aide
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Content Count
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Joined
Posts posted by aide
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newman do a 264 deg cam, as do a company called autosprint from regrinds and blanks.
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you've turned the crank/ pistons and they've hit an extended valve, what i'd do;
- hope valves aren't bent, otherwise strip the head off and check!
- take the cams out and unhook top chain (untighten top tensioner)
- rotate crank to tdc and check the groove on the intermediate gear
- refit cams and top chain with alignment tool
- retension and check timing a few times.
hopefully i havn't missed anything out :)
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my vr subframe doesn't have the vibration block... but then that could be cos my car is crap :lol:
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from what i've read the light comes on below 1 bar, buzzer comes on below .4bar.
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that wouldn't be my definition of the metering head!
if you paid more than a tenner for that plate i'd feel ripped off, metering heads complete with that plate assembly generally go for £20-£30.
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That is probably the most meaningless sentence I have ever read.:lol: i read that 3 times and still didn't get it, and i deal with legal docs a lot!
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added me :)
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i've not seen that before, great wee video :) some great air being made!
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thanks for comments Alex/ Andy, i monitored the oil pressure readings at the weekend and will post them later for the (my!) record. not great reading, at start up the pressure was 2.5bar when it should be 4bar, it then dropped progressively to 1 bar when the light started to flash, it should be 2bar at full temp but it at least settled at 1bar. i then monitored it at 500 rev increments until the cylinder head/ matrix hose split at 3000rpm :lol: new hose is on order!
i'm going to investigate the draw side of the oil pump fist, so car is now on the drive on ramps and i'll be removing the sump later to inspect.
i've read on here the split hose is a symptom of tired engine mounts, so good job the next task is the front subframe...
all good fun :) only downside is it will be at least another couple of months before i get back on the road.
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liking your style mate :)
'went to a bank' :lol:
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yeh sure worth a punt, but i reckon you're a stickler for detail and it'll end up turning into a project!
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well i got the head back on last weekend, turned the key and nothing, bit of investigation found no spark and no power to either the coil or the hall sender. it was getting late so i called it a day last weekend and returned to it mid week, gave the ignition switch a wobble, unplugged and shook the ECU relay :) tested the coil power - again nothing....
back to it the next night, thought i'd check the coil power and bingo i magically had power to the coil, started it up first time... and found an oil leak from the tensioner - bollocks.
so stripped it back down this morning, resealed everything and reassembled it. turned the key and started fine, ran it up to temp, fans kicked in and then the oil light came on - not great :(
now i've no oil leaks, and oil level is bob on, i did put that new dual pole sender in and I'm wondering if its giving a duff reading or i've been given one with a higher low pressure threshold.
still at least its running for first time in 6 months, some progress pics;
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i get these as well :/
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almost everything you need to know is here;
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lovely scenery indeed, defo getting back to scotland again later this year, and that's some 'little drive'!
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mmmmm nice :) welcome along
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hello and welcome along, sounds like you're getting things checked out okay with the to do list is growing :)
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yeh as above, hall sender on way out.
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I'm also interested in how a car currently resident in Dublin seems to be wearing UK plates in all the photos.Could be like a lot of irish drivers who keep their car's registered with relatives in either NI or even GB to save them paying the extortionate road tax.
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wow £400 notes is a great deal, well done for spotting that!
i had the 99mpg issue on a previous valver as well but I never got to the cause of it, wasn't a vacuum pipe in my case.
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/\ yeh agree too, its not our doors opening into other things, its other higher doors opening into us!
another vote for getting them removed :)
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lol, you're like me, I keep a track of everything I spend too, i just don't run the stats, and that's a heftyish yearly spend alright, assume its a daily?
good to see you're keeping it standard ish, looks a good solid car :)
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cheers Alex, was half looking for that filler/ primer stuff but didn't get any in the end, i will for the next set of body repairs though!
found the injector results, well worth getting them refurbed at £60, great service too, sent them monday and had them back by thursday with new O rings and very clean :)
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I take it your head thats pitted is beyond skimming?yeh unfortunately it was too deep, glad i had a spare. bit more progress;
- retaped the engine loom that i could get at
- got myself some 264deg cams
- had my injectors cleaned, dynamic flow tested, results show a 30% increase accross all of them!
- painted the upper and lower manifold, engine plastics and rocker cover.
- got my spare head refurbed and skimmed, with new guides, stem seals, reground valve seats and refaced valves.
Got a bus few days coming up :)
Timing Chains - I think I've f#@*$d it up!
in Engine Bay
Posted
as James says would be easier without removing the cams, make sure you can see the groove on that intermediate chain gear when both the flywheel and pully marks are at TD.