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aide

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Posts posted by aide


  1. so true, i've now started to tackle jobs in one go rather than little ones at a time.

     

    new rear beam mounts = take beam off and renew everything, including brakes

     

    new head gasket = rebuild head

     

    new drop links = drop subframe and renew everything

     

    small job = big job :lol:


  2. righto, so not sorted the low oil pressure problem yet, i took the sump and oil pump off for inspection, checked the pump for backwash but was within tolerance. put a new filter and oil in whilst i was at it, and also fitted a sump plug adaptor and temp sensor.... good to keep an eye on the sump oil temps, but the low pressure issue remains for now.

     

    in addition i've been focussing on sorting rust issues on the underside and sills, i cut out those hexagonal shaped protusions near the jacking points on both sides which were starting to rot, and also around where the front wing bolts onto the sill. i fabbed new sections for all and welded them in. i also repaired jacking damage to sills on both sides, and whilst i was there i addressed some surface rust on the front wings, grinding these spots back to bare metal.

     

    for the rust i've started using a rust converter/ antirust primer called 'vactan' which gets rated highly by the panel van boys, and also a '3M' underbody stoneguard which you can paint on in 2mm layers - well impressed with both products so far.

     

    no photos of the rust treatment as all pretty :sleeping:

     

     

    i also replaced the hose that runs from the head to the TB/ heater matrix with a new OEM one, pricey at £40ish though!

     

    today i started stripping down the front sub frame, had the usual trama's involving grinders and irwin's, but i've now the engine supported and everything bar the steering rack disconnected, hopefully will get the subframe dropped one evening this week, then the rebuild of it begins. that disc in the photo is an old one by the way :lol:

     

    i also bought some half leather front recaro's for £40 which i've dropped off for reupholstering, the leather sections are being repaired where needed (drivers bolster), and the rest will just be plain black recarro material, i'm hoping the guy comes good with a committment to embroid a new recaro badge into both - we shall see 8) i know, i know they're the rover 820 versions - so not one for the purists - but they have adustable lumbar support and my back gets sore when driving :thumbleft:


  3. Even had DG commenting body was good. Then they lifted the car. The underneath just looks like a rust bucket.

     

    so true, mine had minor rust on the arches, rear seam and filler cap when buying - all of which I was happy to sort, but when i went digging underneath I found a handfull more areas to sort, they wouldn't have been apparent to the casual observer.

     

    for the vast majority of us with 20yr old motors dealing with rust is becoming the likelihood not the exception, on this site there is a lot of perfect cars with no rust whatsoever, its really something.

     

    keep looking sure, you'll find something your happy to take on :)


  4. i got a £30 flaring tool from halfords, takes a few practice flares but forms them from copper grand.

     

    once you've done them, put a bit of lacquer on for protection, stops them corroding so quick :)

     

    i'd of a mind to look at them on a case by case basis.


  5. welcome back :)

     

    i've never had a G60 but always wanted one, not many minters left now.

     

    check out the buying guides for both, and good luck!


  6. yeh same there was a lot more play in my exhaust side, but at cold they'll feel more wobbly because the stem of the exhaust valve is something like .02mm thinner to allow for greater expansion.

     

    ref p&p ingfrom what i've heard bigger valves is where the real benefit is, so just figured i'll save for some force feeding instead as big valve heads are serious money :)

     

    vr6 should be twin fan, one motor drive the other belt.

     

    you ought to get one of the mods to relocate this thread into the members gallery, i think they auto delete from this folder if there's inactivity.


  7. as a guide i paid £125 quid to have a head cleaned, skimmed, new valve guides pressed in, valve seats reground and valves refaced. i provided the new valve guides to the engineering shop, they were about £35 for 12.

     

    the dizzy and coil pack heads are the same, just a blanking rubber needed where the distributor shank goes.

     

    you'll never undo the cam gears from the cam in situ, just loosen the cams and untension the top tensioner and unhook the chain that way.

     

    and plenty of us buy projects, good work and keep the faith :)


  8. i hardly bother checking them anymore whereas i did all the time before either. i was also wondering how you're supposed to know that something has sold, or what offers its received - the extra hassle just puts me off looking at them.

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