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  poll250 said:

You can get replacement High Pressure Fuel Line from Halfords if you need it quick. I think the Internal diamter is 7.6mm, and it's about £6.99 per pack. You need 2 packs to do both hoses. VW want c.£70 I think for the same hoses.

yep, halfords even sell it by the metre, works out a bit cheaper.

nice motor mate, good to capture those shocks before they deteriorated further at least. i just painted my manifold and covers black and was wondering what they'd look like - now i know, pretty damn good :)

there's company's that will resilver them, not cheap, but cheaper than new ones.

make sure you send them to someone who can resilver plastic, a lot of companies can only resilver metal.

ok, either get the L shape timing tool, or use two bits of 3mm metal to lock the cams with the groove level with the cylinder head. I foget which lobe is supposed to point directly upwards, do you have a bentley?

not\looking forward to doing my guides etc :/ hope it goes smoothly, have you read the bit about cranking over to pressurise the oil before you start up first time again?

can't you just time them up again once you have the guides etc sorted?

yeh same as, speedlines are good but the cades edge it in those shots, motors looking sharp.

:shades:

crikey that was a momentary shock reading that, good to see you're keeping it!

you can do the rear lines with the beam mounted, i rebuilt mine completely but wanted the rear beam on to make sure the lines didn't foul anything once it was fitted - its a wee bit fiddly but makes one less job.

fair play if you bring this one back from the brink, £300 for an MOT may be a push though!

awesome mate and great skills, fair play for doing that in your garage, looks soooper :)

it might have been a drag doing it yourself, but you know for sure nothings been covered up!

I used a tire lever to lever by newly bushed beam onto the mounts, it didn't require much levering but made me feel that i'd done it right :)

I struggled to get my bushes through, and speaking to a vw mechanic he says a trick of the trade is to slightly grind the leading edge off, it lessens the initial squeeze.

looking clean and sharp those parts, durty corroded stuff bugs me too :) been meaning to get some of that gel, where did you buy it from?

4 branches can be a pain to fit, mine was but it was a TSR 4-2-1, yours looks like a 4-1 and looks shorter so may be easier to thread past the bulkhead.

give it a go yourself sure, make sure you have correct connector plates etc beforehand tho!

i think they can be cleaned ultrasonically, but if they're approaching/ over 100k just buy new ones.

pull each one out in turn and have a look, or do a search for injector spray pattern as davidwort has a how to somewhere.

cheers, am just chipping away at it very s l o w l y.

  SIMONG said:

should there not be a hole in the body work for the lug on the flap to sit into and lock on?

yeh there should be, it could be cut in and i thought about doing it, but in the end i decided not to as i'd just be reintroducing the weak point for rust I had before. not figured how to lock the cap, but i can live with it being unlockable!

good progress Steve, just look for obvious signs of scoring and pits marks on the cams and tappets, there's other stuff you can check if you have a set of feeler guages, or if you can get a lend of a dial guage.

only the fuel metering isn't supposed to be adjusted on the 2l, the idle air can be adjusted by the screw on the throttle body.

yeh as above, i had this on my valver caused by leaky injectors.

great thread Tom, great to see another derv rado being created, especially at light speed lol :salute:

never done this before so thought it worth a crack, stripped the hydraulic lifters and cleaned them, easy but fiddly.

nice, went island hopping round croatia a few years ago, ended up in dubrovnik for a few days at the end. check out the old town quarter at night time, great place to have a few relaxing jars.

haha brilliant, like the idea keep us updated.

Jim i pressed mine in using a length of threaded bar with some washers, really doesn't require much force.

good work mate, refurbed subframe is next on my list.

can't add much more to what's been said before, maybe another WOW!

yeh i'll get the machine shop to check it out, there was no weeping marks through it but thought it might only be shallow and it could get worse when fitted. if it checks out okay I'll smooth it off.

thought i had two junk heads there for a few hours!