aide

yes you should, be prepared for hard graft and for shelling out cash tho

your new so should read the tonne of threads on this forum, use the search function :)

I'd love to mate but where do you stop.

dead right, my new project is the 'CCC' .... credit crunch corrado :dorky:

hey arnau my apologies with the PM's and stuff I didn't realise you were spanish :brickwall: your english is good!

liking the car and particulalry the dual exhaust, looks really well :D

aye carbs would be nice but am using kjet from another marque :cuckoo: but modifying the inlet shorter to stop it being a massive heatsoak, basically i don't want to fork out for the standalone :D

sounds nasty :shock:

just remembered i was supposed to send you a mail too, i'll get on it now

anythings possible :) am thinking of nos myself, dig the idea of having a big lairy red fire button

they come in different size kits depending on the 'shot' ur looking for, injectors get wired into the manifold as shown on link below.... you want to be certain your engine is capable of dealing with the additional load tho

http://nitrous-advice.org/vw-2-0l-16v-d ... 37892.html

'this takes me to think that fuel accumulator is OK?' - the accumulator maintains pressure when the pump isn't running, if ur starting from cold after long periods then this will be fine.

unfortuantely there's so many variables in kjet system it's difficult to diagnose from afar, my view;

possible 1. as you noted 'it might be a WUR malfunction when it is hot' - hot block means hot wur = higher control pressure = leaner mixture so a possibility especally when combined with an iffy under fueling injector as already suggested, but the WUR rarely goes wrong.

possible 2. your thermotime switch is buggered, this means when hot the cold start valve will still operate = over fueling, combined with an over fueling injector means one cylinder will be running too rich to combust. the thermotime only runs for 8-15secs (temp/ time is written on side of it) so this seems a bit too coinciental. To test simply disconect the blue connector when starting from warm.

do the injector test as suggested, new ones are cheapish - £20 iirc

really would recommend a book called 'how to tune & modify bosch fuel injection' it's got a description of a fuel pressure guage, but it's only a 100psi guage on a T shaped junction

bottom end of T = guage

left of T = length of fuel pipe

right of T = male fuel pipe connector

assuming you can't patch the hole up, and if ur wallets up for it you could go for a four branch manifold and then a full system aftermarket exhaust, not cheap 4 branch is 150-200 and aftermarket systems are geetting on for 300 iirc

on my last valver i had a 'miltek' system chose it as they aren't as loud as some some of the others, but that was my preference, like david have heard jetex are good also. if you do go aftermaret there is a good thread on here about selections and peoples comments

hehe good effort, why don't you just get the whole block and tranny blinged up also :D and whilst your at it you may as well get the block overbored and some bigger pistons too

as already said really depends what you want, everyone seems to be swapping for the 1.8t or the 24v at the moment or charging their existing lumps, me i'm going old skool with an overbored high compression 16 valve screamer with some custom built parts :D not too pricey and keeping it standard ish

the choices are a plenty, so good luck whatever you do

nice one, good to get it sorted i bet, but why had it burnt out!!!

well keep us posted as i'd be interested to know if he can do anything as i'm building a high comp 2.1ltr 16v with kjet turbo stuff selected from other vehicles.... i have that sig for a reason :D

diificult to explain simply, you'll need to do a search for the 'wur mod' on here you should find a few links, you simply drill a hole in the back of the wur and adjust a screw on the wur (warm up regulator) to lower the control pressure and hence allow better fueling across the rev range

can send the relevant pressures but not to hand at the minute, if you don't find then let me know

oh yeh - you'll need to fab yourself a fuel pressure dial .... maybe it's not so simple after all!

arnau is right the KR ecu cannot be chipped in the usual sense as the ignition timing is hard wired. however, there is a piggy back' system that was used back in the day to allow what was a 4* motor to run on the lower ron unleaded available in the early nineties.

the piggy back chip was called kstar, iirc it basically clipped inbetween the ecu and that heat sink plate, altering the timing slightly and allowing the cold start injector to operate at higher revs, i think you could put basic maps on them too

i had an 89 1.8v valver with a K&N and the kstar and it was mapped at 155bhp which was pretty staggering at the time, they still appear on ebay now and again

if ur willing to learn and experiment with the kjet system there's a few tricks that can be done :D

had a similar problem years ago, checked everything and it ended up being a faulty relay / connection onto relay box

i'd check there all stuck in properly

am a bit rusty on valver set up, been a few years :D

if the co2 is ok at idle then it must only be running rich off idle, the mixture screw is located within the metreing head, you'll see a small access plug at the front which can be removed to adjust the screw beneath *carefully* with an allen key but this seems ok in your case

i wouldn't put too much stock in the mpg reading we're talking 20 year old technology here, are you sure your actually filling up more? :D

there's really not much to go wrong with valver fuel supply and it seems you have most the bases covered, defo worth doing the spray pattern tests suggested by david

the only other thing i can think of is the the warm up regulator, on start up this reduces the control pressure in the metering head thereby allowing more fuel to pass to the injectors..... these can be purposely adjusted for a mild power gain, yours may be completely foobarred :scratch:

mate cant be certain but i thought the vr6 fan was different, no part numbers here am afraid, gsf could sort you out easily enough

what can certain about is fitting, not easy access but a doddle technically

just picked my jaw off the floor this is brilliant work

loving your understatement, after seeing that stack of metal i didn't expect to see ur motor upside down - brilliant! :D

no pics of mine, but as beavis said i stuck it on top of the slam panel where there is two holes already cut, mine was about an inch from the rad so it benefited from air being drawn by the fan :D took a couple of hours max

if your using a thermostatic plate make sure you get it the right way round - i didn't frst time :D brilliant job tho, immediate 20deg drop on my old vr

johny, cant really tell from ur post but you're probably looking at one of the temp senders, but if that's bust then you'd be getting no temp reading at all :D you can test the current acrross them to check if their working, forget the resistance tho, can find if you need

if you think the thermostat beneath the pumps is stuck then confirm by checking the bottom radiatior pipe as you warm the engine up

low risk minor thing, remember to undo and redo the cam bolts progressively so the valve springs don't cause the cam to bend as you remove, they're not so good at bending :)

post resurector :D

andy, all top notch advice above

also, if you want a mild gain on a kr then the kr exhaust cam can be used as an inlet, iirc has slightly better duration and defo improved my mid range torque on my last valver. basically you get a spare kr exhaust cam, chop the end that goes to the dizzy, and whack it in... ok that's simplified a bit, i have a guide which i can send by email if you pm me

you can then flip your old kr inlet onto someone with a 2l - so cost neutral

['H3R4POR]

found to my dismay that you only get the money back if you or the buyer of your car use them for financing.

...and the buyers don't exist :x

ok cheers for the mega quick replies!

....am definitely going to have some fun with this guy, string him along for a few weeks and then call him a gullible feck for believing i was still interested in his scam :)

have just been given an offer of a car i can't refuse and as such have to sell the vr - after only seven months :(

stuck it on autotrader and i've been receiving phone calls from an outfit cardata.co.uk, they basically say they have buyers for my car in Belfast, but that in order to register and for car data to arrange viewings i need to pay them £99 which is refunded if the purchasers go through with the deal and arranges finance, spookily enough car data are also credit brokers.... that's how they make their money apparently.

it sounds half credible, but i'm concious they'll run with £99 and forget about the selling part or refund - he's giving it the hard sell, is he trying to pull my pants down :!: :?:

have done search on here and internet with no adverse results - anyone any ideas?!

cheers :D

kjet does not have that solenoid

What solenoid?!

considering i don't know the motronic....