aide

what do you mean will it fit through my bulk head?! :scratch:

they're designed to take the same route the standard down pipe does...

yeh easy enough as noted above, remove the nut (which may turn shaft thing also) and it slides off

you'll obviously have to drain down coolant and oil!

as above traditionally ceramic for exhaust and powder coating for the inlet

i have thought about ceramically coating/ insulating the inlet to try and keep the inlet temps down, however you'd have to stop conduction between head and manifold - otherwise the ceramic/ insulation would heat the charge up :scratch: haven't done enough research to decide myself yet, be interested to know if ur proposing this tho

if its part of the dizzy then its the hall sender, a faulty one will definitely cause running issues, you'll need to get a new one but maybe you can tape it together in the meantime

where's the black connector mate, round the coil or round the dizzy?

mine was a mocal one, i *think* i used the large seal of the oil filter between two faces - long time ago and car has gone now :( i definitely fitted the wrong way round as i took it for a blast and was rather dissapointed

did you use the longer internal pipe that came with the filter?

wouldn't think swapping pipes would make much difference, does sound like there is no or limited oil moving through the cooler tho

when i first fitted on my old vr i got the thermostatic sandwhich plate the wrong way round - don't ask me which way it's supposed to go though :D did you read the static thread above

when i switched round the right way my temps dropped from about 115deg to 95degs

it's exactly the same principle, by the time you've switched your foot from the accellator to the brake the thottle has closed and a vacuum has been created in the plenum :D

£100 seems like a fairly good price to me

cost me £140 to get an engine palleted from birmingham

my theory on why it was running poorly is that when that plug was removed you'd have been sucking air through the engine block rather than through the metering head - hence limited fuel/ stuttering :D

there may be peeps willing to swap the other way as i've gone 16v - 16v - vr6 and am now going back to 16v.... but then maybe that's cos i'm old skooooolll :dorky:

test drive - see what u think

i forget the name but that lump of metal sits on top of the oil pump drive which itself is driven from the intermediate shaft, the cogs you see is the change in direction... tbh honest i don't know what would happen if that metal thing wasn't on when the engine was turning over??

aye cheers veedubbed, have borrowed an old sawn oil drive to get the outer bearing in and found a shop to do the inner bearing, they're going to make a mandrel up for it :salute:

not the sort of thing you wanna discover needs changing when the engines back in the motor :D

yeh was relieved it could be sorted, the guy who welded it didn't seem surprised to do it at all - made me feel better, or maybe everyone over here are misers who don't want to shell out dosh for new stuff :D

meant to say, i used a sierra exhaust bush which allowed a certain amount of play between the four branch and exhaust flange plates

yeh i think dave has a point, i never fitted my solid front mount and never had any issues

i had the same four branch in my old valver but it was a good distance away from any cables, is there no slack to create a gap?

if you can't divert then suppose exhaust wrap is a solution, not too pricey either

it'll make a big difference and everyones doing it

try the static threads listed at top of engine bay and do a search - loads info

got block back today from engine shop, welded and skimmed as photo, just gotta grind the opening to it's original shape and jobs a good un :D

got the bearings sorted. for future search reference you can get em from Federal-Mogul AE UK, part nr is AEC2007 UNB

just gotta find someone loal to press em in :scratch:

One question, how the hell have you afforded all this aged only 16?!

he's winding us up :lol:

looks brilliant btw :notworthy:

unless am very much mistaken a diconnected lambda would make it run rich, get it connected asap

ur correct except last bit

- on warm up additonal air is allowed via the auxhillary air valve, as previous page, gray thing between filter and TB

- TB lets air in via idle screw

- the ISV flattens out engine hunting

dunno mate, only got an engine in the garage at the minute :D

found Idle Adjustment guide

• Run to normal operating temperature (all electrical inc fan off)

• Disconnect crankcase breather

• Disconnect red/ black wire spade connector at coil

• Adjust idle to 1000?50rpm

yeh, maybe worth a try to reset, the procedure is in haynes, you have to disconnect the connector near the coil, black and red ones i think, do a search - as am only just getting back into valvers myself

i was interested to know which pipes you'd replaced for that reason, but the flow/ return recircs quickly so doubt would be an issue.

you've covered the bases by checking leaks and the connectors are all correct, to diagnose further you need to start checking pressures and individual components... gets pretty involved :?