aide
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Joined
Posts posted by aide
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progressively undo the cam retainers - so the cams are not put under any bending stress, lift the cams out so you have access to the hydraulic tappets beneath, this means you'll have to remove the timing chain and cam sprocket - check cams for obvious defects
you'll need to lift the tappets out, this may be difficult as they'll be covered in oil and slippy, if you have a little suction cup this will do well or use monkey spanners with cloth wrapped round the jaws - don't scratch the tappetts also number or order the tapetts so you use the same tappetts in the same groove when rebuilding
inspect the hydraulic tappets for obvious defects, particularly underneath. check you can see two valve colletts which hold the valve spring retainers (saucer shape things) in place on the valve stem, they should be in the center of the saucer. with the cams removed the valve spring retainers should all be at the same height - if one is higher then you know which valve head has fallen off!
if you can't see anything obviously wrong then you'll need to remove the head, you'll need the right spline key to do this - post back on here sure and we'll talk you through it
it's late so i may have missed stuff, sure guys will be along to correct me :D
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i have a complete throttle body & potentiometer of a 9a which i won't be needing if you get stuck.
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the best one i ever had was "hey that's the car from the back to the future isn't it?"..... errrrr no it's not a DeLorean :nuts:
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think it would be impossible to say without knowing for certain what is wrong, it's either going to involve whipping the head off fixing and/ or replacing, but if the valve has fallen into the block then it could get a lot more complicated :(
if ur mate has that abf sat there doing nothing then you really should take the opportunity to do something with it imo
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ahh right, that's the reason, a lot of times I'd question this stuff without really thinking about the consequences from a practical 'what if' persepctive
suppose you have to change your hub at some point then!
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Shouldn't really need the caliper tool if you're doing the fronts as they'll start off not being connected to the brake lines and with no pressure in them!!!do'h am not thinking - good point well made :lol:
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i thought it was still 'good practice'i'm wrong - just checked the oracle that is haynes - no suggestion that either retaining screw or caliper carrier bolts should be replaced
weird how different marques have different rules - had to change both when i did my MB estate discs last month.
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yeh mate i realise that!!!!! i thought it was still 'good practice'
admittedly its 3 yrs since i changed my valver callipes but am fairly certain is used a rewind tool - could be wrong
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you could always just swap the head over....
things can getreally complex - the abf revs better cos it is a taller block, but the longer rod (159 v 144mm) means it is marginally slower to develop this powere as it has to turn the crank through a larger circle initially but this does provide better power... on the other hand the 9a has the highest standard compression ratio of them alll... but then the cyliner head ports are diferent in them all promoting different charcteristics tooooo arrgrgrgrhrhrhrhhrhrhrh my head hurts :D
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as the guys have said the abf block and head is a straight swap, it's also a taller block with longer stroke so it develops slower but better power, whether you want it or not :D
cos it's a taller block i read somewhere you can get hood clearance issues in the rado tho - but never done it myself so couldn't be certain :scratch:
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some back breaking job but looks brilliant :salute:
wonder if it makes it fly quicker :scratch:
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are you supposed to replace the disc retaining screw also :D
piston rewind tool handy if you havn't got one
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there's a set up on ebay a the minute too
guy reckoned he was pushing 212bhp, had a lot of other stuff too tho
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like this car a lot :grin:
maybe you should take the bonnet off completely and get to work with it on the deck or someat - your back will be killing when you do the low bit of the middle panel!!
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if the engine is cranking over then the starter motor is clearly okay.... please tell me the car is cranking over???!
if you push it down the nearest hill you'll be finding yourself having a long push back uphill imo...
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fiat 500 - pretty cool imo :dorky:
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it's difficult to diagnose of a forum :( and not much comfort but there's a lot than can go wrong, but in that you have air, fuel and spark and only drove it earlier you should at least be getting something - sounds like ur getting nothing at all, and that considered i wouldn't bother pulling the injectors
the woodruff key on the cam cog has been known to shear in valvers knocking the timing way out, that's why you should check the timing
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you might smell fuel but are you sure the injectors are spraying when you crank the car - you'll need to pull them to be sure
sometimes with valvers it's just a case of cranking & crnking & cranking if it's been stood for a while
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if you have a strong spark then your earths are probably ok, but as anton says always worthwhile making them better, welding wire is just thicker/ better conducting stuff
vacuum pipes - basicaly check ur whole bay for loose or disconnected rubber/ plastic pipes especially round the manifold, throttle body and air box inlet pipework
have you checked your timing?
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yeh no homage at all there, seems there just cashing in the brand rather than emulating
not bad looking tho
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no problem that's what the forums all about :D
manifolds in a nutshel;
40mm came with the 1.8 kr, it's smaller diameter promotes gas speed and therefore torque in the smaller capacity engine.
the 52mm came with the 2.0 abf and 9a, as they had larger capacity they could open the inlet up to get more top end.
gas flowing will help, but fitting the 52mm to a 1.8 will cost you low end torque but gain you top end :salute:
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oh right that was clear then :) it will fit exactly the same, iirc the 9a and kr are 220mm
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if you want a cooler inlet manifold see if you can get a phelonic (sp?) insulator gasket. i have one on my golf 16v and there is a big difference to how hot the inlet gets nownice one :D didn't know those existed
Advice Needed
in General Car Chat
Posted
definitely don't scrap - its beginning to annoy me seeing so many getting broken :mad2:
i'm in the market for a 16v in the NW of england, and am not really fussy about the condition so long as I can drive it home to belfast - does it drive? any pictures?