aide

there's so many variables in the kr 16v fueling that it's hard to suggest things without being under the bonnet :D

you've definitely got extra air getting in somewhere, did you do an idle reset and adjust your idle when you transferred the engine over?

beyond the above I'd be making guesses about your control pressure being too low, or you introduced an air pocket which is allowing the air plate to rise more than it should

auxhillary air valve is between the filter and the TB

ISV's can get stuck, try cleaning it with carb cleaner or similar, also make sure the micro switch on the TB is activating the ISV, it should buzz when working

don't know the 9a as well, but on a KR that valve allows air to bypass the throttle body for 5 mins whilst the car warms up before an electrc bitemallic plate shuts the hole, if this is bust then it will idle at about 2k

simple way to check is to to take it off and bung it in the freezer for 15mins - you should be able to see through the hole, stick back on the car and start and within five mins the hole should be shut

what 16v is it kr or the 9a?

and which fuel line did you replace?

Thats a good point, would defo make sense to take out the "easy" bits, but i think im scared in case i screw something else up

just take your time, do a wee sketch of the bits you remove and lable connectors up so you know what goes where.

sooner you start getting your hands dirty the better :D

i bought em off here as a set for £40, but i only want the exhaust so £20 for the inlet, probably be £10 posted to scotland as they need to be packed well - £30 its yours :D

decat pipe for a 2ltr?

kr has higher lift, so yeh you'll notice a difference defo;

9a inlet cam 8.9mm lift

kr inlet cam 9.6mm lift

i have a spare KR inlet if you want to buy :D

that lot should do you good for a while, gives some peace of mind too.

really getting tempted by a white rados now

your oil cooler is cooled by water mate, so a rusted cooler means the water is likely leaking at that point - mayo on the dipstick is a sure sign :D they're cheap tho and a plenty 2nd hand, i have one in the garage of a 2ltr if you need

nice wheels btw 8)

no advice - loving that sound tho, defo do it :D

ok thanks Dave

where did you get ur copy of ETKA? i stupidly sold mine when i sold my last valver

just tried to order the inner and outer bearings which sit in the block for the intermediate oil shaft drive, but local VW dealer says they're not indicated separately, but that they *might* come with complete new shaft

anyone ordered/ replaced these before on their valvers, got a part nr, or do i have to go to a specialist bearing place? mine are decaying badly...

cheers

time, effort, busted nuckles and an obsessive personality :D

you can simply jet wash, but can put loads of water in the electrical connections, wont get it shiny either

the best way is to strip it out completely! failing that do it bit by bit, a couple of sizes of wire brushes, some solvent based cleaner for metal bits, soapy water for plastic and rubber bits

if your doing it in the bay then be prepared for a bad back :(

you can always go piper or kent cams, but then maybe become a bit peaky

nice project and good effort btw, prepping something similar myself :D

i've never noticed they were higher at the back, an optical illusion perhaps!?

when fitting new shocks i've always levelled them the same to all arches anyway

brief update. took it too machine shop, guy referred me to specialist welder who i've just left it with, says it will be no problem to clean it and build it back up - does it a lot on subaru's apparently - will cost £20 to fix!

machine shop will then plane block surface to absolute minimum, bore out by a mil, hone and replace intermediate shaft bearings for £109 quid :D

sounds like a stuck thermostat, check the bottom pipe to the radiator gets warm as the engine does, if not then replace thermostat on bottom of water pump, they're cheapish

oh, and check your water level is fine, it sounds like it may be low

welcome to C ownership :D

as stated above ur temps seem fine, defo check the oil tho. on older cars the mfa's generally indicate 99mpg so your doing well to get a reading at all - they're not that accurate at best tho.

you will get issues, but there's a wealth of expertise round this place that can help you out, but the sooner you start getting ur hands dirty the better :D best of luck with it

spoke to an engine shop locally and will be dropping it in next week, he says it's possible to weld, grind and then skim it flat.... but will need to see it to be sure, plus a skim will bring the compression higher without using a special gasket!

will post back once i have decision in case others have this issue

frig! complete engine was 300 plus 150 pallet to Belfast so they're not cheap, nor easy to come by, especially over here in NI!

the ring you can see is the actual cylinder bore so it's corroded to that point and stopped, the bore also bells towards the block surface before thinning down again for the rest of the bore, maybe that photo makes it looks worse than it is!

defo don't want to throw time/ money for it to fail, i'll get it the shop and see what they say, cheers

Hi, fairly simple one i hope!

Just dismantled a 9a engine which i intend to rebuild as a fairly high spec valver, 11-12:1 compression ration, uprated head springs etc.... thing is one of the water channells seems to be eating away towards one cylinder! It's thinnest at the block surface and then tapers away, see pic, at thinnest the wall is maybe just over 3mm BUT i intend to overbore by 1mm so the wall would maybe be down to 2.5mm :scratch:

I'm guessing this will still be ok, but looking for confirmation?

If not, can an engine shop do anything about it?

Cheers

for the swap you'll need the following (from memory) 3 gaskets - one between TB and mani, one between upper and lower section, one between lower mani and head. Heavily recomend you get new plastic injector housing which press through/ into the bottom of the brass injector cups, they get brittle and break very easy. You may also need the brass injector cups, but you may be able to reuse you're old ones, you'll need a larg hex/ allan key to undo. The injectors can also be a bugger to pull out, there's a special tool for pulling them, I always found they're easier to pull when warm. Seeings as you're pulling the injectors you'll need new o rings, ones a big fat green thing the other is a small one. None of this stuff is expensive but you want to make sure you have the right stuff before getting started. All connecting parts are exactly the same. Don't forget to recoonect the brake servo hose :D

Make sure you're careful with the injector pipework.

Thats about all i can remeber :scratch:

the thermotime switch allows the cold start valve to run for a preset time when engine is below a preset temp, on a standad valver it's the only thing that allows the cold start valve to work... besides the current that is.

i'd be double checking the thermotime and the isv, and then checking the pressures on the whole system including the wur raised above, if its a 2nd metering head then the system pressure could be way out.

don't rule out overfueling (leaky injector) causing starting problems either.

not really certain what the problem is! is your ISV nt working?

the isv only operates when the micro switch on the throttle body is depressed, i've never forced one to work off the motor, they do buzz when operating however so this would suggest a rapid opening/ closing.