aide

nice work, with all these lovely vr's about am questionning my own plans :scratch:

couldn't help but notice you may be seeling ur valver... please let me know if so - am serious :D

yeh lovely motor, all time VW classic

my dad gave my sister a bronze metallic mk 1 as her first car about 20 yrs ago as a run about, gorgous car, perfect condition with chrome bits all over it -a really classy motor....

she left it rotting in a car park in london, hardly ever drove until eventually it started to rot :( lucklily my dad rescued it restored it and sold it on, i never forgave her for it!

had a mkII GTII myself but always pined after the one she had :D

i'd be happy to stick some in the post if you can't find any locally there, it's a halfords own brand

just with a brush, it's a fairly watery paint so dries with no brush strokes

lose the windows.... :D

...but maybe better to replace them with perspex jobs

just used some high temperature paint from a motor store locally (halfords) tin of paint didn't say you had to prime, took a llllllloooooooooonnnnnnngggg time getting all the dirt out the nooks and cranny's though :D

totaly cleaned the block at the weekend and painted it matt black, and started to clean and gasflow the manifolds hope to get them finished and piccy's posted in a few weeks... :D

the flywheel has a mark on it which is tdc, you can see this by removing a plug on the bell housing. there is also a tdc mark on the crank vibration damper at the other belts end of the block, both are at tdc when at 12 oclock usually marked with a little arrow/ V shape.

the cambelt wheel has a mark at 12 oclock on the front and at 3 oclock on the rear, theses need to be lind up to mark on cambelt cover V and to the level of cylinder head when cover is off.

the cams have two circles which need to be facing each other level with the cylinder head.

check it, check em and check em again :D

yeh man that bay looks really good, worth the effort for sure

man, you did well to hold it together and get urself to safety :salute:

hope it's not too much hassle to get it sorted

the engine blocks are identical besides cc's, the management is not, the 9a management has much better emission control.

i hate to be down in the mouth about this, but this is the first time i've ever heard of anyone swapping a 2ltr for a 1.8ltr which is a straight up loss of power even when offset by the mods you have, i'd really want to speak to the person who told you otherwise if i was you :shock: i can only think people were assuming you were doing it the other way round

hopefully someone who knows the 9a can advise what your best options are :(

emission controls were made stricter in the early 90's when four star fuel was discontinued, this required later cars to come with better management (KE Jet) and catalytic converters...... these factors led to a substantial loss of power in the 16v - which VW offset by puting the 2ltr in.

my guess is your tuned 1.8 is being restricted by the engine management which is detecting wild emission readings to what they should be.

i don't know the 2ltr well enuff myself, maybe you can take the cat out, maybe you can use KJet as per the donor car which may sort the problem.... until MOT time.

just so am clear here, you replaced a 2lt with an upgraded 1.8?

the gains normally run the other swap/way round, you'll be fighting against the cat and management/ lambda if ur still on kE Jet

what you gonna do at mot time?!

that's great news you've found the problem :) good effort you being willing to get stuck in too

steve - sonds like a timing issue from the new dizzy, would recheck there first

the isv only regulates the idle when the throttle is closed

wouldn't it be better to leave the majority of the engine alone

cheers for comments and you're right, its just a matter of what i'm prepared to spend in one go - which i'd prefer to be a little at a time, this set up will cost me a couple of grand to do properly by myself whereas a proper boost would be at least twice that especally as i've always preferred the supercharged (lysholm) route so the four branch could remain, i also like the look of the 16v and although the inlet is a massive heat soak i'm trying to remedy that so it could be used with mild boost also

bottom line is its long term project, like i intend to keep the car for ever :D may be more expensive in the long run but i hopefully won't feel as guilty about doing it :D

loads mate - try the search for full info, as heads up piper and kent do 16v cams but they can be really peaky, you can also modify a kr/ 9a exhaust cam as an inlet which gives better lift/ duration

right, despite hanging around here for years i've never actually started my own thread on any of the 16v's or the VR i've had - all of which are sadly long gone now, and as i didn't have access to a garage i've been forced to daydream only in recent years.......but that's all changed now :D

i haven't actually got my car yet but am on the lokout, so am only building the engine at present - so, this thread may be a bit boring to begin with :(

my proect day dreams were always to boost a 16v, but various things have put paid to that - credit crunch, wedding, other hobbies and to be honest i'm probably not capable of building that sort of motor at this stage, so plan is to completely rebuild a 16v aiming for good 16v power and then to save up money/ knowledge for the boost conversion in a few years with the base engine (exc compression!) already well built to handle it.

the plan is therefore fairly old skool at the moment :dorky:

- overbored and skimmed 9a 16v from 82.5mm to 83mm so into the 2ltr+cc territory

- using forged 12.3:1 high compression pistons

- kjet metering head from another marque/ model (to be revealed) capable of delivering more fuel as standard

- custom air box to throttle body inlet pipework

- gas flowed throttle body and 52mm inlet manifold

- mildly ported and polished 9a cylinder head

- rebuilt cylinder head using shorter valve guides, uprated springs and followers for higher revving

- modified exhaust cam as an inlet, with adjustable cam sprocket which will give higher lift

- four branch manifold

- knife edged crank and a *slightly* lightened flywheel

- am giving some consideration to a 30bhp shot of NOS too

- + all critical bits will be replaced - water pump, alternator, dizzy, leads etc

as i'll be increasing compression i'll be insulating the inlet pipework and underside of the manifold, and using a phelonic spacer and some home made air flow bonnet mods to keep the inlet temps as low as possible for a na motor...

not much point talking about the external/ internals yet suffice to say it will be lowered on coilies, arches rolled, debadged and detrimmed and anything that doesn't need to be inside will be replaced or stripped for lightness :D

so progress so far;

ah man gutted for you :( be sure to push the insurance company as far as you can do

i got mine marked as category C when someone drove into the door and back end, got an ok settlement, kept the car, fixed the damage and actually made £500, hopefully your works out ok too

all good advice from wullie there :salute: and don't be afraid to be forcefull with the block :D

you can get valve spring compressors from halfords, you need the larger one for the deeper valve recesses.... hopefully your problem will be there, if not next stop will be the crank bearings/ shells imo!

yeh cams removal is as i described above, the retainers are numbered and have to go back in their correct position

the cam belt is loosened by undoing the tensioner - this is a disc which is fixed internally but has an outer shell that spins just below and to the right of the cam gear which runs the back of the cam belt, mark the position somehow before you undue so you know for when repositioning when ur sorted

the chains just loops out when the cams are undone

nah they don't do a corrado one specifically, but the mkII golf 16v is exactly the same engine - it's a red one 'VW Golf & Jetta' 1984 - 1992

in the meantime you may find this link helpfull, it's for a mkIII and mostly in german but a lot of common parts/ layouts http://www.vwmotorsport.com/vwcat/Golf3Katalog.pdf

just looking at my intermediate shaft skew gears today wondering whether they're worn or not - pity those scans aren't in colour :D

actually it wouldn't be a bad idea to move everything to line with top dead centre asumng everything is still together, just put a socket on the crank nut and turn the engine until the timing mark on the cam sprocket is at the top and the two 'o' shapes on the cams should be facing each other level with the cylinder head

haynes has all ths info btw, mybe worthwhile getting yourself sorted for the £15 or so

let us know how you get on

james - no mot/ tax doesn't mean it doesn't drive (trade plates) :wink: and i didn't say there was anything wrong with breaking, I just don't like seeing so many getting broken :( if the rack and box can be fixed then that's one more still on the road!