VW_OwneR_85

yea same here with silicone grease, make sure the sealing surface on the block is clean and smooth and rust free, if its not then smooth it out with sand paper,

had similar problem last year where the pedal would randomly stay down , it was the master cylinder, probably best to renew the slave and master at the same time along with that hose if its looking past it, if them parts haven't been replaced before then its only a matter of time , 20 years or so is a long time,

all good info ^, you might find you have a lot of small scratchs from over the years from poor cleaning and general age which will need machine polishing out usng compounds, the clear coat on a car is harder then you think and doing it by hand with some products wont necessarily remove them but might give the illusion that you have, as the scratchs get filled by these products , wont be long before its looking its age again,

 

if you do decide to buy a machine polisher and compounds etc then be warned you can cause a serious amount of harm in seconds!!, as my friend rick found out when he buffed through the clear coat and colour coat down to primer on his bonnet! look on you tube for tips and advice, but basically stay the hell away from the edges and anywhere that forms a corner or almost like a corner, keep it flat and apply firm pressure otherwise you wont get anywhere and mask off any trims or areas you don't want compound in as it can be a bitch to clean off

I brought them through demon tweaks but just had a quick look and they don't do them anymore , it seems like weitec themselves now distribute there own products in the uk, hicon gt are the ones, http://www.weitec-suspension.co.uk/coilover-kits.php

theres no definitive answer im afraid, I brought weitec coilys a few years ago for like £350-£400 been great, cant fault them, not the cheapest but certainly not the most expensive, I guess all depends on how much your prepared to spend on suspension,

probably best to go through the owners manual as all the info for the dash symbols and colours will be there, that's if she still has the owners manual..

awesome! in regards to wanting your brakelines black, I had a thought awhile back about using heat shrink tube {for wiring} on them , slide it over the tube before making any bends, flares etc , they come in long enough lengths and cheap too! just not sure how they would handle the bends/curves..http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Various-Sizes-Lengths-Black-Heat-Shrink-Tube-Sleeving-Car-Wire-Wrap-Heatshrink-/191533541892?var=&hash=item2c9849ea04:m:mrLVsIX5y6iQsLg2CcUSbTg

master cylinder seals may have failed from bleeding when the pump was replaced, bleeding an old system can have negative effects on old seals, you got to think that most of these parts are pretty damn old now {24 years?!}, I had to replace my clutch master cylinder last year after I replaced the flexy hose on the gearbox as it kept randomly staying down if I stayed on it for a short amount of time,

 

also someone mentioned black brake fluid earlier , I was under the impression that blackness was because of wear from rubber parts seals flexys etc etc?, I remember when my friend brought a mk1 golf and did his brakes with new pads and fluid, his fluid was black!! immediately thought of rubber seals, his brakes were fine though,

idd check for leaks around any of the brake pipes, if your not loosing any fluid and you don't find any leaks and you have bled it with new fluid then check out the master cylinder , don't think theres any easy way to test them

Anyone got any advice on how to sort the rust on the boot?

 

mechanically remove all rust with a dremel or similar tool using grinding/cutting wheel, then apply an epoxy primer {either brushed on or sprayed} then to a bodyshop to finish off, if the rust is leaving the metal to thin with small pits or discoloured which grinding cant remove then it needs cutting out and new metal welded in, don't f-about with rust , no amount of rust convertor or rust paint etc actually does anything for the long term unless its all been ground out or cut out! belive me , been there done that, wasted my time and money in doing it again!...

 

something like this is fine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPRAYMAX-2K-EPOXY-PRIMER-FILLER-BLACK-400ML-AEROSOL-SPRAY-2680034-/252349622711?hash=item3ac135a9b7:g:zFYAAOSwq19XCO5x

thinking about doing my headliner in the same as you done , where did you get it from

ebay, theres quite a few sellers on there, normally sell it by the meter, the areas around the sun visor can be tricky , I used an adhesive called mitre bond that's like super glue but much better , be careful to set it right before it goes off, allows you to get it into shape without it springing back 10mins later.. p.s I didn't use a foam liner , just got my headliner really clean and smoothed out any lumps from the adhesive..

feel your pain also, only the other day I had my golf parked up in a public carpark for the day , came back and as I was further down the road I noticed my L/H wing mirror was pushed forward and the casing was unclipped/broken, basically some one had parked next to me and as they opened there door the wind took it smacking the **** out of my mirror! I guess im lucky they weren't a few inches closer other wise my door would of have been severely dented! and you know they wouldn't of left any details , there was a car parked next to mine as I left but couldn't see any paint or clues as to what car hit it so kinda pointless especially as I was firkin raging!!... mystic blue's spot on , too many people don't care about driving and there car otherwise they would be just as protective

if you did want to replace the pins, its a door off job and you use a ball joint splitter to press the pins out, it takes a lot of force , got pics in my thread in members gallery , early on page 3? , threads called "my vr6 tt seats" {I think} , its not that bad of a job tbh as long as you got a shed/garage, a table with cushions or something to lay the door on and a 2nd pair of hands is also helpful when removing/fitting the door back...

cant comment on the new one but iv got the original miltek with decat, was the best money spent for what I gained out of it, really made a difference in throttle response, smoothness and sounded awesome!! , the exhaust that came with mine though was a bag of ****e though so a decent exhaust does make a difference , and this newer version is better?

I did mine awhile back with faux black leather along with the sun roof panel and dyed the sun roof seal black aswell , looks awesome!, from the prep side of things I didn't want to go through all the hard work and time for it to start peeling off a few months later so I ripped off the old liner along with the foam which was disintegrating anyway and started from the ground up which I think is the best way to go, obviously up to you how you approach it but doing things twice really sucks!

agree with above, seek advice from a bodyshop before buying anything, your be surprised with the metal work some people can do with the right tools...

i don't know if this helps anyone but after filling my system with the wrong fluid I had to change pumps and went with the one off the mk4 golf v6 4motion {as I had it laying around from the engine swap} , its clearly a bit different in terms of the body but connections are the same and on euro car parts the 4motions pump has the same part number as the corrado vr6's! {same pressure as well}, its been great! if you want a 2nd hand pump then one from the v6 4motion will be ideal, plenty about and newer...

p.s totally forgot to mention , if you have red steering fluid then stick with the exact same part number pump that you got, if its green then you can go mk4 pump as they also run green, I did have red originally but flushed it out for green as that is what I was led to belive was right but its not!! the result is it whines once the steerings warmed up due the fluid being way thinner then the red stuff, so fitted the mk4 pump to get myself out of that problem

you could try making a bath of cheap brake fluid and leave the handles to soak for a day or two,

imo all depends on how much its going to cost to put the body right and if your prepared to pay that, obviously mechanics for you isn't a problem, prices on vr6's at the moment seem to be on the up from 2k up to 5k depending on condition , if its going to cost 2k to sort out the the body and you can get it for £600 and then another £500 on servicing items etc then it probably will be worth it ...

fyi im not n electrical expert, I don't think that wire has anything to do with your battery drain as you need the circuit to be complete for it to be drawing current and the fact its not connected/complete means it wouldn't be draining , iv recently learnt how to check for battery drains tho and its pretty easy to do, you need multi meter which you can get for as little as £10.00 theres not much to it, just youtube or google "how to check for battery drain" If your interested in diy, with that wire does it look like its been cut/snipped or broke off? pull the battery out and have a good look at the other earths , you might be able to see where it come from..

 

 

p.s the wire length will be a good indication of where it broke off/came from,

{i.e its 10 inchs long = 10inchs from battery, allowing bends,routing etc }

also with a multimeter you can check to see if your alternators charging the battery properly...

Mine is same Jim. I would like it to run for 5 mins after shutoff though.....

yea that's what I would like too, I currently don't have one fitted to my 24v swap as I didn't realise the wiring for it was on the 12v engine which I sold :( , but its on my things to do list!, how ever I don't think rados aux pump is meant to come on without the fans, I don't now if this is going to be easy but I know the mk4 v6's aux pump comes on after shut down regardless of temp, it comes on and stays on for ahwile even if you only start it for 1 minute. looking at the wiring diagram for mk4 the power for it comes from the fan control module the same as corrado but I wandering if the mk4 FCM has a timer switch instead of corrados temp switch? it might be as easy as getting a mk4 FCM with the two plugs and matching it up for that function? dunno I'll look into it...

wow 300 bhp! , if you asked me to guess judging by the pics idd probably say 150 or 180 at a push! damn japs know whats up!

its possible its still leaking from scuttle, id remove the seat and store it some where for now, pull that carpet up on the passenger side, you could even remove It by cutting it under the ashtray/handbrake trim bit so its in 2 sections leaving the drivers side intact, you will have to remove trim pieces etc , dry everything out! and carefully see where its coming in, headliner all dry around the sunroof? ..

your right , here look on the left hand side and scroll down to G2 , then look g2/10 and g2/11 and across to the right has wiring colours, http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

yea the pressure and part numbers are on there, im holding the one that comes on as you switch the ign on in my hand right now as it happens :) , its 0.15- 0.35 bar , 02891901H , the other sender is something like 1.5 bar its higher then this...