VW_OwneR_85
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Posts posted by VW_OwneR_85
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wierd! maybe hes just really OCD with matching it 100%, im sure your be happy with the outcome,
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at the bodyshop but he was asking advice on how to get the best match for the stonechip.Hi bud, the effect is done with a shutz gun using stone chip paint, i.e upol's gravitex , pretty much every body shop should know this!
and this or any other other stone chip that can be used from the shutz gun, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stone-Chip-U-Pol-Gravitex-BLACK-can-be-over-painted-with-most-materials-1lt-/370824709055?hash=item5656e003bf:g:tmMAAOxyMxpRpgba
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obviously i/we dont know the actual condition of your braking system so its kind of hard to say weather or not to do this or that etc , but it does say every pipe is corroded in each corner except nearside rear, idd also say the imbalance is due to the bias valve/load sensing valve which is on the passenger side rear on the axle, which could be siezed and might free up and work perfectly for the continued future Or not? , judgeing by what is written above, new pipes in each corner , new bias valve along with new flexys all round , that way they bleed it and its done and your not comming back every other year with your braking system being drained and re bled {which is labour every time they need to do it to replace something} and causing you more hassle, there isnt much to a braking system just get it done if you can afford it that is..
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nice! looks mint!
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in regards to your hot air , look in the engine bay towards the center at the back , you should see two coolant hoses side by side or under/ over about 2 inchs apart that go directly into the heater matrix,there easy to find as no other hoses like that go into the car , if its been by passed then you will see a tube or something {22mm copper pipe?} joining them together to create a bypass right there in the engine bay , if there not by passed then its got some thing to do with the lever that switchs from hot to cold.
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theres a company on ebay doing it along with ecu immo deletes, i recommend laying both the wiring looms out in front of you and get familiar with them and by using the 1.8t guide and info from the net have a go yourself , because end of the day it will be you fitting it, i waited months n months for rub jonny to do mine and in the end i had him send the looms to some one else and then when i got them back and installed it i had to remove it and then trace faults back etc i basically had to throw myself in the deep end with trying to find out wtf was wrong, rub jonny helped me sort a few things out over email but otherwise by the end of it i might as well of done the wiring myself ...
This image of the main ecu plug is what got my engine sorted , iirc it was pin 21 that wasnt powered up
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Not much but its a start .
Nice and clean .
The new parts are dribbling in, as and when i can afford it . Bolts n bits n pieces . Like British rail , im getting there .
good stuff! , i need to do this to mine, was it fairly straight forward? cheers
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these are far easier to fit then the main windscreen, you can easily fit them yourself , not much to go wrong, just a case of applying the adhesive {comes in a kit with paint/glass primer which is applied with a swob} bead around the entire permiter in a triangle shape at around 13mm high, then push in place , being careful not to push to much! secure with masking tape and then leave it,
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heater matrix, sun roof, and the blower vent seal {foliage seal?} on the passenger side scuttle tray are all possible areas, as mentioned above, do you need to top up your cooling system ? if yes then its possible its the matrix, might just want to do it as preventative maintenance and piece of mind, just brought a mk4 golf v6 4motion and got the whole front end off already within 1st week , so i feel your pain with having to do jobs like this but it will be worth it...
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yes they are part of the window, along the bottom edge and vertical door shut a painter could pack the seal up so paint goes under but the 45 degree seal edge is a problem...
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been really slack on the corrado lately , picked up a boot lid to refurb over the winter and almost lost the will with sanding them damn alloys! got a few done and looks pretty damn good!
still need to finish them off but im in no rush, in the mean time iv had an itch for a mk4 golf v6 4motion for ages and finally brought one last weekend, already getting stuck in and getting the crap done out the way! have a couple of electrical issues to sort which is lighting up the traction control light despite that there lovely to drive! very smooth and quiet, with the standard exhaust upon start up you can hear the VR pur and accelerating its just a refined quiet vr noise but very subtle!
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Whilst you got it off can you take some pics of the area near the solenoid and the cam sprockets please?yep, iv already taken pics not sure if there going to be of use but give me 30 mins and ill post up the ones i got ,if not ill get some more in week.
any good?
turns out its just an o-ring,
seems like the actual leak was due to corrosion, can see the pits, cleaned it up best i can so im going to need a decent sealant , iv seen some people skim the pits with chemical metal? think its best to use a decent quality sealant to help the seal , something like loctite?
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cheers guys, going to be whipping the lot off this afternoon hopefully it has its own o-ring and not a built in seal!
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Hi guys, recently picked up a golf v6 4motion AUE {love it btw !!}, doing the thermostat housing and crack pipe along with cam cover gasket right now, just noticed on the cam cover right behind the oil fill cap theres seems to be a sensor of some sort? looks like its also leaking, My BDE doesnt have that, anyone know what its for? cheers
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by the sounds of it you have a cooling system thats actually working ;)
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No need for the grille. That was for Canada and Scandinavia..yea i agree no need aswell, but i know someone locally that had that grill, i cut the slates out for extra cooling so dont know where you get that info from
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you need to cross reference the temp reading the ecu is getting using vcds/vagcom software to that of temp gauge , chances are the temp sender for the gauge is lying abit, mine does read slightly lower aswell, what counts is the ecu getting the right temp, failing that if you want to heat it up anyway VW made a grill for the winter which has the slates covered up so the rad doesnt get as much cooling...
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I had the same issue but just drove the car carefully for the first week or so. Settled down nicely after that.yea same here when i fitted mk4 rears with new pads,
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mines been fine without it, only reason its not fitted is because the wiring for it isnt there anymore due to engine swap
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from what iv read some where , my under standing is its function is to circulate the coolant after the engine is shut down to maintain even heat distribution to avoid distortion, i.e uneven expansion/contraction {mainly in the head}, kinda makes sense i guess...
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ah gutted ,i dont have one, i have a bit of 22mm copper pipe in place of mine , that should sort you out until you replace it
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i agree with swift, iv had 9"et15 borbet A's on the rear of my vr and they stuck out abit but the dishs did not look as big as the ones you have there, if you search my thread in members gallery theres some pics , probably page 3-4...
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what are your symptoms of this valve sticking down? i thought it was a non return valve, what fluid are you using?
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i dont know enough about electrics but even to me that seems odd, you would of thought the ecu itself would be insulated enough? ,might be something more sinister going on as to why part of the ecu casing would be creating a circuit
Adjusting the clutch
in Drivetrain
Posted
im 99% sure it cant be adjusted, is the clutch slipping at all? when you say low bite point , you do mean its only biting when the clutch is almost fully released? or its biting straight away the moment its just off the floor? just be to clear