VW_OwneR_85

yea it matters .they both do different pressures/things, you know when you switch your ign on but your engine hasn't started your see the oil pressure light flash, this is because of one of the sensors telling you theres no oil pressure, {which is why it goes away when your engine Is started} the other sensor trips an alarm and also flashs if the engine speed/revs are around 2k and pressure drops below a certain amount,

never owned an r32 but I recently brought a golf v6 4motion (3door no sun roof} which in my eyes minus the body kit/interior differences isn't that much different apart from being 2.8 vr6 instead of 3.2 vr6, cheaper insurance and fuel, sounds just as good!, has the same AWD system, very comfortable with heated recaros and is still pretty quick, and can be had for pretty cheap leaving loads of spare change for an r32 body kit and a lot more if you wanted, food for thought...

i got one from euro car parts wasn't to expensive, it is possible to replace the actual bearing in the roller but mine wouldn't bodge, i also made the mistake in stripping the hell out of the bolt for the roller as its actually L/H thread, and yea its very easy to replace not worth getting a garage involved..

I did notice that the coolant temperature on VCDS was higher than the dash gauge ( VCDS was in the mid 80's and the dash gauge was just below 70) so I don't know if this has any relevance?

 

What I did prior to fitting them permently was to plug all 3 new coolent sensors in while the engine was stone cold and just leave them loose hanging on the wiring and then start th car, this made no difference and it is the same as it always is.

im thinking throttle body because every things working and driving fine, if it was maff or vac leak or coil pack etc etc it would also effect how its running/driving, fyi I probably shouldn't of said to compare dash gauge to ecu temp when hot as corrado dash gauges do have the tendency to read lower then what it actually is, I think the best bet it to try a different known working TB...

I recon look a little closer at the throttle body, even though you cleaned it..

weird how its temp related but doesn't seem to be, have you checked the wiring to the ISV for splits/breaks and the plug for corrosion?

Interesting.... I've picked up all new temp sensors today and I'll fit them tomorrow so I'll see what happens!

I don't think it will make any difference as the temp the ecu is getting {which is the important one} which you got via vcds seems fine, unless its staying at 10 degrees when its hot, how is the car driving/running? is it purely just an idle problem?

 

I've gone into advanced measuring blocks and the coolant temperature is showing 10.5 degrees, which it is about that in here. Am I looking at the right thing?

sounds about right then , I would tick that off the list and it wouldn't hurt to check that temp again when its hot vs the dash gauge, not sure about throttle angle, is the car driving ok? especially when you boot it? , the only time iv had an idle issue was because of maff sensor but this also played apart in how it ran, so if yours isn't quite right especially when you boot it then see if you can swap over maffs with someone local? as there quite expensive...

Sorry, do you mean check the ECU temperature against what's being sent to the dash temp gauge?

you could do if you have been driving but idd prefer to do it when the engine/cooling system is completely cold then the temp is going to be around 5 to 10 degrees I would of thought, if its significantly higher or lower, then change it ,

just noticed you used vcds, you can look at the coolant temp that the ecu is getting, do this when the engines cold , the temp should be the same, 5 degrees? idk but if its saying something a lot higher like 100, then obviously its the problem..

the Maf sensor also effects idling but I don't think this is your problem due to it getting better as the temp rises , its worth trying a new temp sender as there not expensive , what I would do is {from cold} just unplug the temp sender and plug it in to the new one so its just hanging off the plug just to try it out as your engine will be as cold as that temp sender, so it should start and run fine from cold in that respect,

pretty certain you can still buy that seal from vw, its got a lip on it that when you push it in it grips and stays down, that looks like a right mess though, whats with the sealant? was that there to hold down the seal? if so then im guessing your screen was replaced at some point and alignment isn't quite sitting right for that seal to fit tight, also the main thing is that seal is only there for looks , it doesn't actually seal out water, its there to fill the gap, your windscreen is bonded in place and that's what makes a water tight seal, if theres rust or the adhesive has failed then it could explain the leak, the other area to look at is under the bonnet in the scuttle tray your see the mesh box looking thing directly below the windscreen , its the inlet for the blower , water can leak through the seal, search foliage seal and it should come up...

I can understand the principle of that. I'll Have to try it this weekend. It just seems there are differences. .. and the car actually was running okay without the auxillary pump working! !

aux pump wont effect the cars running at all, its primary function is to circulate coolant around the engine once the engine has been switched off to keep an even temp across the engine until the temp drops {below 90? not sure at the temp} , I bleive its to stop distortion in the head, in the sense that if an area of the engine is hotter or colder or cools down quicker then a different area then with expansion/contraction could lead to problems, I wouldn't worry to much mine doesn't even have an aux pump and has been fine for a long time, I am putting one in though when I can be bothered....

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so warmed the car up so that my fans are coming on. Switched the car off and still NOTHING. No whirring over run when hot

did it get hot enough for the fans to run after you switched off?, it might not of been hot enough...

I brought this for my mk4 golf , works a treat! and cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Konnwei-KW809-Car-Diagnostic-Scanner-CAN-OBD2-Code-Reader-Tool-VW-Audi-VS-VAG405-/221638141140?hash=item339aa9a4d4:g:GZwAAOSwBLlVAQsp

i would still check the wiring to it as far as you can trace back for piece of mind, also have you checked for vacuum leaks , splits in the intake hose?

i had an idle problem ages ago and ran like crap! maf sensor plug full of water!, seeing as you have a new maf? make sure the connections are corrosion free and the wiring to it is good..

try ebay.co.uk and message the sellers to see if they can post to you but obviously its going to cost quite a bit...

So how can it be listed for the Corrado VR6 but you had to modify it..!? Presumably an early/late car difference?

i know what you mean, I dont think its a late/early difference, tbh i could of fitted it as it was out the box but the routing of the inlet flexy looks and also functions a lot better in the vertical position rather then p155ed at an angle, its just one of them parts i guess, but looking at what else is out there i would still buy this part again if i ever needed another...

I guess it could be water pump , my thought towards that would be its lost some fins so its not circulating coolant very well on idle, and when you drive it at 2k + revs it then has enough oommphh to circulate the coolant around , you can see how well the pump is circulating by the small coolant return hose at the top of the expansion tank, you should have something comming out on idle and the more you rev it the more it will flow,

i fitted this one on my vr6, made by bosch and decent quality , I tapped out the bolting holes to except studs like the original , weather or not you can use nuts/bolts not sure , I also used the original straight inlet piece rather then having it at an angle,http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-VW-CORRADO-53I-2-9-VR6-Coupe-190-BHP-Top-German-Quality-/400777974942?fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item5d503a949e:g:cFAAAOSwQItUIal3

everyone has there ways and if it works it works , for me I fill it as much as it takes then squeeze the hoses at which point you can fill up more , rinse and repeat until the level doesn't move anymore then start it up and let the pump circulate and clear more air out and once again check level..

the trick is to put your hand around the rad hose's and other hoses if you can and repeatedly squeeze them , so your kinda manually hand pumping the air out, it should force any air out and displace that with water, {so long as theres water there to come on in}

can you compare it to your old one? you shouldnt have to hammer it in lol

Just to add, I've realised that I've not bled the master cylinder, I'm wondering if this is normal, is the bite point actually meant to be low.

 

Rog.

my bite point is low too, at a guess idd say around 2 inchs of lift before its biting?