P3rks

LIST UPDATED - 17th June 2013 OPEN TO OFFERS ON EVERYTHING (unless otherwise stated) VR6 Corrado 2.9 VR6 Inlet manifold (both parts) including throttle body. Also fits OBD1 Golfs and has a larger bore/plenum for better top end. Underside covered in heat reflective tape to reduce heatsoak - £100 VR6 Coilpack (left on the picture), genuine VW, no cracks and perfect working condition - SOLD VR6 original exhaust manifold and downpipe -£25 VR6 Flywheels, Both have the part number: 021 105 273 H. The one to the right it noticeably thinner and weights approximately 2kg less than the one on the left. The only difference in markings on the rear is that the lighter one says 'F&S 1' and the heavier says 'F&S 4'. I can only presume it's been skimmed or lightened. - £25 each VR6 (Golf and Corrado) fuel filter housing and clips, unbroken with no cracks. Part No: 1H0201505B - SOLD Golf VR6 (1997 OBD2) fuel pump. Nice and quiet operation. £30 VR6 (Golf and Corrado) 90a alternator with wiring. Part No: 021903025. SOLD VR6 Aircon pump (right in photo) - £30 VR6 K&N air filter / induction kit, with all brackets and cold air feed - SOLD VR6 Driveshafts - £50 VR6 Wishbones, perfect for powdercoating. - £50 VR6 ECU (1993/94 Corrado 2.9 VR6 - OBD1 - Part: 021 906 258 AG) - £50 VR6 Lambda (1993 Corrado 2.9 VR6 - OBD1) - Removed due to a OBD2 upgrade. Was VAGCOM tested as fully operational before removal - £15 VR6 Brake servo and master cylinder - £50 VR6 Cam sensor - VAGCOM tested - £20 VR6 Injectors, perfect for sending off for cleaning. £10 VR6 4bar fuel pressure regulator (this was recently sent off and ultrasonic cleaned with new filters and o-rings - Unused since clean as I went 3bar for my OBD2 instead) - £25

Bump, still here. I've also included the rear sensors now. so this is a full kit, ready to fit.

Damn, just had mine done. Could have saved £8. :(

It's a mini K&N filter, but yeah, any cheapo mini filter will work, to be fair, you don't really need one. Mine runs well, no adverse effects. The inlet side if things are much cleaner. My catch tanks pretty large, its a 42 Draft Stealth Can so about 750ml max. I had it on about 6 months and it hardly had anything in, maybe 100ml?

So one pipe from the camcase breather, to the catch can, then another pipe from the catch can which goes under the car and has a mini filter on the end. I blocked off the inlet on the throttle intake pipework (what the PCV notmally goes to) and also the mini breather pipe from the PCV to throttle to charcoal so effectively its now a pipe from the charcoal to the throttle body. I can't see it effecting anything as the PCV is vacuum controlled I believe? No electrical sensors involved anyway.

Here you go:

Well, I managed to get it off, well, to a stage I'm happy with. I used cellulose thinner. :shocked!: I tested a small area first to make sure it was safe enough then just liberally applied it. It softens the wax just enough so it can be scrubbed away; it doesn't melt it, literally softens the bond with the paint. You have to use loads of the stuff because it evaporates quickly and work in small area's at a time, plus you have to really scrub it to remove it. It caused a few scuffs due to the constant rubbing and build up of the wax; it's dulled the lacquer but nothing a really good polish can't fix - plus, even before a polish it looks miles better so I'm happy. You have to be careful though as some parts of the bay is obviously un-lacquered, such as where the sealant lines are (where the turret joins the chassis for example) and also in the nooks and crannies (behind the turrets etc). The thinner just removes the paint there very quickly, luckily I've only gone through in area's where a touch up will be more or less invisible, to be honest; it's more or less inevitable and I thought the outcome would be much worse. Here is where I am so far: Weather permitting I will be touching up, polishing, glazing and waxing the bay so I'll show some finished results then.

I have a catch can. I don't like dirty oil vapours going into my engine, clogging the throttle body etc. Plus oil vapours can't be any good for combustion. Stupid stupid idea.

I never give up. I'm going to try paint thinners, adhesive remover and acetone. Wish me luck! :awesome:

Tried Farecla G3 and also Memzerna Fast Gloss FG400. Didn't touch it. Things tried so far: Brake cleaner, injector/carb cleaner, hyper clean degreaser, WD40, GT85, machine cleaner, engine degreaser. Gunk, tar remover, various grades of polish and car shampoo, citrus cleaner, APC cleaner, wheel cleaners (some acidic, some PH neutral), white spirits, methylated spirits, heat gun, boiling water, detergent, petrol, diesel, glass cleaner, glass polish and IPA solution. Nothing touches it. It's literally harder than paint.

Right, I've done 90% of the bay. Heating it up is the way to go, boiling water melts it and flushes it away whilst a 5-10 second blast with a heat gun also melts it, so it can be wiped away. So.. Boiling water / heat gun removed the large deposits if wax, then I used engine degreaser / white spirit, then IPA solution, all with a lot of old rags and a lot of elbow grease. That got me ready for a polish. BUT! For the life if me, I can't remove this stuff on the near side turret. It's rock hard, harder than the paint underneath it and all the other wax Ive encounted. The other turret was similar, but no way near as hard or as thick and white spirit and a scrub removed that side no problem. I've tried everything, heat doesn't touch it really, the heat gun needs to be left on for so long its melting the wax on the underside of the arch, its smoking the paintwork around the effected area; but all it does is ever so slightly soften this stuff - to the point I get 5 seconds of scrub time with a rag before the rag wants to set on fire. I've spent a good few hours on this section and I've removed less than a half squre inch. It's just not a feasible solution. No product is touching it, not in the slightest. I've tried picking at it with my nails (which worked on the other turret), a plastic scraper, a Brillo pad, scourer, various acidic wheel cleaners and heavy duty wheel brushes. In fact the only thing which really made a dent was using a metal screwdriver or a Stanley blade to pick it off, but its ruining the paint underneath - so that's not feasible either. I'm actually wondering whether this stuff is the protective wax I've encountered elsewhere or whether it's a reminiscence of an old adhesive? Maybe something like what held the bonnet insulation on and its melted, dripped down and re-set super strong - because I had the exact same stuff on my inlet manifold too. I think the next things to try are paint thinners and strippers, but that scares me. Another option is 1500-2000grit sandpaper then buffing the surface afterwards. Any ideas guys? It's rotting my brain now, this'll be the 5th day on it! Grrrr!

It's surprisingly easy. I can get mine off in about 20-30 minutes now. I think it's only 6 screws to take the actual dash out. First time round took me hours and hours because I was learning and being careful. Hardest thing is knowing what to remove, how to remove it and how not to break it. You pretty much have to strip the dash - Switches, clocks, steering wheel and cowling, vents, centre console, heater controls. Which is the time consuming bit. Then un-clip all the wiring loom as it's clipped to the dash. Then it's a few screws and the dash pulls out. It's very disconcerting first time you do it.

Pete, try this? https://www.dropbox.com/sh/207sc34z84y1k7o/om3Mt5F-BP

Yes. Pretty much. I've had to repair it on 4 of my old VW's of the same era. It's a heaterbox out job as you have to split it in two. Which is obviously a dash out job. Can be done in a day (or a weekend if you want to tidy some wiring up which I'm confident will need doing if it's not been touched before). Here is what I suspect you'll find: As you can see, the flaps are metal but full of large holes and if you look at the one towards the back you'll see the reminiscence of the foam which originally covered the flaps (and the holes) - Which is no longer there as it's all sat in the bottom of your heaterbox. Essentially when you pull the sliders those flaps operate like opening and closing doors which direct the air; not only to your feet, face or windscreen, but also the heater slider will bypass the heatermatrix or not. But since they are both full of holes the air always bypasses the heatermatrix, even when it's not meant to - hence why it never gets fully warm, or stays roughly the same temperature no matter what you do. So what I did was fully remove my heaterbox and split it in two (there are little metal clips and plastic tabs which fasten it together, it's easily split). Get some self adhesive heat reflective tape (Halfrauds, screw fix, B&Q - it's normally used for behind household radiators to reflect the heat). And simply cover the flaps: I then covered the edges with a standard household draft excluder. Once done: That's the flap for the heat by the way. The first picture is when the slider is at hot, second when cold. When in the hot position the hot air travels through the back of the heater box, over the heatermatrix, warms up and then to where ever you direct it. When in the cold position the air doesn't go over the heatermatrix at all so it's at a ambient temperature. So as you can imagine if the flaps got holes in it, moving the slider won't do much at all as the air will just take the easiest route. I'd also recommend cleaning the heaterbox out, greasing the mechanisms (the cables and also you'll see little plastic cogs on the underside of the heaterbox). And also replacing the heater matrix if you haven't done so already - they are a known weak spot. For info, pictures of the directional flap: And for the windscreen direction: First picture will go to your feet or the windscreen. Second to your face (where you can also see the heater flap which is set on warm) and the third controls the windscreen or feet (if it's open its windscreen, closed, feet). You can also just see the windscreen flap to the right of the flap in picture one and two. Hope this helps explain it. I really should do a how to guide at some point.

I'm guessing all the vent flap foam has disintegrated; so now your flaps inside the heater box are full of holes, meaning air can't be directed any more. Plus all the disintergrated crap is making it difficult for the flaps to move. Plus the mechs have probably dried out and need a grease. Heater box out time I think. Enjoy!

I would do it tonight but my scanner is broke, but I'll nip to a mates first thing. :)

Slowly getting there... It seems boiling water - lots of it, a pressure washer, white spirits, Gunk, IPA solution then a polish seems to be doing the trick.. Oh, and a lot of elbow grease.. What a horrible job.

Hello Everyone, I've doing a spring clean on my car and I've noticed that the foglights are starting to go milky, which is crap because they are only a few years old. Is there any way I clean these up, split them etc? I can see the dirt and milkyness is on the inside but they are bonded to the black plastic surround. I don't know what cleaning product I can use or do in fear of cracking, melting, removing the reflective or making the glass even more milky. Any advice?

If you can wait until tomorrow I'll scan mine in and PDF it for you?

Very nice C5 OEM, What was your method of cleaning? Well, I've tried white spirit but I'm a little unsure if it's safe on paintwork. It's leaving a cloudy finish. But it is dissolving the wax. I've been told petrol or diesel might work?

I'm trying to give my Corrado engine bay a good clean and removing 20 years of crap. I'm really struggling removing the original yellow protective wax. I've scraped all the large thick chunks out but I'm left with a dull white/yellow film everywhere. It's just impossible to remove. I've tried a pressure washer, steam cleaner, kettle, gunk, AG tar remover, AG engine cleaner, AP cleaner, detergent and a heat gun. No cleaning product is touching it. The steam cleaner doesn't really touch it, the kettle melts the wax but it just spreads thin and sets hard very quickly. The heat gun melts it, but as the kettle it just thins out and sets again. Some parts where it's really thin such as the turrets the kettle/heat gun doesn't work but scrubbing it with my nail chips it away. Any advice what top try next that won;t ruin the paint work?

Looks very well! It's come a long way. Wheel specs are similar to mine. Are they RS's?

Very nice! What's the spec on the wheels and tyres?

That's mental. Lucky, lucky man.

Awww, sorry man. :(