P3rks

Really? you can barter with the dealers? I'll pass those on to my mate. :)

Good shout! I thought G60's were obsolete? Can the still be bought from VW? ---------- Post added at 11:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ---------- Just checked. £194.40 all in for a set of four from TPS with trade discount. 17 left in the country. Centre caps are obsolete at £24.48 a set all in.

As the title. My friend has just bought a Corrado 16v project and he's trying to get it back to standard-ish. He's after some original Corrado 4-stud alloys with decent tyres. Preferabley in great condition or above, or cheap enough to refurbish. What have you got?

This is my concern. When my MK2 was stolen and non recovered it was insured with an estimated value of £4,500. I was initially offered £3,000 which I rejected, then they came back with an offer of £1,200 because the first valuation was incorrect (trainee apparently). I've had to spend a hell of a lot of time arguing with them ever since. I do not want to go through that again.

Right, long story short my car insurance shot up by a ridiculous amount last year due to a claim. I'm still having issues with a certain insurer over a claim valuation and still haven't had a final pay out almost 2 years later, so as a result I'm very particular about car insurance. So, anyway. I'm currently insured on a classic policy with Footman James. I'm really happy with them and I have a certified agreed valuation of £5,000 but their renewal isn't the cheapest I've had this year so I've said no to their automatic renewal. I've rang around the usual and my two best quotes are: Classic line insurance - £408.75 *Agreed to £6,000 Adrian Flux - £395.00 *Not agreed but has a market value with like for like on modifications Now, both policies have similar features in excess amounts and other insurance features, but classic line is an agreed valuation where as Adrian Flux is market value plus like for like on modifications. Now to throw a spanner in the works classic line is a classic policy which doesn't take into account my NCB nor do I gain any, where as Adrian flux does. Also Adrian flux has a feature of driving any other car third party (which is always handy) but Classic line doesn't. I'm unsure how Adrian flux will value the car and it's modifications. At the end of the day insurance is there for the worse case scenario where the car is written off or nicked. I don't want to go through the hassle of arguing the cars value again like I did with my last claim. The last thing I want is my car to be valued at £1,200 in the event of a claim because I'll never get a Corrado as good as mine is for that - This is where a agreed valuation is paramount. But within the next 12 months I need a policy which uses my NCB or I loose them, plus building them up also adds further discounts - I can always wait until next years renewal but who knows what that'll bring. Like I say Adrian flux said market value (which is roughly £1500-£2000 according to the glass guide) plus like for like on modifications. Which I can easily prove £5000-6000 in modification value costs (If my GF finds out I'm dead!). This means the value should be close to the £6,000 agreed classic line offer. But I don't know how Adrian Flux will react in the event of a claim so the values not guaranteed - it's a risk. What would you do?

Ahhh. No problem. Just had a few PM's go through as blank messages so wanted to make sure :)

Hi Daves16v, PM'd you re the brackets and some other bits and bobs, not sure if you got it or not. Can you drop me a PM back? :)

This is the first thing I thought.

MAF, elbow and ICV sold.

£130 and its all yours. I can have it to you for Friday if payment is made today.

Just call it fiver :) It's approximately just over two years old and has covered around 10,000 miles in that time. The car idled perfect from hot and cold and never dropped or stalled at junctions or anything. On vagcom it was always between 650/700rpm when warmed up and just under 1000rpm when cold. Rich

Honestly. No reason other than I've had the conversion sat for ages and I was bored and felt like I needed to spend some love on the Corrado. The OBD2 is just a nicer drive and it's what every nice VR deserves. :)

Erm.. I'd rather not for the time being. Sorry. :( I'm not as you're right, they are the same. I just have two spares sat here doing nothing and I'm skint. :awesome:

Not at the moment mate, the 2.8 boys love these inlets and throttle bodies and I've seen them fetch over £130!

£10 postage with a 24 hour courier. PM'd

I'm doing a OBD2 conversion so all of my OBD1 related parts are surplus. Came off a perfect running car so all parts are in working order. 6-Pin MAF - SOLD Inlet pipe (no cracks, splits or tears - still nice and supple - as good as they come) - SOLD Idle control valve and associated pipework. (The idle control valve is a few years old and the pipework as above) - SOLD Coilpack x2 - £50 2.9 Inlet (both parts) and throttle body with new VW inlet to TB gasket (underside covered in reflective tape with the aim to reduce heat soak) - £100 That's it for now. I will update as and when. Items are located in Sheffield and i can post at cost. All items are ono. Thanks.

Sorry to get you covered! The mileage is way too high. I need 135k +/- a few thousand.

Is there anyway you can plug them in and find out?

Whats the exact mileage on the clocks?

Erm....? Maybe put a volt meter on the battery (if it is being drained you'll see the volts slowly dropping). Then pull out the connection on the back of the ignition. If the voltage then stops dropping you know it's the ignition switch or associated wiring?

No, you should have to turn the key one click to activate the radio/electrics. But remove the key fully to turn them off (i.e. once you've turned one click to turn the electrics on, you can turn one click back and they'll stay on; until you remove the key).

Is it just a spring? Nice. I'll get it coated then. If it fudges up I have a spare I'll just have to paint.

As the title really, I'm dropping a few parts off at the powdercoaters, is the VR aux tensioner safe to powdercoat? (I've removed the plastic pulley wheel). I'm unsure if I can break it down any further and I don;t know if the heat will kill whatever is inside. :bonk:

Thanks for the input guys! I have two upper inlet manifolds and three lower inlets and a selection of paint to try.. I'll post the results up!

None! I couldn't get a good match at all and I ended up frying my switch with a soldering iron. This is the bulb type which is in the OE switch (I believe) http://bit.ly/W32Xfj - I've not tried this but it looks identical and its whats used for the rest of the dash bulbs. But I ended up buying a VW Sharon/Ford Galaxy switch (http://bit.ly/W34e6b) due to frying mine with a soldering iron. The switch is exactly the same. But the outer casing was different, I just simply swapped the covers over - 30 second job. I only paid a fiver for mine so worked out cheaper and less hassle than a bulb. Now the Sharon switch was off a newer car and it used a normal white 286 bulb but with a silicone cap cover thing to make it green (compaired to the original painted bulb in the Corrado) and its s much better light/consistancy - http://bit.ly/VFqaHi (I'm not sure whether you need 3 or 5mm for the 286 bulbs though as I'm ony phone ATM).