P3rks

Got a servo/M/C set up. Are you after ABS or non-ABS though?

Bump. Un-cracked 90mm splitter, injectors FPR etc added. List updated, open to offers on EVERYTHING!

Yeah, I actually ordered them from VW thinking I was getting something else, but when they came I kept them anyway. Good old VW. :) Expect an update this evening.

Picked up a almost new slave cylinder from a member on my local VW forum. Fixed it and wow, the clutch feels brand new! Only a 20 min job too!

From VW, about 20p each - Something like that; they were surprisingly cheap anyway. I got loads not too long ago. I can grab the part number later.

I'm guessing your fans kicking in is setting off the alarm? As James said, on the side of the alarm control box there is a sensitivity adjuster. It will be behind your dash somewhere though.

Nice one, I'll get the slave off tomorrow and have a look. I'm presuming I should have enough play in the pipe work so I don't have to remove it and bleed it again?

Got one now. Please delete.

I bled it using a vacuum bleeder and clutch pedal method - I went way OTT just to make sure there was no air. Check it for faults? How? Or is it just a case if removing it and looking for internal leaks? Edit: The slave looks to be original.

The VR has been off the road for 6 months. The clutch has had a replacement, used master cylinder (known working) and a recent (extensive) bleed with fresh fluid - no air in the system as far as I can tell. I replaced the master cylinder as I broke a late golf which had an almost new one; so whilst the car was off the road I replaced it as the clutch always felt a little weak/soft. The bite point was always at the very top if the pedal but now it's mid-way since the MC change. But, now if the pedal is held whilst in gear, especially reverse the bite point becomes lower and lower until the clutch starts to automatically engage and you can't pull it out of gear. Lift the clutch pedal and push it again and the clutch is back to normal.. Until you hold it again anyway. It's got no leaks as far as I can tell and it's using no fluid; as far as I can tell. Possible slave cylinder or a knackerd clutch?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=80395 Half way down the page. £30 plus postage. Fully working; removed from a late 1997 Golf and was identical to my late 1993 Corrado VR6 master cylinder.

The only difference with the bumpers is the swage line at the top. I believe the later one fades out where as the early cuts below the bumper. Both are interchangeable, as are the foglights. You'll just upset the purists. I have a mint 90mm splitter in Sheffield if thats any good? Also a bare VR6 subframe but I have all the bolts and stuff to go with it.

Remove the motor but keep it plugged in (electronically), try slide again. The motors weaken over the years and struggle to move the sunroof back, but they'll still work when they are free.

Just a curiosity question really; but why did VW decide to go 5-stud / widetrack for the VR6? I always felt the narrowtrack 4-stud Corrado's turned in and responded better in the handling department.

Good news. Mines normal then. Curious though, why does it do it on ignition. It's the same noise and movements as when it adapts through vagcom. What's the reason behind it?

Brilliant! I thought as much. Paranoia. :) Does that go for the noise/movement every time the ignition is put on too?

Hello, I have just completed my OBD2 conversion on my Corrado VR6 and I'm a little concerned by my throttle body. Long story short the conversion went sweet, then yesterday when I was playing about I dropped a spanner and it shorted the two battery terminals. As far as I'm aware it's done no damage... But...When I first did my conversion and I aligned the throttle body I swear the butterfly fully opened 100% then closed again. Where as now when I align the throttle body it literally moves a few cm then closes again. It also moves a few cm's, (buzzes and clicks - exactly like it's doing an alignment) every time the ignition is switched on. My question is, what should it actually be doing? Also, whether its related or not; should the ECU remember the learned values within vagcom. Such as the lambda idle learned value, etc?

The ABS system is integral with the light.. I.E the system does a self check including the light.. No light, no ABS. The top two pin plug is for the airbag light which no UK Corrado has, there are three or four different ABS lights for the Corrado, but all should be interchangeable with each other (as far as the ABS system goes - wiring loom is another story). The light does not require the two pin airbag plug as its a independent system. The wiring for the ABS light has a seperate loom going to position X on the fusebox (when looking at the fusebox from the front it's top right; from the rear it's top left). A green 6-8 pin chunky plug - bang next to the large red live feeds. I'm an expert on the Corrado ABS system now as I've just spent ages ripping mine out and replacing it for a later system.

That's s really good question.. I just checked mine and they average 81.. You would presume the larger the number, the higher the flow the better the injector... But then, I don't know what the number to aim for should be? With mine one was leaky so the flow rate was 85 before the clean/service then it dropped to 79. So possibly higher numbers could mean worn injectors? I used some injectors from a late 97 Golf VR that had done 150k. They matched my (dec) 93 Corrado VR injectors.

I've just finished mine and everything worked first time around. I remember having to remove two wires from two seperate multi plugs at the fusebox side of things on the OBD2 loom and splicing them onto a single two pin yellow plug from the original Corrado loom. I didn't make any notes but I know for a fact that someone updated the main guide and showed the wires I'm talking about with the pin locations. I believe they are associated with the smaller plug on the fan control module and possibly the black temp sensor. All my loom is fully wrapped now so I can't trace any wires; but I can pull the fusebox down and show you what connects to what. It'll be this evening though.

My bad. I forgot. I'll get some tomorrow. Promise x

As in the rubber gearbox mount which sits in the subframe? Yeah, it's the same as the Golf VR6 one.

MK3 golf ones do NOT work. They are very close, but the mechs are backwards and not interchangeable. Plastic welding or liquid metal putty is the way forward.

Just to add to this I have a similar issue with blue smoke on the over run. My compression test results were.. Cylinder 1 - Dry 160 / Wet 185 Cylinder 2 - Dry 180 / Wet 200 Cylinder 3 - Dry 145 / Wet 160 Cylinder 4 - Dry 175 / Wet 190 Cylinder 5 - Dry 170 / Wet 180 Cylinder 6 - Dry 160 / Wet 170 I've done a bit of research and 160psi is factory standard with an upper limit of 189psi and a wear limit of 109psi. A 44psi max difference across the range. So i'd say mine are all within tolerance. If anything for a standard, original engine with the original headgasket with 130k on the clock is pretty damn good.. Although the Cylinder 3 does concern me though being lower than the rest... I'd say your compression is good.

Just squeeze the mech end to bend it in slightly. That's what I did.