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seanl82

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Posts posted by seanl82

  3. Posted

    9 hours ago, Frank said:

    Hi I have been looking for a Corrado Storm for some years now as I had one new as my company car.

    Is there any for sale that low miles as standard? I am now in a position to buy one.

     

    Thanks

     

     

     

    Welcome to the forum Frank! Good knowledge base here and friendly bunch who are happy to help wherever possible. Which colour Storm are you interested in (Classic Green or Mystic blue)? The above post is true, though a Storm will always hold sway over a standard 'spec'd' model rightly or wrongly. Keep an eye out here and also on the CCGB Facebook page for sales. Occasionally they come up on the mainstream sites but most of those are dealer cars and they'll add a fairly hefty margin for not always good cars. Buy on condition rather than mileage, and have a look through the WIKI section which has a buyer's guide - though it was written a fair few years ago now, but most things in there are still relevant. Best of luck with your search! 👍

  4. Posted

    2 hours ago, peterpp said:

    OK thanks for the advice.. I can solder, so I'll get them to remove the pump & pedal sensor and I will do it myself.

    If you PM me your email address, I'll send over a guide I've written for the sprinter magazine on how to test & repair yourself mate. 

  6. Posted

    One 10mm cable should be enough depending on how much load and the length you're running, with a sub main at the bottom as it'll be more economical and neater than running 2 X 10mm cables (they're pretty big and expensive). There is a calculator on the TLC website that'll work the cable size out for you if you know the load. Bear in mind that the cable should really be buried (hence the mention of fussy Sparky's). Mine was run behind my fence and supported every 50cm with clips.

  8. Posted · Edited by seanl82

    9 minutes ago, vw rule said:

    I agree we should all have oil spray jets pointing to the back of our car's, just in case 😆  Wish I had a decent oil leak 😫😆👍

    Good to hear yours was only minimal 👍

    Si 

    It's the modern equivalent of the oily rag refurb that you mentioned earlier Si! 😆

  9. Posted

    It depends how anal your sparky is. I used 10mm swa to a shed at a sub main about 30m from the house. Everything including the swa, sub main consumer & RCDs was bought and run by myself. Its 100a at mains, supplies a 63 MCB at sub main for 6a RCD for lights, 32a sockets & 63a for hot tub. I've got a separate iso switch for the hot tub in the shed, though it's not connected yet as I've only got a 13a tub ATM - future proof. I paid £200 for the sparky to drill through the wall (2.5 ft of stone), install a JB and connect at the main consumer unit (which already had a spare RCD)  then test to get the sign off and certs for building regs. Took him about an hour, but he wasn't fussy in all honesty.

  10. Posted

    1 hour ago, vw rule said:

    Also I found and treated this just in time on the passenger side outer sill, before the rust really got in. This area the VW stone chip covering was lifting off.

    Si 

     

    IMG_20200714_191618218.jpg

    I was lucky by the look of it then! No pin holes anywhere and only one mounting stud that was starting the crumble/separation at the welds which I managed to grind back. I think the fact that the sump and lower chain cover had been leaking so long it  saved my bacon and gave the underside a misting of oil actually paid dividends! The only bit that needed welding was a couple of blobs to a 5p sized hole at one of the filler mounts. A mate with a mig sorted that for me, and a 2.5mm drill bit and tap sorted it perfectly. 👍

  11. Posted

    1 hour ago, vw rule said:

    Is this the new version of VW underseal you're talking about ?  To be honest I've never used the stuff from VW.

    Ebay item number 174280500815      Link below

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174280500815

     

    Si 

    I didn't use it Si, I'm just going by previous reviews of it. It's available in Black, Grey & white. My underseal is either a very aged white or more like a beige/very light grey colour, so I ended up just using Upol Gravitex as it had been mooted as more like the factory texture - which I managed to get with it using a brush and dabbing. It's much more rubberised as well like the original stuff. Unfortunately due to the colour differences though, I couldn't feather the top coat in like the factory overspray as it just looked like what it was, a cover up of repaired bits. I ended up just painting the whole of the underside classic green in the end. Note; I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning all the oil and grime off first using thinners. I wouldn't recommend just dabbing a load of underseal over the too! I also wire wheeled/ground back any rust (luckily mine was only surface around a few of the mounting studs and lip), used bilt hamber deox gel, and layed on a fair few coats of etch primer and top coat before re-undersealing and more of the top coat.

  13. Posted

    As above. I had VT fast road all round, but I've swapped the GB one back to standard due to cabin vibration and the fact I was getting paranoid about gearbox sounds!

    I don't think the rear makes any difference in all honesty. The front is important but the rear just acts as a pivot due to the weight distribution over the gearbox mount. The additional vibrations offset any benefit imo though, so as long as they're in good shape I'd leave as is. 

  14. Posted

    29 minutes ago, Keyo said:

    They look good from where i'm sitting the line comes through spot on from the door . Help with nose heavy VR as well .  

    The wings don't weigh a huge amount in fairness. Bonnet, tailgate and doors on the other hand! 😳

  16. Posted

    32 minutes ago, Popeye775 said:

    Hi sir, thank you for the reply. I will continuity test the wires today. That will narrow things down even more. I don't think you can use VCDS for G60. Just because the digifant has a different plug than OBDII, and from searching VCDS I only found ones that plug into OBDII ports sadly. Unless I am searching wrong haha

    I think it has a 2+2. You can read certain codes using the OBD2 and an adaptor. I don't think you can read much, but if you know someone close that has one you should be able to connect and at least see basic info which may give you an idea if the ECU is working.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143738230852

     

  17. Posted · Edited by seanl82

    9 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

    Hey guys for anyone following this thread,

    so here is the plan for the Corrado. I am extremely bummed that this car has just been sitting, but I am going to try and see if anybody near me - that owns a corrado or use to - has a spare stock ECU I can borrow to plug into my car and see if a different ECU solves the issue. IF it does, then I will move my chip over into that ECU and see if the problem persists. If it does, then I know it is the chip, if everything is fine, then I will know it was the ECU. If the different ECU doesn't work, then I am going to trace the red wire going from ECU to the injectors to see if there are any breaks in that wire anywhere. I'm not assuming that it has any breaks in the wiring, but it could. Three questions,

    First: Is there a way I can test for breaks in that red wire before trying to rip anything apart? Just to avoid ripping the harness apart.

    * Easy to do, you'll need a multimeter though. Disconnect the battery first, and either test continuity with the probes at each end of the red wire or if you can't reach both ends, short the red with another wire that goes to/from the same place to create a loop. 

    Second: The harness connector clip plastic for my injector (plugs into the injector harness) has a break in the plastic. It still plugs into the injector harness just fine, but could this have allowed any loose connection in one of the wires? I think at this point I am just searching for any little thing that could be wrong/causing this issue.

    *Possible, but if both pins look to be seated properly and are fairly tight, it shouldn't be an issue.

    Finally: Does anybody know of a way I can test my ECU out to see if it is bad or not? I am not assuming the ECU is bad just because the car starts up first try every time, and doesn't really run lean/misfire while cruising or driving, but Im assuming it could still be a possibility.

    * Not sure on the diagnostic setup on a G60 and if it has a 2+2, but if so you should be able to connect it to VCDS even if you don't get many options. Worth looking around the menus to see what they say if possible.

    Thank you to all who have helped thus far, and to those that continue to help try to solve this issue.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    3 hours ago, g0ldf1ng3r said:

    no m8 they are different entities

    from what i can see rayne are not even open at the moment 😞

    & from what i remember, without causing offence to rayne, i had heard their looms were not very reliable

    I've got a Rayne loom with OE connectors and it's pretty good quality TBF. Must have had it about 6 or 7 years now and had no issues what so ever. Only slight issue I could find with it is the cable that runs along the front from drivers side headlight to battery is about an inch or two too short, so makes it a little tight when trying to route it nearly. I mentioned it in feedback to him when I bought it so he may have improved it since then. The connectors do need a little force to 'click' into place, but I'm ok with that as I know they're on nice and tight then.

  22. Posted · Edited by seanl82

    8 hours ago, Brian1975 said:

    Wheels are et25 , should have mentioned that!

    I'd go with 205 personally, but you'll need 5-10mm spacers to ensure they won't rub on the arches. You could go with 195 width tyres which will give a light stretch, but I'm not particularly fond of that. Personal choice though.

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