seanl82

If you get the code it can be checked here. http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

I'm pretty sure it'll be the YU clear. It's rare and I've only seen them a couple of times, but there was a 'mushroom beige' I think was only available for early cars. It's a bit darker and a kind of mix between grey & beige.

36 minutes ago, fendervg said:

That looks absolutely amazing, well done and some job. As devil's advocate - is it strong enough in terms of structural integrity or was the original rad support purely cosmetic rather than being able to soak up  some front end impact? I guess most of them would have lost a lot of strength at this stage anyways, but just thinking of safety and MOT etc.

They're not structural, they're very light and pretty much just support the radiator. I'd hazard a guess that a carbon one is much stronger, as the OE ones are no more than 1mm thick.

I've had a genuine battery bag fitted to mine for years with no issues either. My relays are stuck with Velcro to the front of the battery and covered by the bag and I've never had an issue with water ingress and the bag getting damp or wet.

That's shocking, even for aftermarket on the alloy rad. Hella rads were the recommended when I replaced mine in 2014. Still looks like new now - though I've only put about 2k miles on the car since then tbf.

2 hours ago, Keyo said:

Yeah mate some mug could buy that. 

The trouble is, some people just don't do research or ask on forums/Facebook, so assume they're NLA and will pay good money for things. Seen it a million times, and sometimes it's the same with sellers, especially if they've been NLA in the past and have been reproduced (like the grille actually) so reduce the price accordingly when pointed out. Some though are just opportunist thieves imo, like this guy.

You're absolutely gonna do the other two! Lol. I use poor boys natural look gel on my tyres. You can use it on all interior and exterior rubber and plastics as well, it smells great, leaves a nice satin finish, and doesn't fling leaving greasy marks all over the arches and wheels.

Use a MK4 top tensioner and bolt. Perfect fit, more reliable, much more readily available, cheaper and apparently help quieten things down a bit. Think the details are in the wiki

17 minutes ago, fla said:

its certainly quieter than previous years but some of us old timers are still here..

Say what now? - where's my teeth.....

7 hours ago, fendervg said:

Just reading the November Sprinter - Sean's article on ABS sensor troubleshooting and pump repair is excellent, and well worth a read. I've taken the pump units apart a few times, and the main trouble I had was with the two long bolts holding the casing, if they are rounded.

I'm not sure if BBA will still look at Corrado pumps, but it could be worth checking with them - they do have a tester that can check all the valves etc. but generally they will just clean, check operation and replace the PCB with salvaged parts if they can get hold of them - actual replacement parts are not available.

👍

https://www.facebook.com/renewartlleida/

I asked if anyone had one on here a couple of years back and someone offered this up, so I bought it. Sorry I can't give you a supplier though I think there could be some aftermarket ones available. There is a guy on Facebook that does really good quality badges (Renwart), he may be able to help though.

Options 😜

Ringer Storm, or NOS Karmann.

I had mine refurbished by pastparts a few months back. I doubt they'd sell the seal kit separately, and they actually said on the phone that they get their seals from Spain which was why mine took so long to be returned. They usually have a few spare refurbished ones in stock and just exchange you unit when received, but apparently quite a few either exchanged or bought them straight over the early lockdown period. 

It's the B6 dampers in the B12 'kit' so yeah. I don't know about the B4 dampers but imagine it would be, as they'll be the same length due to the application but will have a softer damping and won't be designed to run with a stiffer and shorter spring in the eibach. 

Yeah the correct ones I have fitted now are 8512002. 👍 Good luck with Bilstein. As I put in the post you linked, their customer service was nothing short of disgraceful when I raised the issue with them directly.

Yeah I had them fitted with incorrect springs for a short while. They do sit lower, though probably only 5mm in it. I didn't immediately realise they were wrong as even the rear ride improved a lot over the Weitec coilovers that were on it before. It's not so much the height that's an issue though as much as the spring rate due to the length. The correct part rides so much better again and I'm really pleased with them now. If you bought them new from a genuine supplier, they should be able to sort it out for you.

Amazing vision, but fabrication and electronic understanding need to be next level, which they absolutely are! I doff my hat to you Graham, fantastic work so far and the ultimate resto-mod transferring modern underpinnings to a classic shell. At my age, it's absolutely something I'd love to have - as the yanks say, a turn key classic. 👍

Synta silver 10w40 is the dealer recommended, though they don't stock it anymore and instead stock Castrol Edge. A lot of us use 10w50 now as it seems to quieten the engine/valves down a touch. I use Fuchs Titan. For ease and cost, the Castrol semi 10w40 will suffice though and meets all VW Specs for oil, which I don't think the Mobil 1 does

Corrado graveyard on Facebook will have one. Good guy and reasonable prices too.

If you want to replace them, I'd just go with Pagid disks and pads. They're middle of the road as far as performance goes, and I've been fitting them to countless cars over the past 10 years without issue. Have a look on eurocarparts as they're always pretty cheap anyway, and there are discount codes pretty much all the time.

Yeah VW just sell Castrol Edge now. Makes it easier to purchase elsewhere much cheaper, as the Synta Silver was actually a very good price from VW. I've moved to Fuchs Titan pro race 10w50 now anyway though it is much more expensive, but a modern fully synthetic oil will be much better for our old and well worn in engines I think. 

Rear axle is pretty easy, just keep the mounting bracket bolts loose until the car is back on the floor, roll the car forward a little as they'll move into the correct position then, and torque them up from there. 

Front subframe, the only thing worth mentioning as not in the Bentley is to mount the steering rack and connect the pipes loosely before raising and mounting it, as they're an absolute turd to get on in situ. Make sure the rack is centered too and the steering wheel is straight so the column lines up to the groove for the bolt. That's another PITA as the rubber boot gets in the way! 

Price? colour? Mileage? Some photos would be useful.

I sold a set a couple of years ago as I preferred carpeted ones (have two sets now). The genuine carpet ones were going for decent money at the time too, though do wish I'd kept hold of them now tbh. 😔

1 hour ago, Keyo said:

To be honest mate you recommended it me and I can honestly say it is a fantastic product. 

Did I!? Lol, going senile in my old age as I can't remember that! 😂