seanl82
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Posts posted by seanl82
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1 hour ago, Keyo said:Fixed it for some reason there was an aftermarket inline fuse with a red 10 fuse and that had blown- think the inline fuse is some safety device to stop the light switch setting on fire.
Yep, the OE switches are known to get very hot and break down, and it has been known to cause fires in the past. The inline fuse helps guard against that, and I fitted one too. I'd replace the fuse as it may have blown for a reason, rather than bypassing it. If it goes again, it could be an indication that your switch has had it so keep an eye out.
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24 minutes ago, fendervg said:You'll want to check the fuel pump wires to the boot for continuity to make sure the continuity is there, but chances are there is no power coming from the fuel pump relay. This is switched by the ECU when it sees the engine is turning, but it's possible to use a short wire/paper clip or test lead to bridge the fuel pump relay - this would be my first test. The diagram on the side of the realy will show what pins to bridge. The ECU sees the crank sensor and hall sender signals when the starter is run, and then trips the relay.
Is this correct? The fuel pump relay energises before the engine cranks. Same with the ECU relay. If you remove the fuse box cover, just put your finger on the casing of relays 67 or 167, & 108. You'll feel it ping as it energises so you'll know that power is attempting to be supplied there.
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Thanks for posting. It might be difficult for us guys in the UK to obtain the Mercury Cougar ones anyway, but the Ford Fiesta will be in abundance.
There is someone here who is in correspondence with VW Classic Parts, and they've declared a willingness to produce a run for both sides dependant on numbers. Think there are around 60 so far, but if the same could be done in the States (assuming that's where you're from) I'm sure it would push it over the line for minimum orders required....
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2 minutes ago, Keyo said:Thanks Sean
Update I unpluged these two yellow connectors next to the dim dip.
Sidelights are now working with ingnition on - first click just sidelights - second click medium beam .
So this is correct now I think guYs.
Is it just best to electrical tape the yellow connectors and that is all I need to do - are there any bad side effects for unplugging these ?
Thanks
Yep, that sounds right. 👍
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Yeah first click should be low beam, second main beam. Just disconnect the yellow plug for the resistor. I've just left home but can get some pics later if you like
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15 minutes ago, Dox said:Sorry skim read what you said
👍
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39 minutes ago, Dox said:If dim dip is connected you'll only have sidelights with ignition off, if they test with ignition on they should fail it - but who drives with sidelights anyway?
Yeah my dim dip resistor is disconnected.
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I've got the rayne automotive loom too. My dim dip is disconnected, and I've never had an issue with MOT. As long as you have side lights, main beam and high beam then it conforms to legal requirements
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6 hours ago, vw rule said:Not 100% sure but think that seal in question possibly fit's behind grill, close to top of air con rad, might even help to seal under front edge of the top plastic fan guard. Plus as the 4 cyl & 6 cyl engine's have different sized / shaped top fan guards, hence the possible need to cut the seal down a bit to fit ?
According to Classic Parts the standard uncut seal measurements are:
Length 481mm / width 29mm / hight 9mm
Yeah I know the bottom door seal you mean, I bought one when they were still available back in 2006, they normally only last 8 to 10 years if you're lucky, the plastic clips would break up or the seal would split / tear. They cost something like £65 to £70 back then per side.
Si
Really!? Mine are still there in excellent shape, and were removed/refitted with new clips when I had the respray.
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31 minutes ago, Keyo said:Has anyone ever seen this seal before Im not familiar with it . No 7 on diagram.
https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/corrado/cor/1994-76/8/853-158000/#7
Says for vehicles with A/C
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As title, does anyone have one fitted, do they fit under the Corrado seats and are they any good?
I've got infinity components in the front door pockets and JBL 6x4s in the rear shelf, and though the sound is now much crisper there is next to zero base. I'm not after anything daft, just something similar to a modern day car sound system which I think a small sub should give me. I'm after an active one (integrated amp) that plugs directly to the stereo ideally.
I don't want to be running power cables from the battery etc as I don't need big power, just something nice and simple that can be hidden and will add something without spending big.
Any recommendations welcome. 👍
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Fuel cap locking? I know it'll keep going if it senses low vacuum pressure at the locks, so could be linked to that?
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Wow, that stuff looks fantastic! How strong does repair feel?
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16 minutes ago, fla said:keep coming back to looking at a Rotrex for some reason. It think it seems at though you dont need to do too many extensive engine mods as with a VRT
Anyway my questions are these:
- Other than the supercharger, belt, adapter plate and pulley what else would be required
- Injectors? If so which ones?
- uprated head bolts or any other bolts?
- Can the aircon condenser still be used at the front?
- Is an intercooler required?
- Any other mods or adjustments, machining etc required?
Mine is an OBD2 with a schrick
Thanks
Oil supply or return hose and tap the sump I believe, and obviously a remap or standalone ECU. Charge cooler and associated pipework/mocal oil cooler. I'm not certain all of these are required if low boost, but something to think about. If a charge cooler is required, I don't think you'll be able to retain the A/C
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Spot on, thanks mate. They have the Lockyear logo for the sticker listed so shouldn't be an issue producing the plates hopefully. I'll fire them a message and ask. I have the original tax disk holder surprisingly.
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On 7/13/2020 at 8:53 PM, Cressa said:Great attention to detail there mate! 👌
Where did you get your dealer plates? I've seen the window sticker from DMB but not sure if they do plates as well. Something I'd like to get too. 👍
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Think they're 25 as mentioned. Not at home to check til tomorrow though unfortunately. It's definitely in the Bentley though.
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Oh I see! I wasn't paying attention properly on the links so didn't notice the bits on the side. 😖
Thinking about it now, If I remember correctly there are cutouts on the chassis legs that receive the speed nuts which, I imagine the undertray would bolt up to.....
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2 minutes ago, Dox said:Its a good 10 years since I had a MK3 tdi estate, the sides fit to the chassis legs I think, the front would have to be either a trim or a patch job depending on length. The sump hole would need widening too (this would dictate position?).
Ah ok fair enough. I had a MK3 GTI 8v which from what I can remember, didn't have an undertray so speculation on my behalf. I thought the chassis legs would be too high as they rise up in the engine bay, to be able to mount an undertray to them.
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Fair point, but I suppose it depends where the mounting points are. The subframe will be the same as a MK3 which I think will be where it bolts too, along with the x-member or front bumper.
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12 hours ago, Keyo said:Interesting chap cant help but feel a guard under the engine would be a huge plus although lets be honest these cars do not tend to see bad weather anymore as mostly weekend cars.
I agree mate, really frustrating when if you do have to run it in the wet, the filth ends up coating even the bonnet soundproofing it's so bad!
9 hours ago, Keyo said:Sure im just wondering which would be closer a Mk2 golf or a MK3 . You would need to modify no dealt and make some fixings but worth it I would say. I know on a M2 floor pan it is the same part number as a Corrado.
Product Vehicle Years Golf Mk2 1984 - 1992 Jetta 1984 - 1992 Corrado 1989 - 1995 https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/191803205c-floorpan-half-left.html
I think being plus axle, it's more likely to be MK3 for fixing points at the front
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8 minutes ago, Keyo said:Yeah I think his budget was to low back then to be fair - might of got him in a tiptronic. A 993 turbo in midnight blue would be a dream or a red 964 for me also - well missed the boat on that one- had a chance to buy one in 2004 964 c2 white with blue leather - oh well they were very unloved then !
Yeah I love the 964 too. Think it's the wraparound rear light strip that I like so much which is common on both. I remember as a kid, my Grandads mate had one and took me out for a spin. The butterflies in my stomach as he accelerated had me hooked then! Lol
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Those nice shiny bits in the bay were fitted in 2014/15. I had to run it as a daily for about 3 months in 2016 which was a bit upsetting at the state of it afterwards! 😞
Karmann the Corrado
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Small wins. 😉😆