
seanl82
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Posts posted by seanl82
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He's given me quotes for a few things at ridiculous prices. Wanted £100 for a throttle cable. Told him they could be bought new for £65 from a Latvian eBay seller and he was trying to have my pants down, and he just said fine, get that then. I ended up buying one and a front splitter bracket from Corrado graveyard for £50 posted and he was great. Higgins fella is a whopper though.
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Could be MAF as well then. If happening whilst accelerating, it's common to stutter/hesitate around the 3k rpm mark.
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Posted · Edited by seanl82
You can buy them new. I had a couple saved in my eBay watch list a few months back but didn't need it in the end. There was one listed for Corrado (quite expensive) or one listed for MK2 or MK3 Golf iirc which was much cheaper and appeared exactly the same, though it was a pattern part I think.
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I tried this method. Unfortunately the threaded bar sheared twice! (It was long enough to begin with to have a second attempt). Had to take it to a VW specialist in the end. The only bit of work I've ever had to pay for aside from MOT & geometry on my car.
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Sounds like a decent plan there. The bolts that go through the brackets in to the bushes can foul on the sill lip, so removing with the brackets in place makes sense. Dropping the back where the brakes mount onto some lumber is good, though it doesn't go down all the way to the floor when the rear suspension is removed anyway. Put a jack under the cross section at the front, remove all the bolts then lower it down from there. It's not as heavy as you'd think, so should be easy enough to manoeuvre out.
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Posted · Edited by seanl82
I think despite it being awfully made and leaking, I doubt you'll see a great deal of difference in temps. As above, oil temp is what you need to monitor really. The thermostat opens at 87 degrees so water temps shouldn't really rise above that unless there are genuine problems or it's really hot weather.
You don't really want a standard motor running much lower either - even though some fit lower temp stats - as the oil won't be in the optimum performance range and the map will be compensating to those temps so over fuelling.
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205/50 seems the best option, sadly much more expensive than 195/50. I had thought speedlines were ET35 but are ET43 so that messed with some of my "will they fit" tests. Although I am comparing to speedlines the car these will be going on is the 16v which has factory "westwood" alloys with 195 50 tyres. They look undertyred to me and the alloys compared to speedlines and sit pretty inbound in the arch - they're 6J and ET35 so 205 50 seems to be the way to go.
Yeah the 205/50 are not a very common size so much more expensive than 195. I have a pair of budget Runway tyres that are about 4 years old now, but have never seen the road. Yours for £20 + postage if you want them?
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205 should be ok for 7" wheels. I had 205 on 7.5" which gave a little stretch (necessity rather than choice) so I think they would be perfectly good on 7". 50 is the only profile for 15" wheels, 45 = 16", 40 = 17". You'll mess with the rolling radius and put your Speedo out past 5% iirc which is max difference allowed to remain legal. You should be good with an offset of ET30 as well on that width of wheel.
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They're an absolute arse to get in! I had to use a load of silicon grease, and I managed to get them in by using a large long screwdriver through the hole (ooh err), with the handle at the bottom and sort of pulled them in. Took a lot of force and rocking/going around in circles whilst pulling but they eventually slipped in. 😉
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That Heritage rant has just reminded me. I ordered the foam bonnet filler pieces months ago and I've never received them! I've always had decent service with Heritage previously. Speak to Anna on here, she'll sort it out for you.
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If you get the code it can be checked here. http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx
I'm pretty sure it'll be the YU clear. It's rare and I've only seen them a couple of times, but there was a 'mushroom beige' I think was only available for early cars. It's a bit darker and a kind of mix between grey & beige.
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That looks absolutely amazing, well done and some job. As devil's advocate - is it strong enough in terms of structural integrity or was the original rad support purely cosmetic rather than being able to soak up some front end impact? I guess most of them would have lost a lot of strength at this stage anyways, but just thinking of safety and MOT etc.
They're not structural, they're very light and pretty much just support the radiator. I'd hazard a guess that a carbon one is much stronger, as the OE ones are no more than 1mm thick.
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I've had a genuine battery bag fitted to mine for years with no issues either. My relays are stuck with Velcro to the front of the battery and covered by the bag and I've never had an issue with water ingress and the bag getting damp or wet.
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That's shocking, even for aftermarket on the alloy rad. Hella rads were the recommended when I replaced mine in 2014. Still looks like new now - though I've only put about 2k miles on the car since then tbf.
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Posted · Edited by seanl82
Yeah mate some mug could buy that.
The trouble is, some people just don't do research or ask on forums/Facebook, so assume they're NLA and will pay good money for things. Seen it a million times, and sometimes it's the same with sellers, especially if they've been NLA in the past and have been reproduced (like the grille actually) so reduce the price accordingly when pointed out. Some though are just opportunist thieves imo, like this guy.
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You're absolutely gonna do the other two! Lol. I use poor boys natural look gel on my tyres. You can use it on all interior and exterior rubber and plastics as well, it smells great, leaves a nice satin finish, and doesn't fling leaving greasy marks all over the arches and wheels.
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Use a MK4 top tensioner and bolt. Perfect fit, more reliable, much more readily available, cheaper and apparently help quieten things down a bit. Think the details are in the wiki
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Just reading the November Sprinter - Sean's article on ABS sensor troubleshooting and pump repair is excellent, and well worth a read. I've taken the pump units apart a few times, and the main trouble I had was with the two long bolts holding the casing, if they are rounded.
I'm not sure if BBA will still look at Corrado pumps, but it could be worth checking with them - they do have a tester that can check all the valves etc. but generally they will just clean, check operation and replace the PCB with salvaged parts if they can get hold of them - actual replacement parts are not available.
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What 80's - 90s cars for sale have caught your eye recently.
in General Car Chat
Posted
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/417050712792334/?ref=facebook_story_share
Not seen one of these before.....