G60 blue temp sender

[stevemac 0]

Your blue temp sensor is unlikely to be the problem in this instance. Hunting on idle is usually caused when the engine is "dragging" air in. Often this is a leaking inlet manifold gasket.

Let the engine idle & spray WD40 around the joint between the inlet manifold & the cylinder head. Any corresponding alteration in engine revs & you've found your problem.

[biggrim 0]

Thanks Steve. Can you point me in the right direction please?

[scaw 0]

dubmad said: i think i have the same problem since gettin it back from the tuning garage it really doesnt like to idle when i start it from cold.

 

If you've got it chipped, maybe that's what's causing the problem? Not just a faulty sensor?

 

Edit: I see you've had work done on your head. nm, then.. :?

[biggrim 0]

Still having the same problem as before guys. It went away after a few days and ran fine for a couple of weeks. Then when the fuel tank was getting low, it started to run bad again. I've checked the plugs and they were a little black so gave them a clean. Made no difference. Unplugged BTS and car stalled so I'm thinking that is ok. Checked dizzy and rotor arm and they look a bit dirty so cleaned them up best I could but still no change. I'm now having trouble starting the car. Any ideas.... I'm really stuck?

 

Cheers

[VEEDUBBED 0]

Rig up a mech. fuel press. gauge and see what fuel pressure you've got on first starting the engine,99% of the time the pumps tired and needs 3 turns on the ignition to prime the system,try it and see if it makes a difference.

[biggrim 0]

Ok, looks like I've made a bit of progress on this front. Had a read at a post Henny made a while back that listed 4 common areas that cause G60's to run like a bag o' dung.

 

4 - Dead lambda.

 

Well not quite.

 

Had a look at where the lambda plug goes on the engine mount and look what I discovered.

 

The black wire had completely corroded away leaving no connection and the brown one a broke trying to figure out how and if I can get the connectors out to re-wire it.

 

I take it that this is the most likely reason for my recent running problems?

 

So I have 2 questions.

 

Can I re-wire this myself or do I have to buy a new loom?

 

Can I run my car with the lambda unplugged without killing it?

 

Cheers,

 

Grim

[biggrim 0]

Anyone?

 

Can't have the car off the road for too long as I need it for work.

[Henny 0]

remove the plug completely from both parts (ie engine loom plug -> bin, and lambda plug -> bin ) and then use spade terminal connectors (crimp on, insulated ones!!!) to connect the wires back up again... simply cable tie 'em to where the original plug went to keep 'em off the exhaust manifold... ;)

 

This'll allow you to easily change the lambda sensor in the future should it fail, keep the existing wiring loom and won't cost you much at all...

 

Personally, I'd also then wrap the lot in insulation tape to waterproof it a bit better, but that's just me... ;) :lol:

[biggrim 0]

Cool Henny, ledgend. I'll give it a go tonight hopefully.

 

Hopefully I'll get the wires the right way round and not make a complete arse of it.

 

I'll keep you posted.

[biggrim 0]

Update-

 

Fixed the Lambda wiring. Still running like a bag o' poo!!!!!

A slightly better bag o' poo but a bag o' poo none the less.

Seemed ok to start, but was hesitant through low revs, then picked up, flat spot at around 3.5K then just flew. That was last night.

The drive to work this morning was a tad kangarooey.

 

Should I have disconnected and reconnected the battery when sorting the wiring? Does the ECU learn after runnung like a bitch? Have I missed something simple when sorting the wiring?

 

When I checked the dizzy and rotor arm they were both quite dirty. After cleaning them the best i could, the rotor still had little black bits on the contact as do the contacts on the dizzy. I suppose changing these might help sort my problem?

 

Any other suggestions?

Bad earth?

Lambda wiring not quite right?

AAAAARRRRRRGGGGGHH!!!!!

[Henny 0]

that sounds exactly like a dodgy vacuum hose to the ECU mate... You sure it's on the correct nipple?

[biggrim 0]

It's on the same nipple it's always been on matey. Could just be buggered I guess. Worthwhile spending £6 at the stealer for a new length of hose then? Cut to 1m and good clips at each end?

[Henny 0]

yup, deffo worth it... 8)

[biggrim 0]

Is it just jubilee clips to hold the vac hose on between the TB and the ECU or should I get the VAG clips?

[Supercharged 2]

Just use cable ties...

[biggrim 0]

Good call supercharged. Picking the vac hose up on Friday hopefully. Driving the car just now sucks cause it looks like i've not yet mastered clutch control.

[biggrim 0]

So the drive home from work yesterday was a great laugh!!!!

Car cut out on me 3 times sat at traffic lights and just before it died sounded like it wasn't firing on all cylinders (or at least how I imagine that would sound). Decided to pop into Halfords and replace the dizzy and rotor arm - no difference made.

 

When I got home I took the vac hose off the back of the TB and ECU and measured it - exactly 1m in length. Will replace it tonight anyway just incase it's got a leak.

 

Funny thing is, when I was on a quiet bit of road and gave it some right foot action as the car climbed the rev range there was a whistle/psssht noise just before changing gear. Possible boost pipe leak?

 

And when it was idling (well spluttering) in the drive there was a little black smoke coming out the exhaust.

 

Could the dodgy lambda wiring in any way make the timing jump out of well, time?

 

Getting quite worried and annoyed. Had to get a lift into work again today but I'm gonna need the car sorted for the start of next month so I can do my job.

 

:cry:

[biggrim 0]

Replaced the hose from tb to ecu. Exactly 1m in unstretched length. No difference. Car starts to run fine then after 10-15 secs starts to run like a harley. What the hell is going on???

[biggrim 0]

Does this look humped to anyone???

[Supercharged 2]

Doesn't look great (I'd check your coolant mix) but you can only tell if it's working by sticking it in a pan with a multimeter attached.

[biggrim 0]

Will do that today at some point. What if when i did the lambda wiring, i didn't do it right and have a dodgy (or non-existant) connection. What's this limp mode that the ecu goes into?

[biggrim 0]

Ok!

 

Checked the lambda wiring to make sure everything was ok and everything seemed fine. I crimped the connections some more just to be sure. Blue temp sender is working and vac hose to ecu has been replaced by a new 1m length of hose. Also replaced the dizzy and rotor arm.

 

Took the car a run last night and everything was fine untill the engine temp hit 100 deg and coolant started to pour out the expansion bottle. Someone forgot to tighten the lid properly :oops: .

 

Anyway, let the car cool down and topped up the coolant. Sorted.

 

Or so I thought.

 

Got in the car this morning to go to work and was back to running like a bag o shite.

 

Anyone got any idea what is going on?????

 

Please?

[Crasher 3]

I have had a few G60 ECU's go faulty in this way recently. If you have a friend with a G60, try running your ECU on his car to see if it behaves the same. Don't put a good ECU onto a suspect car though as you may end up with two faulty ECU's. If your friend’s car behaves in the same way as yours, you know the ECU is playing up but before fitting a replacement, you need to know why it failed.

[biggrim 0]

Good Idea crasher but there's no one I know with a G60, only VR's. Trying to figure out the problem is going to be a nightmare. I hope it's not the ecu though cause they're not cheap.

[biggrim 0]

Just been out to check the plugs. After cleaning them about a week and a half ago (they were all black) they are now the same black state they were then. So there is deffo a fueling issue.

 

Question is, what is causeing it to overfuel?

 

Answers on a post card to the usual address.