.Rich. 0 Posted September 23, 2005 After reading what happened to darren (g-werks kid) regarding his cambelt, i have decided for piece of mind i will change the belt on my valver. And due to me being a tight bastard im going to give it a bash myself. So i have a few quetions (which have enevitable been asked before, i know). 1. As there is no haynes corrado manual, is the process the same for a golf/passat which does have a manual? If not, does anyone have an online manual i can see (email me the page or summat ). 2. Where is the cheapest place to get a belt? they are £11 on this site: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_belts.php But when i swap the belt would you advise i also do the tensioner? 3. What tool do i need to tension the belt? And where can i get one? Any other additional warnings etc you want to give me then feel free :) Rich Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bally 0 Posted September 23, 2005 I have no idea.. lol I paid £100 to get myn replaced as the tensioner died at a leic rado meet.. belt & tensioner cost me £65 which was too much but couldnt find anyone at the time to supply a belt at short notice.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JBOB 0 Posted September 23, 2005 I got a Bosch belt £13 and the tensioner for £18 from GSF :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted September 23, 2005 gsf for the parts as said a mk2 golf or passat haynes will be fine there is a special tool for the tensioner , but you can use circlip pliers or even a kitchen fork with 2 ends bent over...youl see better when you have it apart , you just need 2 prongs to fit into the holes when you tension it..have a listen it shouldnt howl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.Rich. 0 Posted September 23, 2005 ta boys, will check it out! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keithmac 0 Posted September 23, 2005 I paid £30 for a vag tensioner (SFK?), had a pattern (INA) one go wrong after very little milage, belt wasn`t overtightened.. It`s not bad to do but quite a few people get them a tooth out which makes the car flat to drive (suppose it depends which way you go). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted September 24, 2005 make sure you turn it over by hand a few turns ...make sure your 100% happy with the timing marks before starting the tension can be fine tuned after youve had a listen to it running Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Heath 0 Posted September 25, 2005 Goin to replace my cambelt on my valver, its done 136k is it worth me changin my tensioner Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted September 25, 2005 Goin to replace my cambelt on my valver, its done 136k is it worth me changin my tensioner yeah for sure Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bix 0 Posted September 25, 2005 you can get the belt tight enough but just pulling the tensioner..hard, it isnt worth not changing the tensioner! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Heath 0 Posted September 25, 2005 These prone to goin then?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keithmac 0 Posted September 25, 2005 It`s not worth the risk, for a £20 - £30 part. If it seizes quicky and snaps the belt it`ll take the engine out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted September 26, 2005 My local VW dealership insists on changing the tensioner and cambelt at the same time. They've been burned too many times with worn tensioners failing shortly after fitting a new belt. The peace of mind is priceless. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.Rich. 0 Posted October 7, 2005 I am having alot of problems getting the crankshaft pulley off. I have removed the four bolts holding the two (one small, one large) pulleys on and i have marked the both pulleys posistions against the crankshaft nut. The smaller pulley at the front came off easy, but i cannot shift the larger pulley (which i think is called the 'crankshaft pulley'). there are 4threaded holes through it which i have tried tightening the screws into to prize it off, but it doesn't even move. What is best practice to get this pulley off so i can remove the lower casing? I dont need to remove the crankshaft nut do i? Rich Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.Rich. 0 Posted October 7, 2005 ok i searched properly and have found the answer. Which is: HAMMER TIME! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veeDuB_Rado 0 Posted October 7, 2005 ok i searched properly and have found the answer. Which is: HAMMER TIME! :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.Rich. 0 Posted October 8, 2005 HELP MEEEE! i have removed the crankshaft pulley but how the fuck do you get the lower timing belt cover off? its just stuck behind the other 2pulleys which i cannot take off because the pulley just spins. Do i need to remove those pulley's? haynes doesn't suggest this. getting annoyed with this as everything seems to be stuck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted October 8, 2005 Yeah you have to take a least the water pump pulley off, You may be able to move the steering pump far enough out of the way to get the cover past it. Don't forget there is a nut on one of the waterpump bolts that holds the cover on too. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.Rich. 0 Posted October 10, 2005 Everything went fairly smoothly after the pulleys came off, yet i think its abit tight as it makes a whooshing drone noise, will the belt loosen or should i re-adjust the tensioner? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted October 10, 2005 re ajust it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites