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.Rich.

1.8 16v cambelt change [NEED HELP - AGAIN]

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After reading what happened to darren (g-werks kid) regarding his cambelt, i have decided for piece of mind i will change the belt on my valver.

And due to me being a tight bastard im going to give it a bash myself. So i have a few quetions (which have enevitable been asked before, i know).

 

1. As there is no haynes corrado manual, is the process the same for a golf/passat which does have a manual? If not, does anyone have an online manual i can see (email me the page or summat :p).

 

2. Where is the cheapest place to get a belt? they are £11 on this site: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_belts.php

But when i swap the belt would you advise i also do the tensioner?

 

3. What tool do i need to tension the belt? And where can i get one?

 

Any other additional warnings etc you want to give me then feel free :)

 

Rich

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I have no idea.. lol

 

I paid £100 to get myn replaced as the tensioner died at a leic rado meet.. belt & tensioner cost me £65 which was too much but couldnt find anyone at the time to supply a belt at short notice..

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gsf for the parts as said

 

a mk2 golf or passat haynes will be fine

 

there is a special tool for the tensioner , but you can use circlip pliers or even a kitchen fork with 2 ends bent over...youl see better when you have it apart , you just need 2 prongs to fit into the holes

 

when you tension it..have a listen it shouldnt howl

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I paid £30 for a vag tensioner (SFK?), had a pattern (INA) one go wrong after very little milage, belt wasn`t overtightened..

 

It`s not bad to do but quite a few people get them a tooth out which makes the car flat to drive (suppose it depends which way you go).

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make sure you turn it over by hand a few turns ...make sure your 100% happy with the timing marks before starting

 

the tension can be fine tuned after youve had a listen to it running

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you can get the belt tight enough but just pulling the tensioner..hard, it isnt worth not changing the tensioner!

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My local VW dealership insists on changing the tensioner and cambelt at the same time. They've been burned too many times with worn tensioners failing shortly after fitting a new belt. The peace of mind is priceless.

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I am having alot of problems getting the crankshaft pulley off. I have removed the four bolts holding the two (one small, one large) pulleys on and i have marked the both pulleys posistions against the crankshaft nut.

 

The smaller pulley at the front came off easy, but i cannot shift the larger pulley (which i think is called the 'crankshaft pulley'). there are 4threaded holes through it which i have tried tightening the screws into to prize it off, but it doesn't even move.

 

What is best practice to get this pulley off so i can remove the lower casing? I dont need to remove the crankshaft nut do i?

 

Rich

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HELP MEEEE!

 

i have removed the crankshaft pulley but how the fuck do you get the lower timing belt cover off? its just stuck behind the other 2pulleys which i cannot take off because the pulley just spins. Do i need to remove those pulley's? haynes doesn't suggest this.

 

getting annoyed with this as everything seems to be stuck.

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Yeah you have to take a least the water pump pulley off, You may be able to move the steering pump far enough out of the way to get the cover past it.

 

Don't forget there is a nut on one of the waterpump bolts that holds the cover on too.

 

Gavin

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Everything went fairly smoothly after the pulleys came off, yet i think its abit tight as it makes a whooshing drone noise, will the belt loosen or should i re-adjust the tensioner?

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