Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 1, 2014 Mine never looked like that. I cut that mounting lug off and used a rubberised P clamp to secure it elsewhere to the block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted July 9, 2014 I've got a MK4 Pas on mine which sits a bit low and worries me. Kip do you have a pic of yours? Yes here you are pal, not the best pic but all I have at the moment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted July 17, 2014 So I've just plugged my car into Vagcom for the first time in ages to try and fix an ABS fault and thought I'd check the engine codes whilst I was there. I had a fault pointing at the EVAP pump being open circuit. Did anyone else fit the pump? I must admit I don't recall seeing it on the wiring, but I could easily be wrong. I fitted the 24v EVAP solenoid, but not the pump- I didn't even know they existed until I just googled it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 18, 2014 It should be cleared if you fitted the relay? I believe throwing an evap fault will mean you're not getting long term adaption! My setup doesn't have that fault, I used a high wattage resistor as a dummy load. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 18, 2014 You need to wire in a relay 100 for the sai code and a 330 ohm resistor for the evap code. You need both for the adaption to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the reply guys, but I'm still a bit confused!! So I have a my N80 EVAP soleniod wired in exactly the same as the Audi diagram- power from Fuel Pump Relay, switched earth to J220/64 I also have a resistor simulating the N112 Secondary Air inlet Valve - power from Fuel pump relay and switched earth to J220/44 I got rid of any SAI pump errors by fitting a resistor to simulate a load across the relay, I cant remember how many ohms it was as it was years ago, but I don't have any SAI fault codes. For reference the power feed to the resistor also comes from the fuel pump relay, with a switched earth to J220/46. I could replace the resistor with a relay but not sure this would gain anything? The error I am getting is '17881 P1473 EVAP Leak Detection Pump: Open Circuit'. From googling it, I'm not sure if the UK cars even have EVAP leak detection pumps.. Has anyone else had this code? Where are you guys putting the EVAP resistors? Edited July 18, 2014 by KipVR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted July 20, 2014 F*****G SWICT, really hope you're reading this! Well after doing a few miles on the car and reading the codes again...... Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BDB.lbl Control Module Part Number: 022 906 032 CB HW: Bas isX 3 Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1G 8088 Software Coding: 0000178 Work Shop Code: WSC 06314 000 00000 VCID: 4D9B77EDD4CA3F1 19 Faults Found: 28823 - No Communications with Airbag Control Module U0151 - 008 - 28776 - No Communication with Cruise Control Module U0104 - 008 - 28827 - No Communication with Instrument Cluster U0155 - 008 - - MIL ON 18045 - Powertrain Data Bus P1637 - 008 - Missing Message from Electric Load Controller 28798 - No Communications with Steering Angle Sender (G85) U0126 - 008 - 28836 - No Communications with HVAC Control Module (J301) U0164 - 008 - 28773 - No Communication with Transmission Control Module U0101 - 008 - - MIL ON 28793 - No Communication with ABS Brake Control Module U0121 - 008 - - MIL ON 17841 - Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) P1433 - 004 - Open Circuit - MIL ON 17840 - Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve (N112) P1432 - 004 - Open Circuit - MIL ON 18335 - Relay for Aux Coolant Pump (J496) P1927 - 004 - Open Circuit - MIL ON 16440 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S2: Heating Circuit P0056 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit - MIL ON 16420 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Heating Circuit P0036 - 004 - Malfunction / Open Circuit - MIL ON 18080 - Coolant Fan Control 1 P1672 - 004 - Open or Short to Ground - MIL ON 16525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2; Heating Circuit P0141 - 004 - Malfunction - MIL ON 16545 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S2; Heating Circuit P0161 - 004 - Malfunction - MIL ON 16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor P0501 - 004 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON 17925 - Power Supply Relay for ECU (J271 or J363) P1517 - 004 - Electrical Malfunction - MIL ON 17069 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (J271) P0685 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent Seems as well as botching the immo and fubaring the ECU, he didn't do much else he was supposed to do either! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted July 20, 2014 Wow that's a long list. Looking at them you can understand the majority of the error codes, but that doesn't explain why mine has only 6 and yours has all those! Done by swict too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted July 20, 2014 It certainly is. I think swict had something to do with some wiring on my car but I am running DTA management and have to say everything was fine on mine after I got the local DTA agent to set it up right. Beforehand however it was running too rich up until when you would want it to be where of course it was running a little silly lean. Sorted now and I get mid 30's mpg not bad for an R32. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted July 20, 2014 There's quite a few there that he told me I wouldn't have to worry about, rear lambdas being the main thing I'm ****ed off about! I just bought another VR to cheer myself up lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 20, 2014 If you send your ECU to United Motorsports, They will do the correct programming for you for £100 posted back to you. Where are you Chris? If you're localish I could maybe help out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borachris 0 Posted July 20, 2014 Cheers Sean but I'm miles away in the northeast mate, it's just one mess after another with this bloody thing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 20, 2014 You'll enjoy it once it's done though Chris, keep plodding! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted July 24, 2014 I second that, I've only got the 2.8 and that is a different beast to the 12v, I expect you'll have ear to ear grin everytime you drive it , once it's sorted. Hang in ther, we know what you're going through Corrados don't like transplants!!! You'll enjoy it once it's done though Chris, keep plodding! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 24, 2014 Definitely, goes much much better than a 12v. I don't drive like my arse is on fire normally but it has so much torque that you can drive it like a diesel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 25, 2014 I never bothered with resistors. I just left the relays and solenoids in place. Zero errors. Why bother with resistors? A small solenoid or relay doesn't exactly fill the engine bay and the ECU is seeing the expected load / signal :) That big long list of faults is what you see when you put a deimmobilised ME7 into a conversion before it's had all the CAN accessories switched off. Nice work SWICT, as ever! It definitely is worth the perseverance although I'm with Clumpy. My R32 conversion was also a lot better run from a standalone ECU. Better mpg & smoother power band. The problem with trying to put ME7 into a conversion is like trying to connect a Mac Pro up to a floppy disk, CD rom, DLT tape drive and a 15" VGA monitor. Yeah it's possible but the two environments are not happy bed partners. IMO, someone like QPENG should sell a plug & play standalone solution for R32s as well as 1.8Ts. That way the modern engine is properly harmonised to it's ancient host. Anyway, as good as the R32 is in a decent conversion, I'm sorry boys, it's even better in it's intended host :) Loads more torque and it just feels better hooked up to 4WD and a dual mass flywheel. Mind you, that same feeling is possible in the Corrado I suppose. Hmmmm...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 25, 2014 I wonder how much power you could get out of an AUE lump on stand alone? The stock 204 feels fairly conservative. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 25, 2014 I've seen mention on the Vortex of a 2.8 block with R32 head, cams, standalone and what not that's making a lot of power. Way more than an R32. It wouldn't be a cheap path though! Not sure what the AUE is capable of but it's a decent strong engine. You just can't get any tuning bits for it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted July 25, 2014 How advanced is the stand alone stuff these days Kev? It's a subject I've not really looked deeply into. I'm sure you're a bit biased towards stand alone but is it worth all of the extra cost to the people who don't treat each journey as a voyage on a private test track? For me I love the turn key reliability in all weather's and times of day or year that comes with oem mapping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted July 28, 2014 Very, but the good ones come at a cost! I'm not biased at all. I had great results when all the OEM fan boys like United Motorsport and Vortexers said what I set out to achieve was impossible and a waste of money. They were completely wrong. I wanted the same traffic manners as OEM also and I achieved it by nothing more than careful tuning. In fact, mine drove better than factory in some scenarios as I wasn't restricted by the same governance that OEMs are :) Standalones aren't for everyone, which is why I suggested someone like QPENG ought to investigate a P&P solution. I mean, everyone and I mean *EVERYONE* who has done a 24V conversion has run into problems. The hardware is a piece of cake, it just falls in, but like I say, persuading ME7 to run in a Corrado with 70% of it's limbs missing throws up big challenges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clumpy1 11 Posted July 28, 2014 Mine on DTA you wouldn't know it's not standard it's not hard to drive in town traffic unlike some oem which have been "staged" plus you can dial in loads more with standalone regarding everything which you can't with OEM. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted August 5, 2014 Well I finally have a running 3.2! Now my attention has turned to the little bits... The tacho is not working, I've been told that apparently the ecu sends an analogue signal out but has no pin, so I've put the pin in, now kev tells me apparently it doesn't... Bugger! So I have a couple of options, either piggy back off the coil or get a canbus adapter. Now thinking about the canbus adapter I might be able to use the oil temp sensor from sump and get the tacho working. Anyone got any advise on what canbus adapter is suitable? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fanjita 1 Posted August 14, 2014 my canbus adaptor was from can m8, works like a charm too, no lag whatsoever Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted September 7, 2014 Wow taken me a week to read through this and ended up signing up As there is good folk are on here with plenty of patience and very informative But I can't find if anyone has used the obd2 ecu from the golf mk3 vr6 with a 24v 2.8 swap? Yes the vvt and inlet flaps will be lost but has anyone here done it? Thank you Zak Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J.C 10 Posted September 7, 2014 To dismiss the loss of the inlet flaps is to dismiss the best part of the 24v engine, the inlet tuning gives torque throughout the rev range, Why are thinking of using OBD2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
