24V Renshaw 0 Posted March 3, 2006 Well the new SEAT rack has arrived and its absolutely identical to the VR6 one. It has the same splines and the same pipe unions. I have yet to compare the lock but I have a feeling that will be indentical too. So at somepoint after Ultimate Dubs I will fit it and give the results. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 3, 2006 Did anyone replace the ARB drop links? Are the bushes for the links available separately? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 3, 2006 Yes and No.... I think Phat has a good point about the angle of the tie rods. I've got cheap arse GSF ones in mine at the moment.....I might shove some dealer ones in and see if that helkps.....not nice at £75 each tho. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 3, 2006 I've got dealer-supply tie rods on mine, and my suspension is at the normal height... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N_TaG 0 Posted March 3, 2006 so that Seat rack wont fit onto my '89 1.8 16v? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
destructiv dave 0 Posted March 3, 2006 It will physically fit, but the number of splines may be different (you may have 36 as opposed to 22 on the later racks), but you can get hold of the corresponding part from quite a few other donor cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted March 3, 2006 Did anyone replace the ARB drop links? Are the bushes for the links available separately? Yep, Mine has brand new ARB drop links. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted March 3, 2006 My drop links are original but they have brand new bushes. Just a thought, has anyone considered the knock when reversing out of driveways etc could be the anti role bar sticking in it's bushes between the subfame and body, and then losing grip and rotating within the bush slightly. I always feel the knock comes from that area. My ARB mounts are all poly, but I'm sure it could happen with oem ones too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 3, 2006 Yes, that was going to be my next query. Has anyone looked at the area where the ARB mounts to the subframe..? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted March 3, 2006 I think its worth investigating, a small amount of lubricant which does not attack the rubber may be worth a go. I am convinced that it is something like this or possibly as dr_mat suggests, slight movement of the subframe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted March 3, 2006 It will physically fit, but the number of splines may be different (you may have 36 as opposed to 22 on the later racks), but you can get hold of the corresponding part from quite a few other donor cars. As Geo said, a toledo UJ will do the job apparently, if you can't get hold of a later style 22 spline Corrado one, toledo's can be newer too, up to the mk4 golf based ones I guess, 1997?. I've found a 1995 50,000 mile Ibiza rack, but I'm still looking for a 2001 donor car ideally. David. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted March 3, 2006 Look for a brand new one. I only paid £75 for mine and I know its completely new, rather than one with x miles on it. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A20 LEE 0 Posted March 3, 2006 Look for a brand new one. I only paid £75 for mine and I know its completely new, rather than one with x miles on it. Jay Think, i'll be buying one too!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 3, 2006 Yeah but you got it off ebay ... chances of stumbling on another one at that price are pretty slim! Even with employee discount from ZF you're looking at £300 for a brand new rack. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted March 3, 2006 I think I timed it right then, beat you lot to it :) Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted March 3, 2006 i think id better keep my spare rack with 35k on it then Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
N_TaG 0 Posted March 6, 2006 My problem has now been diagnosed.....the knocking was being caused by the rack being loose. The holes on the rack that the bolts go through have enlarged and so the fit is not perfect hense the slipping. Tightening up the bolts has fixed it temporarily but i will def be sticking my new rack in once it gets a bit warmer outside! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bcstudent 0 Posted March 6, 2006 Annoyingly my steering rack doesn't have any power assistance when it's cold, but the steering is (at least) clonk-free. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 6, 2006 My problem has now been diagnosed.....the knocking was being caused by the rack being loose. The holes on the rack that the bolts go through have enlarged and so the fit is not perfect hense the slipping. Tightening up the bolts has fixed it temporarily but i will def be sticking my new rack in once it gets a bit warmer outside! That's interesting. That did cross my mind but I outruled it as I put new bolts in mine, which are knurled on the shafts to bite into the subframe and take up any slack. I'll try tightening the nuts though, or maybe find some small stainless sleeves to poke into the rack holes..... good shout ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted March 6, 2006 That would definately make sense. I did the same as you Kev and tightened them, but it must have been loose for the holes to elongate? Still my brand new rack should have no problem :) It would also explain why rebuilt racks do the same thing as they would not redo the holes..... Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 6, 2006 Kev has a brand new rack already ... And didn't you fit new poly rack bushes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted March 6, 2006 mmmmm? I did fit new poly bush, but that is only one end of the rack, the other end is bolted solid, which I never really understood! jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 6, 2006 Yeah, it's weird. Bolt one end down and make the other end flexi bushed ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 6, 2006 Yeah only the MK1 had a bush at each end. MK2s on use one clamp, and yeah mine is a poly one, but with the bigger MK2 clamp and bush. The standard VR clamp is a spindley little thing. I think the idea behind a single clamp is to allow for subframe flex. If the rack was rigidly bolted at both ends, you'd probably get steering wheel snatching problems. On that score I might drop the rubber bush back in as it's only since using a poly bush on the new rack that I've noticed this clunking issue! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
A20 LEE 0 Posted March 6, 2006 Yeah only the MK1 had a bush at each end. MK2s on use one clamp, and yeah mine is a poly one, but with the bigger MK2 clamp and bush. The standard VR clamp is a spindley little thing. I think the idea behind a single clamp is to allow for subframe flex. If the rack was rigidly bolted at both ends, you'd probably get steering wheel snatching problems. On that score I might drop the rubber bush back in as it's only since using a poly bush on the new rack that I've noticed this clunking issue! No chance of my subframe flexing!! :lol: So the problem is will the four bolts which go through the subframe? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites