G60SC_Stoney 0 Posted October 5, 2006 ok the plan is as above, i plan to build (aka get someone else!) to build a 2.0 (or as close to) 16vG60, on a twin screw charger, now, ive already sourced a 16v inlet from a 'rocco, and a 16v P+P'd head from a MK2 16v, with kent cams etc, question is what else am i going to need?? i know i will need an integration kit to put it all together, but just looking to get all the main components together first so.... 1) what piston sizes do i need to bring it out to 2ltr ? 2) ive read that 16v rods are the better choice for a 1.9 conversion but what do i do for a 2.0 ?? 3) im going to need to upgrade the brakes...looking for some good porsche calipers, what can i fit that will go behind a 16" wheel?? i know this is going to cost some serious ££££ but ive got a bit stashed away and am going to get the conversion all up and running by my birthday. any advice would be more than welcome (i am not going to do this myself just thought id getas much info as possible before i ask the engineers to take over!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toad 0 Posted October 5, 2006 I assume your plan is to use a G60 (PG) bottom end? Why not use a 9A or other suitable 2l bottom end? Save on boring a block out. What sort of power are you looking for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted October 5, 2006 Yan or JMR are the experts on these.... Stealth alo build one a few years back - the Stealth Bomber I think it was... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 5, 2006 Another one for the forthcoming Forced Induction sub forum ;-) Yandards is the man for this I think (beaten by Supercharged!) IIRC, the 'Stealth Bomber' was a black MK2 VR6, Dave Barker's old car. Then it went to holland to get the Rallye floor welded in and then became the VR6x6x4 (6 cylinder, 6 speed, 4WD drive). Or am I thinking of the MK1 2.0 G60s (8v) that made 270 odd hp?..... which most G60 'experts' reckoned was impossible at the time....despite having the graphs to prove it waved in their face! AFAIK, they haven't done a 16V 60 yet..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted October 5, 2006 Ah, it was the mk1 I was thinkin of then I reckon... Incidently they are currently building a VR6 Turbo Corrado - It's purple in colour so they are calling it the Stealth Bummer... :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lippy 0 Posted October 5, 2006 Supercharged, pmsl! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted October 5, 2006 use the 9a or 6a 2l bottom end with audi s2 pistons Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted October 5, 2006 yup, with Flustered here... that's the easy way of getting 2 litre G60 16V which should get you good results... Just make sure you get someone GOOD to balance the bottom end and put in an uprated oil pump... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted October 5, 2006 I didn't think the s2 psitons would fit in 9a block? 9a's have a bore of 82.5mm and IIRC s2 pistons are 81mm bore. You can use s2 pistons in a KR block though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted October 5, 2006 id drop the charger and fit a turbo. better power and reliability. use 83mm pistons in a 9A for 2008cc i believe the oil squirters need mods the s2 route for a kr but im with beigey on the s2 pistons dropping straight through. 16v rods are a better choice anyway as the rod ratio improves over a G60 rod. 9a rods will do 300 wheel no worries. fit arp ford 289/302 bolts to the rods for safety costs are not bad. for 700 quid i got the 9a, bored and sleeved on 1 cylinder, cranik polished and balanced, scat rods and wiseco pistons plus shells etc. use the std cams or the exhaust cam mod or the boost may just blow by without proper cam phasing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted October 5, 2006 Yandards really is the man to talk to - you simply would not believe the amount of research he has done into 16VG60's... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted October 5, 2006 bugger, got mixed up with block numbers.... :oops: S2 pistons WON'T work in the 9A/6A block as mrbeige points out... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
veedub 0 Posted October 5, 2006 Have a word with JezzaG60 from RK Engineering, he is building one at the moment! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted October 5, 2006 It might also be worth considering an ABF block if you are going to use custom management as it will already have a crank wheel (36-1 toothed, I think) for the crank position. Otherwise you could just use a trigger wheel welded between the crack pulley and PAS pulley, and custom mount the hall sensor. Further to the use of the scirroco inlet manifold, if you are force inducing it isn't necessary to have such long runners and may even be detrimental, so it might be worth looking into a custom inlet manifold, or even a cut down s2 manifold. I know that is what JMR did with his. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60SC_Stoney 0 Posted October 5, 2006 ive looked into putting a chopped s2 manifold on there, and although it may be better for performance, id rather have a standard inlet, as it will look more Oem and better polished up too, and if there is a differnce in output, it wont really phase me due to the fact its going to be quick anyway!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60SC_Stoney 0 Posted October 5, 2006 so, what im going to need is a 9a block with some 83mm pistons, and retain the 16v rods ? should i not have any lairy cams in the head then ?? just put some std exhaust cams in instead ?? im going to lighten and balance the lot, the head should flow so well that it wont need to be heavily ported right ?? or is it worth getting a CNC 16v head from gwerks ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted October 5, 2006 use standard kr cams.The exhaust cam mod was designed for boosted motors but must be done properly with a modded chainwheel which no one makes anymore Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted October 5, 2006 The problem with the lhd one is that you still need extra parts to mount the throttle body @ 90* if you want it to look OEM as per the limited you saw in our workshop. We now supply a custom cast manifold for this application which echo's the style of the s2 manifold but with no cutting and allready cast with a g60 throttle body flange. There are many ways to build an engine of this style and things like rhd really need to be taken into consideration. Plan it well and you will have somthing that will make you smile for a long time to come. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60SC_Stoney 0 Posted October 5, 2006 Plan it well and you will have somthing that will make you smile for a long time to come. yeah thats EXACTLY what i need, you know how quickly i get bored!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2006 so, what im going to need is a 9a block with some 83mm pistons, and retain the 16v rods ? should i not have any lairy cams in the head then ?? just put some std exhaust cams in instead ?? im going to lighten and balance the lot, the head should flow so well that it wont need to be heavily ported right ?? or is it worth getting a CNC 16v head from gwerks ?? 9a block pistons - either wiseco or JE are good. get from US for cost reasons under 300 quid rods - your choice - us again 200 quid take pistons to good shop and bore will be done to match each piston as the sizes are slightly different and they will put in the right clearence for expansion for each bore. standard cams will produce over 400hp if needed. im gonna get my cnc head from cnc heads. no offence darren. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted October 6, 2006 Defo the States for parts..... just got a set of six 83.5mm JE forged pistons, with top shelf rings, clips and wrist pins for £491. STANDARD Mahles are £100 each from the dealer here..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60SC_Stoney 0 Posted October 6, 2006 this is al good info....will be phoning you sometime darren to discuss prices on BBM chargers etc.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 6, 2006 I'm building a 16v g60 at the moment for my mk1. Plan on using a kr engine a nd swapping the bits from the g60 onto that. Still looking for an s2 inlet as it can look OEM and pistons but might plump for bbm 83's. Just in the mock up stage atm and mounting the alternator under the charger and getting it all to fit before i strip it down and build it properly. Who is this JMR i keep hearing about? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GazzaG60 0 Posted October 6, 2006 83 give good wall thickness to give some protection for higher boost. in not sure if on a kr this removes the oil squirters though which i would not do for FI. on the head issues. im not sure if the cnc head would be good value on a G60 16v as the charger can only do so much anyway. standard 16v head will support 300wheel so.... why not save the block costs and run stacked gaskets. fine on G60 boost. keith mac runs like this im sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 6, 2006 always thought stacked gaskets was a bit of a bodge, but i think the standard pistons are forged anyway so might work? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites