Coolant problem, more help needed! (with photo's)

[Jim Bowen 1]

got rad off now, although pic doesn't show it, i thought the front rad might be leaking, does the aircon use a liquid?

 

 

also, how the hell do i get to the crack pipe and water pump, looks a bit of a mission :(

 

 

does that belt need to come off? and the alternator is that?

[Jim Bowen 1]

anyone help? or done this before, might get a mobile mechanic to do that bit

[CazzaVR 0]

Looks like you need to undo the alternator. Are you changing the water pump? If not, just drain the coolant from the bottom rad hose.

[Jim Bowen 1]

yeah, i plan to change water pump and fit and gruvenparts crack pipe.

 

is there anything i should know before taking that belt off and undoing alternator etc?

[coolrado 0]

got rad off now, although pic doesn't show it, i thought the front rad might be leaking, does the aircon use a liquid?

 

does that belt need to come off? and the alternator is that?

 

Air con uses gas but there is also a small amount of liquid in the system which keeps it lubricated, it might be worth getting it checked for leaks if it doesnt work,

 

I think you will need to remove the aircon pump and the alternator to get at the waterpump and the pipes that the crackpipe connects to, dont disconnect the aircon pipes though as all the gas will leak out, but the pipes should have enough flex in them to be able to get it out of the way.

[Jim Bowen 1]

is the gas dangerous?

 

or does it just need regassing if you disconnect it?

 

its really in the way

[coolrado 0]

not exactly dangerous as such unless in concentration, its not flammable but i would avoid breathing it in, it is a CFC ozone depleting greenhouse gas and your meant to have it recovered by a specialist company by law, they will connect their system to it and drain it off and have it recycled or disposed of safely.

 

although if the system is leaking and your aircon doesnt work chances are there is no gas left in the system

 

I think the original stuff is freon (dichlorodifluoromethane same stuff they used to use for fridges) and they now use something called R134 or something like that which is meant to be safer.

[Foxster 0]

My radiator is here so i will be cracking on this job tomorrow. Any tips before i start? It would maybe be a good idea for the forum that when someone is doing a job like this (if they have time to) maybe to make a step by step guide with some photo's etc? :shock:

[Jim Bowen 1]

i was going to take pics, but once hands are dirty i don't like touching camera etc, and takes ages if you always wiping hands.

 

may get some as it goes back together

[Jon_vr6 1]

Take care when you are undoing the tiny screws that hold things on some of mine rounded off and they were an arse to get off!! And if your fitting a new crack pipe be prepared for a fight mine had corroded on and took a good hour to get off, had to dremmel the edge so the new one could fit in!!

[Jim Bowen 1]

i already had the fun with the little screws holding air con rad to the other rad :mad2:

 

managed not to round or break anything so far

[Foxster 0]

Ha i'm glad others have had that problem too! Replaced a load of screws etc. Been a nightmare, still got a few more to do, had the saw on a couple on the arch liners, any i came across that were slightly corroded i have tried to replace. Thats why i have done a few on the arch liners, it was just annoying me knowing the hassle it would be if (or when) i need the liners out. So i thought why it was all in bits and i had the energy to do the ones that i could!

[k551 0]

Hi 3corsameal,

 

How did youu get on with changing the water pump? I have to change the radiator, which is fine, and also the water pump as it's started to rattle. I was going to get a garage to do the pump but from your photos I see that once you have the front of the car off, it is accessible.

 

Any tip's would be greatful!!

 

Thanks

[Jim Bowen 1]

i didn't in the end, i left it for someone else to do :(

 

from what i could see the engine has to move to get access to the bolts on the pulley

 

and i don't have the equipment to do that

[k551 0]

Ok thanks. Your posts and photos so far will be a real help to get the radiator off. I have found a step by step guide on the internet that goes through the steps of jacking the engine up slightly and replacing the pump.

 

I think I will have a crack at the weekend. I have removed an engine from a MR2 before so I kinda know how to go about it.

 

And of course I will take photos and makes notes on how to do it and post them here.

[craigowl 0]

I changed the pump last year and I am old and decrepit (62). :confused4:

You have to involve the engine mounts when raising engine. Easy to do, though, but you may hit a snag if unlucky.

 

Cautionary note: On retightening rear off side bolt for engine mount, it sheared. Had to get garage to change mount/bolt.

Cost about £150 including new mount and bolt.

 

I suggest that you have replacement bolt(s) to hand. They are cheap (about £1.50?) and VAG do say somewhere that they are ONE USE ONLY, so I reckon you might as well renew it/them. You will never know if the bolt you have tightened up to torque is on the point of failing if you reuse an old one.

[k551 0]

Thanks for the advice. If they have the bolts in stock when I collect the pump tomorrow I will buy them.

 

Fingers crossed, all will go well!

[craigowl 0]

Water pumps are usually cemented in with gunge that has been trying to weep out. You may have to tap firmly around where it fits engine block. Don't overdue it such that you may crack thick metal, though!

You can use softer items than say a steel hammer.

[k551 0]

Success! Rad and Water Pump replaced. Once I had the bumber and rad off the water pump was fairly straight forward.

 

All done without any bolts rounding and snapping off!

 

Pics to follow.

[mattkh 0]

hi

Well done. Look forward to the pictures.

[Jim Bowen 1]

how did you get to the water pump? was it a VR?

 

i can't see a way of getting to mine without moving engine up

[k551 0]

It was a jack the engine up job. It made it a lot easier with the rad out. I just had to disconnect the downpipe with the cat, support the engine and tranny with jacks, disconnect the engine from the mounts and slowly jack it up about 3"'s. There is enough play in all the other pipes and wires to allow this. You just need to keep an eye on the downpipe when jacking the engine up to make sure it doesn't catch.

 

And yes it was on a VR.