mr_trumpy 0 Posted December 21, 2008 Hi I have a G60 which is currently fitted with air intake system as shown below:- I wish to return to the standard airbox (which I have) but I do not have the snorkel. What is the best way of feeding air to this box? I had considered cutting a large hole in the bottom and ducting the air from a scoop at the front of the car through the old carbon cannister hole and into the airbox. I was hoping for some help and maybe some pics of the best solution. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ninoG60 0 Posted December 21, 2008 first off, well done for ditching the induction kit. and your solution is a good one. i would run a paper filter too on my mk2 i drilled the bottom half of the airbox liberally too am sure there are some ics on here of one thats had this done Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted December 21, 2008 http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... AI#p833687 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr_trumpy 0 Posted December 22, 2008 http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71773&p=833687&hilit=g60+CAI#p833687 Excellent, just the job :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted December 22, 2008 As above I think you've got the right idea already... Stock airbox to prevent heatsoak, especially if tuned - the Jabba kit is rubbish! Genuine VW air filter - more fins that cheap pattern ones. The only mod thats worthwhile is binning the carbon canister and running some sort of cold air feed up to the bottom of the airbox - you could also re-locate the outside air temp into this to monitor... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The_Dude 0 Posted December 22, 2008 the Jabba kit is rubbish! I have noticed those words appearing together quite a lot. Are they a bunch of cowboys then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60karmann 0 Posted December 22, 2008 I can't speak about Jabba Sport services, but the intake heat shield doesn't do anywhere near a decent enough job to warrant replacing the original filter box. I think they use a Jetex cone filter though and they are one of the better ones. As for supercharger rebuilds I have heard of some horror stories from the work Jabba has done, I can speak from experience of seeing Darren and Rob at work down at G-Werks and they do a great job on the re-builds. My standard re-built charger is still producing on average 14psi after 12k miles since last G-Werks re-build :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The_Dude 0 Posted December 22, 2008 I'll take that as a "Yes" then :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KipVR 1 Posted December 22, 2008 http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71773&p=833687&hilit=g60+CAI#p833687 Excellent, just the job :D Until he goes through a big puddle! :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vwdeviant 0 Posted December 22, 2008 the Jabba kit is rubbish! I have noticed those words appearing together quite a lot. Are they a bunch of cowboys then? Lets just say they commute by Horse... :norty: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted December 23, 2008 thw water would never make it up there as the snorkel is also removed from the box so doesnt suck up that tube Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted December 23, 2008 the Jabba kit is rubbish! I have noticed those words appearing together quite a lot. Are they a bunch of cowboys then? where g laders are concerened they give cowboys a bad name :nuts: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riley 0 Posted December 24, 2008 Tbh the jabba stuff above is a nice bit of kit...The real problem is that open air filters aren't the best idea as far as protecting the g-lader from small particles of crap. If you end up with a grey paste type crap in your charger/outlet its because dirt has tuned into a fine gritty paste. :gag: Id also say that the standard air box with the snorkel removed will flow just as well as an open air filter. Neil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted December 25, 2008 surely panel filters are made of exactly the same stuff as cones though? prob even same surface area? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted December 30, 2008 Well..... as i had an empty workshop and some time to play with my corrado and the dyno i thought i'd see if i could do some testing to put the old which induction kit debate to be. If i'm honest and you were using your car as a daily driver i would go for a paper element filter every time..... that said, if your fastidious about your maintainence and you want maximum performance..... well i'll let the figures do the talking. All tests were performed in sucession, i did 2 or 3 runs per filter set up and the numbers posted are the best result for each filter. That said my car on our dyno is always super consistent and is usually within 1-2bhp on each setup. (Less than 1% variation which aint bad really!!!) Standard Airbox, still with snorkle inlet and a new paper filter: 277.1bhp/7026rpm 244.0lbft/4502rpm Standard airbox, snorkle removed and box cut away above cc: 287.4bhp/6954rpm 249.7lbft/4496rpm SWG Twin inlet lid, cut away box bottom: 293.0bhp/7015rpm 251.1lbft/4477rpm Jabbasport Single large cone filter and heat shield: 297.4bhp/7211rpm 250.0lbft/4704rpm SWG Twin cone kit with heat shild: 303.2bhp/7153rpm 255.5lbft/4957rpm I did actually log the boost level during the run and there is a 1.5psi differece between first and last kit, just goes to show the charger like to have a good supply of air to draw from. So, there you have it. No doubting cone filters can provide the performance edge but you would really need to keep on top of things keeping it really clean and well oiled. I have never liked the fact they seem to let a bit more crap through into the charger, but like i said, if well maintained you should be ok! Another thing to bear in mind it that this is tested on a pretty extreme case. I'm running a 65mm toothed belt on the charger so the demand for air will be that much higher than on a smaller pulley. That said, a 10% gain is a 10% gain! On a side note, ive cracked 300bhp!!!! :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMC 0 Posted December 30, 2008 That is a huge increase Jezza, and some pretty impressive numbers :D Have you got any got the printouts from the runs? And I presume the rund with the normal and SWG airboxes were with standard paper filters in them?? Oh, and the final thought - were these bonnet up or bonnet down runs? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jezzaG60 0 Posted December 30, 2008 I have got all the runs on one print i think, but its a bit of a jumbled mess so they don't really tell the story as well as the numbers. The only thing they do show which, although obvious from the different power figures if you think about it is that the differences in torque at the top end become much greater than at the peak torque numbers. At 7k there is almost 20 lbsft seperating the lowest from the highest power plot. All the runs carried out with a box just had a standard paper filter in. All runs were with the bonnet up. We never tend to run cars with the bonnet down on the rollers. Even though we have 2 powerful fans (better than a lot of rolling roads seem to use) you can never simulate the ammount of airflow you would see through the engine bay on a 4th gear pull on the open road. I do have a 4" cold air feed running from a scoop in my spoiler up to the cc hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flusted 0 Posted December 31, 2008 finally hard eveidence good work Jezza, maybe that should be wiki'd? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites