Any of you guys used the underseal stuff from VW?

[Mawrick 0]

I'v found something with part number: "D 003 500" body protection stuff (for the underside of the car) from VW, and was wondering if this is the "normal" stuff that is on the car when it's new?..

 

 

If so, how is it to apply, and is it also applicable to the innder wheel bays?.

 

And how well does it work.....f,ex on parts that have lost the original protection, is it just to put on, or do you have to clean a whole area first?

[boost monkey 0]

I think Supercharged may have done, he has deffo undersealed one of his Cs with all the schulz goodness.

[dirtytorque 0]

i'd be interested to know how people have gone about this too..

[Supercharged 2]

Yeah if it's the same as I've used it comes in a 1Ltr tin for a Shultz gun and is about £8 a can.

 

It's so much better that anything else I've tried, dries to a solid grey primer and is thick but doesn't clog either...

 

Looks like it can be painted over too like the original

[Mawrick 0]

Ok, but did you remove all the old stuff first, or can you just put it over the old?

 

My original underseal seem to be in quite a good state, but have a few places that it have "slipped", and was thinking of maybe lightly paint over it with this stuff? (or most of the underside)?

[mort1414 0]

do you need a gun or can this stuff be brushed on?

cheers morten

[KIPVW 0]

Hi Mate, as Supercharged says its great stuff and use it ourselves, you can use a paint brush to apply it and then you can get the rippled effect with a little practice too.

 

Pour a small amount into a jar though rather than out of the tube.

 

I'd cut away any old damage with a stanly knife first and then maybe some rust treatment to stop and rust forming underneath it.

 

It goes off in a few hours but i leave it overnight before painting. :wink:

[mort1414 0]

ahh cheers for that will definatly been on my nxt shopping list for vw

 

morten :grin:

[dirtytorque 0]

Hi Mate, as Supercharged says its great stuff and use it ourselves, you can use a paint brush to apply it and then you can get the rippled effect with a little practice too.

 

Pour a small amount into a jar though rather than out of the tube.

 

I'd cut away any old damage with a stanly knife first and then maybe some rust treatment to stop and rust forming underneath it.

 

It goes off in a few hours but i leave it overnight before painting. :wink:

 

 

So just clear away an area around any damaged stuff and then re-apply?

I don't have to clear the whole underside of the car?

Sorry if question seems dumb.

[Guest]

I don't have to clear the whole underside of the car?

 

Where ever the underseal is in good condition you will have a hell of a struggle getting it off and for what benefit?

If you have sound, well stuck, rubbery underseal leave it be.

 

Anywhere that is damaged will no doubt peel back all too easily unearthing a much larger patch of rusty bottom! Small cuts and nicks in the rubbery stuff can be hidden by road grim until such time as rust gets a hold and then you'll see the problem.

I think you will find the front of the car will be the worst area so it might be worth giving it a good clean to see if there is any small areas of damage that can be seen to before they become large areas.

Clean heavy road grim off with white spirit. Brush it on, leave it to soak for a good 10 mins, scrub with a stiff brush (washing up variety works well), wipe off with papertowels/old rags. Brush again with more white spirit or gunk, leave to soak etc etc until you can properly see the condition of the underseal. Easy, if a little messy!!

[dirtytorque 0]

sounds like fun..

 

 

cheers.

[Mawrick 0]

Just recently started to clean up the wheel bays for dirt and loose underseal, most of it seem to be in good nick though, and if I have understood you guys correct I could leave the old underseal that's ok, and just paint on the VW underseal thingy?..

 

Does it matter if some of it comes on top of the old one?, ie does it have to be masked of?.

 

Also any tips on what one could ude to paint it afterwards?

 

 

Also could I clean it with a power-washer and water?, or should I keep water away?....

 

 

cheers!

[KipVR 1]

I'm also doing this at the moment, I think it's fine to go over the old stuff, but feather the edge of the old first so it's not a sharp line and clean it up with a bit of thinners. Also make sure you use an etch primer onto any bare metal - that's very important. I found that where all the studs holding the brake line clips join the chassis a fair few of them had rust creeping under them, and a little bit on the fuel tank strap anchor points. By far the most was the front jacking points though, luckily still not bad though :)

[KipVR 1]

Also could I clean it with a power-washer and water?, or should I keep water away?....

I wouldn't but others may have a different opinion, you may well force water into small cracks that you can't necessarily see. Then it stays there and rots the metal under the coating.

[Mawrick 0]

Was what I was thinking also, about the power wash........:)

 

atleast the wheel bay I cleaned seem to be in good nick, seem like I only come down to the original paint, and not bare metal...:)

[mort1414 0]

Looks like d 003 500 is obsolete does anyone have any experience using another brand?

 

 

[Cressa 44]

6 hours ago, mort1414 said:

Looks like d 003 500 is obsolete does anyone have any experience using another brand?

 

 

Sorry no, but hopefully someone will post up soon 👍

[seanl82 23]

Trouble is that both the texture and colours are different. I've seen people use it but you'd have to do the whole floor and there are much cheaper alternatives. The original stuff was silicon based (hence the reason it's obsolete), the new stuff is much thinner and water based.

[ger040 2]

i used the replacement vw stuff (d314 dd38 m2) on sections of my corrado several years back - it was expensive but it has a very short shelf life from what i remember

coverage was good as i actually ordered far to much at the time

it is much tougher than the original stuff and by that i mean more solid stone like in fact and is paintable.

[vw rule 19]

Admittedly I've had area's on mine underneath that are cracked or pealing off, once the salt and water gets in behind those damaged areas, it doesn't take long for it to start showing signs of surface rust, as it's only a very thin layer of primer used to cover the bar metal, then over that VW just used their rubberised/silicone underseal stuff, which if unchecked can hide a load of rusty gremlins.

With rust there's only one solution and that is to cut it out completely, or if it is only very slight rust, you can treat it but it's not a 5 minute job, you'll have to remove all the surface rust, including a good centimetre around & away from the affected area, make sure the surface rust area is 100% cleaned away down to bar metal, then treat it with a good acid rust converter, as a first coat, then apply a good zink or galvanized paint on top of at least two coats, then you've got the choice to put on another coat like a thick coat of red oxide, or use a proper stone chip paint that is heat/salt/stone resistant that'll set rock hard. Then the final coat over the top is underseal or use a good thick seam sealer if you're repairing damaged areas, then as extra protection spray black wax oil, or use a semi flexible stone chip over the top.

Then every year you'll need to check the underside for any damage, especially when your car comes back from it's MOT or service, or if you've been to a tyre fitting place and they've used a trolley jack, this can crack/split the underseal.

Alternatively you could simply just spray the underside with old engine oil, this will keep the current underseal hydrated and won't dry out. Most older cars from the 1960s 70s and very early 80s use the old oil trick, hence why they're still on the road.

My point is the underside of your car needs to be multi layered up otherwise it won't last 4 years,

Si

Edited October 20, 2020 by vw rule

[vw rule 19]

17 hours ago, seanl82 said:

Trouble is that both the texture and colours are different. I've seen people use it but you'd have to do the whole floor and there are much cheaper alternatives. The original stuff was silicon based (hence the reason it's obsolete), the new stuff is much thinner and water based.

Is this the new version of VW underseal you're talking about ?  To be honest I've never used the stuff from VW.

Ebay item number 174280500815      Link below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174280500815

 

Si 

[seanl82 23]

1 hour ago, vw rule said:

Is this the new version of VW underseal you're talking about ?  To be honest I've never used the stuff from VW.

Ebay item number 174280500815      Link below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174280500815

 

Si 

I didn't use it Si, I'm just going by previous reviews of it. It's available in Black, Grey & white. My underseal is either a very aged white or more like a beige/very light grey colour, so I ended up just using Upol Gravitex as it had been mooted as more like the factory texture - which I managed to get with it using a brush and dabbing. It's much more rubberised as well like the original stuff. Unfortunately due to the colour differences though, I couldn't feather the top coat in like the factory overspray as it just looked like what it was, a cover up of repaired bits. I ended up just painting the whole of the underside classic green in the end. Note; I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning all the oil and grime off first using thinners. I wouldn't recommend just dabbing a load of underseal over the too! I also wire wheeled/ground back any rust (luckily mine was only surface around a few of the mounting studs and lip), used bilt hamber deox gel, and layed on a fair few coats of etch primer and top coat before re-undersealing and more of the top coat.

[vw rule 19]

6 hours ago, seanl82 said:

I didn't use it Si, I'm just going by previous reviews of it. It's available in Black, Grey & white. My underseal is either a very aged white or more like a beige/very light grey colour, so I ended up just using Upol Gravitex as it had been mooted as more like the factory texture - which I managed to get with it using a brush and dabbing. It's much more rubberised as well like the original stuff. Unfortunately due to the colour differences though, I couldn't feather the top coat in like the factory overspray as it just looked like what it was, a cover up of repaired bits. I ended up just painting the whole of the underside classic green in the end. Note; I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning all the oil and grime off first using thinners. I wouldn't recommend just dabbing a load of underseal over the too! I also wire wheeled/ground back any rust (luckily mine was only surface around a few of the mounting studs and lip), used bilt hamber deox gel, and layed on a fair few coats of etch primer and top coat before re-undersealing and more of the top coat.

That's basically what I've done just repaired the areas that are cracking/pealing, but I did find some gremlins when removing the old VW underseal ☹️

So I had to cut it out and weld in a new piece, and wax oil the inner chassis box section on the drivers side. The passenger side chassis looks ok but will still treat it with wax oil to be sure.

I used thick sticky seam sealer instead of underseal, then will spray over with semi flex stone chip might even use black wax oil too.

Si

 

[vw rule 19]

Also I found and treated this just in time on the passenger side outer sill, before the rust really got in. This area the VW stone chip covering was lifting off.

Si 

 

[seanl82 23]

1 hour ago, vw rule said:

Also I found and treated this just in time on the passenger side outer sill, before the rust really got in. This area the VW stone chip covering was lifting off.

Si 

 

I was lucky by the look of it then! No pin holes anywhere and only one mounting stud that was starting the crumble/separation at the welds which I managed to grind back. I think the fact that the sump and lower chain cover had been leaking so long it  saved my bacon and gave the underside a misting of oil actually paid dividends! The only bit that needed welding was a couple of blobs to a 5p sized hole at one of the filler mounts. A mate with a mig sorted that for me, and a 2.5mm drill bit and tap sorted it perfectly. 👍