Yandards' Blackberry VR6 - Making my garden shed look good

[Yandards 0]

Cracked on well during the last two days, got the drivers door handle lock re-tumbled so I am back down to a single key, rear boot repair filler has been flattened back to look a little better and re-coated with another layer on Zinga.

 

Got the drivers seat out and had a good hoover of the footwell area, started cleaning the drivers side carpet and the headlining - both of which are coming up ok. So all in all some good overall progress but not a lot to show for it right now.

 

I also re-electroplated some of bolts that hold the door gubbins in place, both the large screws that hold the inner handle on and the ones that hold the outer handle in place. Door handles have not been refitted to the car and the addition of some lubrication on the striker mechanism now means they both operate nicely -the drivers one was terrible beforehand.

 

The plan next week as I was on late shift was to crack into the various mechanical jobs I needed to do, both solid front to rear lines need replacing as does the one that goes accross the rear beam. I also wanted to swap all the suspension bits over for the new parts, refit a factory airbox, drop the oil and coolant, replace all the brake line flexis, replace the brake fluid, tidy up the wiring on the MAF and fit the replacement radiator.

 

However, thanks a unnamed North African dictator I now have to go into work tonight and am on 12 hour shifts for a while - not bothered about the extra work it's just the timing is lousy :)

 

Anyway here are some pictures of what I have managed to get done:

 

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[coullstar 0]

Doesnt seem to bad. Tell the pilots to give Mr G my regards when they are dropping thier stuff.

[Wild-Animal 0]

liking the work!

Zinga works a treat, it works best on blasted surfaces cold galvanising! looking forward to more photos !

[Laughingboy 0]

Good to see my old Corrado getting the love it deserves. Just to clear a few things up, no I'm not the guy from Ebay, I sold it to the guy on Ebay... last novemeber.

Good luck with it Yan, she couldn't be in better hands!

I'll get you all the history paperwork up to you as soon as possible.

 

---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:51 PM ----------

 

I nearly went up to Scotland to buy this one a few months back. But the bloke selling it was an absolute nightmare! Spent about two weeks asking him to send more photos, always danced around questions you asked and kept trying to sell me Ford Explorers and Renault Scenics!! Obviously a trader!

 

Not me I hope! ;)

[Yandards 0]

Back onto usual work pattern so I carried on with the strip out today.

 

Decided I needed to get the carpet out, rear quarter door cards etc as it would be easier to clean up like that, the car also needs an alarm installing so it's easier with no trim in and I can do a decent job of routing all the cables.

 

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All went according to plan until I got to the underfelt, the passenger side was pretty moist, I figured as the door plastic membrane was a bit of a mess it was probably just leaking when it rains. Closer inspection of the heater control box area showed some dreaded pink goo on the bottom clips - coolant leak :(

 

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So I am now getting a heater matrix as well as changing the radiator - at least it will have been done and I am going to go for the genuine VW item as I don't want to be doing it again any time soon.

 

Rest of the car looks ok with the trim off, started removing all the extra wiring people fit for ICE and old alarm fitments just to clean it all up and put it back to factory.

 

On removing the passenger side boot carpet the rear suspension turret is starting to look a little funky, so it will be out with the wire brush to get it all back down to solid metal and then treated with Jenolite and painted with Zinga. The rest of the panels all ok for now but they will get a heavy attack of waxoil prior to the door card etc going back in.

 

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New/old airbox arrived today so the old K&N cone filter is off the car and a factory airbox now sits in its place. Also had the new Sachs gas dampers for the front and rear arrive, just waiting on the original used springs to be delivered. Ordered 100ml of blackberry paint to see how that works out, the rear tailgate will need it as will the inner rear arch when I have attacked that.

 

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Finally I had a good chat with the former owner who shed some light on a few things, it would seem that the car managed to bake the engine and had a 6 thou skim on the head to sort it out, he still has all the old history so will bring it over next time he is up my way - really chuffed about that as it's good to know what has been done.

 

Pictures of work in progress and one of the central locking pump and central locking/electric window ECU for those folks who have never seen one.

 

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[CazzaVR 0]

Brilliant work, Yan. Enjoying the read- good inspiration! Wanna do something similar with mine over the Easter/Summer hols :) Bit of a relief the paint has come up so well!

[Yandards 0]

New battery pitched up and I jacked the car up this morning to have a look at the underside with the view to replacing the 2 front to rear solid brake lines that are currently an MOT failure.

 

Underneath looks ok, few bits that need attention where the underseal has split but otherwise ok. The car has a set of braided lines fitted which is a bonus - full set of all 6 flexis have been done.

 

Suspension is nearly new Weitec stuff, shame to take it off but I want the ride comfort more than anything and I already have the 16vG60 for more sporty fun (when that's back on the road :)).

 

No other horrors lurking underneath with a quick survey, the CAT heat shield bracket is cracked on one side, but they usually are, I think I have found the source of the PAS fluid leak and the N/S/R hole where the ABS sensor passes through is a bit grotty but again will clean up ok.

 

So 1st job was to get the brake lines off, all came undone ok without messing up the pipework or rounding any nipples - there is a copper pipe that runs to the drivers side front caliper so that solid line has been replaced in the past.

 

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Next up was to bend the new pipe to match the old, first shot at this so it's not as good as I would like but it's not too bad and frankly is better than using copper pipe. Then it was onto the flaring process, I recently boughy myself a Flaremaster 2 kit which is designed to be used on the car and is rated to be able to flare OE VW pipe - steel flares. It uses a hydraulic piston instead of just tightening up a nut and after having a play with it when I got it it is very easy to use and gives good flares. Pics are of the assembly ready to flare, flare done but still in the tool and a comparison of the original pipe flare vs the new one.

 

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Trial fitted the one pipe I managed to make up just to see if it all lines ok, pretty pleased with it and I tried making up the other solid line after, unfortunately I have run out of pipe to make anymore but had some more practice on the bits I had left.

 

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Finally for today a quick check inside the car revealed this:

 

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It was all coming from the underfelt I removed yesterday that was wet and had left in the car overnight, as it's nice and sunny I thought I would leave it somewhere to drip dry and get the heat from the sun.

 

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More brakeline is now on order from VW, along with a heater matrix, drivers side bolster and a selection of new trim screws. Plan tomorrow is get the heater controls, dash surround and centre console out so I can prep as far as possible for replacing the heater matrix when it arrives.

[emu 0]

Good work withe the brake pipes. Did you manage to do this only on the car stands ?? Is there enough place ?? Was doing some work like that and wasn't much comfortable.

[Yandards 0]

Good work withe the brake pipes. Did you manage to do this only on the car stands ?? Is there enough place ?? Was doing some work like that and wasn't much comfortable.

 

Yep, it's not too bad for access as the lines run on the passenger side of the car ok, you have to remove both solid lines as they cross over each other at the bulkhead end making it a right pain to get them out.

 

Worst thing to fit on axle stands is an exhaust, I hate doing those and when you add in a drive that is on an incline it get really fun; best thing I bought was a highlift jack means I can get my axle stands to full height which really helps when trying to work under the car.

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Nice work Yan, you really are cracking on with this one.... the weather is helping mind.

 

Supprised you don't like the copper replacement pipes? They are more than strong enough for the brake lines (lbs/sq inch) and they don't rust? I just make sure they get a good squirt of waxol or something to protect from stone chips. I need to replace the ones on mine shortly and i'm gunna opt for copper I think (those Americans can't stop me!)... However, I leant my flaring kit to someone and I they lost it... grrrr

 

What kind of internal screws are you getting? I'm gunna have to order some soon for myself and with ETKA online playing up I'm unsure what i need! :bonk:

 

BTW... I hope the work on this one isn't distracting you from the 16v? :D

[Yandards 0]

Nice work Yan, you really are cracking on with this one.... the weather is helping mind.

 

Supprised you don't like the copper replacement pipes? They are more than strong enough for the brake lines (lbs/sq inch) and they don't rust? I just make sure they get a good squirt of waxol or something to protect from stone chips. I need to replace the ones on mine shortly and i'm gunna opt for copper I think (those Americans can't stop me!)... However, I leant my flaring kit to someone and I they lost it... grrrr

 

What kind of internal screws are you getting? I'm gunna have to order some soon for myself and with ETKA online playing up I'm unsure what i need! :bonk:

 

BTW... I hope the work on this one isn't distracting you from the 16v? :D

 

It's just not a durable as the Nickel steel pipe and I prefer the steel line, it's not like the copper won't take the pressure it just always seems a bit rubbish to me, personal preference only I guess :)

 

Internal screw wise the main ones that are used to hold all the dash shelves etc in place are N 902 412 03.

 

As for the 16v, yes it is but I am also waiting on a tensioning kit from RPM prior to ripping the engine out.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Good work Yan 8)

 

It's just a preference thing really. Technically both copper and steel do the same job but I prefer working with VAG lines and fittings. VW chose steel over copper for a reason and I tend to go with what they recommend :D

 

EDIT: Beaten to it by the man himself :D

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

LOl

Fair enough, so long as I'm not wrong in wonting to use Copper! Keep the pictures coming! :thumbleft:

 

VW chose steel over copper for a reason and I tend to go with what they recommend :D

I think because steel is cheaper than copper... and when your mass producing lines the price it on linear meters of pipe.

Edited March 23, 2011 by Alex_G60_Fanatic

[Supercharged 2]

Yeah that pipe is pretty bad - mum's Golf just sailed through another MOT but 2 of the rear pipes were advisories, no where near that bad though but not suprising as it's now 15 years old.

 

As above I'd rather use steel as it's good for another 15 years although copper is a lot easier to work with...

 

Yan - I have a load of standard lengths of pipe already flared with ends - give me a shout if you need any as the VW flares are perfect, Kev's used a couple too!

[Laughingboy 0]

...Worst thing to fit on axle stands is an exhaust, I hate doing those and when you add in a drive that is on an incline it get really fun; best thing I bought was a highlift jack means I can get my axle stands to full height which really helps when trying to work under the car.

 

Know that pain, I use to use two trolley jacks and blocks of wood to get the car as high as possible on axle stands but its still tight. Best thing I ever got was a wheeled trolley for working underneth, makes it so much nicer then crawling around in the muck!

 

As for the brake pipes, I was alway told Kunifer was the stuff to have. A lot stronger then the steel and more resistant to corrosion. Does anyone actually know the pros and cons of the various different types on the market?

 

whats your plans with the weitec stuff Yan? I still have the 16v weitec springs stored away if you have a use for them on any of your other projects.

[Yandards 0]

Spent yesterday making up and fitting the other brake line that needed replacing - it's in kunifer this time as VW couldn't get me the OE pipe quick enough. Not a bad compromise, 90% Nickel and 10% copper - I still think it's too soft and I found a patent for the original stuff when looking for a supplier on the web, it's a very interesting design with all sorts of different metals in it and with a selection of layers to ensure durability and corrsion resistance.

 

Anyway moving on, bumped into the VW parts bloke while picking up the brake line in Partco, he confirmed that the seat bolster I had ordered was no longer available. After getting annoyed with myself for not ordering any beforehand I set about ripping the Mk 2 Golf seat I had in the roof apart.

 

A comparison of the seat cusion confirms that there is no way it is ever going to fit a Corrado seat even if you trim various bits. Next plan was to try one of the Recaro seat bolster covers I have spare onto a standard 'rado bolster - again the results were not promising (You can get new Recaro Mk 2 bolsters off ebay for £35). Finally I looked into what other items in the VW range might work, no luck. So it's going to be either canabilise a good passenger seat or buy a block of foam and cut it to shape - going to try the block of foam first. I was going to ring Newton Commercial today but failed miserably, they may well be able to produce some as they are making Mk 1 items.

 

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This morning the priority job was to get the front wishbones off so I could get the bushes replaced, cue various amounts of swearing at the stupid plus suspension and 'what idiot put that sump there' issues that are only associated with VR6 ownership. The use of a 22mm spanner as a lever locked onto the 18mm spanner gave me enough room to get the damn bolt undone; when the car is built the engine is bolted directly onto the subframe assembly which already has wishbones etc on it.

 

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It was then into unbolting the front and rear engine mount so I could jack the engine to get the bolt out, front one is easiest and I can recommend the use of a very very long extension bar! For the rear one you need to remove the nut that retains the lambda and rear knock sensor connections prior to getting at the mounting stud underneath - again the long bar is handy. You can see just how much you need to jack the engine to get at the bolt, beware that the gearbox mounting bolt will restrict your movement so it is also worth backing that off a few turns.

 

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I then had a go at splitting the lower ball joints and track rod ends, my balljoint splitter won't fit on the bottom ball joint and is slightly bent so keeps falling off the track rod end one. So that was one item on the shopping list when I dropped the wishbones in. Finally I bagged it all up around lunchtime to give me enough time to get the wishbones into town and back today.

 

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Dropped the wishbones off complete with new bushes, rear ones are the R32 items obviously, went to Halfords and bought myself a new ball joint splitter and a new airbrush as my old one broke. Got back and started preping the old coil springs that I got (thanks Mark!) for a couple of coats of Hammerite. That soon went wrong as the new airbrush uses a can of propellant, I didn't have an adaptor so I could use my compressor. This problem was swiftly followed by finding my tin of black Hammerite had gone rock hard :(.

 

Went back into town to collect my wishbones and pick up a new tin of Hammerite, got some smooth stuff in Satin black so it should be the same finish as the Sachs dampers I have. Wishbones were collected but they had not done the front bushes as they were not sure if they were the right ones, normally most garages have the complete car to check :)

 

Prepped the coil springs and the first coat is on one of them however, the tin of propellant is icing up causing the airbrush to have reduced airflow :(. Not too bad overall and I have an airline adaptor on order so I can use my compressor. For a set of well used springs they are coming up quite nicely, no idea on the durability of the finish but it is being applied very thinly so should be ok.

 

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I then checked to confirm that my new wishbone bushes were the correct item, they were so it was into the garage to improvise a bush fitting tool. A long bolt, a load of washers, a 36mm socket and some Fairy liquid soon saw me armed with all the bits I needed to push in the front bushes. Quite pleased with the result and very easy to do, shame I would need a huge socket for the rear bush to do the same.

 

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Collected more shinny new bits from VW today and 100ml of blackberry paint arrived in the post, so the plan tomorrow is to rip out the heater matrix, refurbish the heater box and rebuild that. Then move onto tackling the rear inner arch corrosion and prep that and the number plate panel for painting.

Edited March 25, 2011 by Yandards

[Alex_G60_Fanatic 0]

Wow, moving on nice yan, Will be interested to know how you get on with the seat bolsters! What kind of foam you going for?

[Yandards 0]

Got up this morning to find it wet outside :(

 

Not chucking it down but enough it make it a bit of a plop day car work wise. Decided to crack on anyway so after a brief trip to Halfrauds to pick up some bits I started modding the numberplate. Picked these up in Halfords with the aim of doing something like this:

 

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Measured the new plastic screws, 4mm so out came the drill and a pair of 4mm holes were put in the panel using the remains of the old plastic lugs. Slight issue with the back of the plastic screw as it has a chamfer so I needed to countersink the number plate panel slightly.

 

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Used the wheel arch liner captive nuts to give the plastic screws something to screw into. Trial fitted it and whilst it looked ok it also just look a bit too much like it wasn't supposed to be like that to me.

 

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Some head scratching ensued as the guide sleeves in the Halfords kit were too small to just put in the holes in the boot; digging through my spares I found some grommits that are used with the door sill retaining clips - they fitted a treat and are also a nice tight fit on the Halfords guide sleeves. I also wanted to use a pair of screws to retain the numberplate panel in the middle area using the same technique as my first test - these will sit behind the numberplate when fitted so needed to be pretty close to a flush fit.

 

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Quite pleased with the overall look, panel is nicely attached, shouldn't get water coming through into the boot and it looks like is supposed to be like that (in my eyes anyway). I also have the added bonus that I can remove the panel at will without needing a new one (which are only available via Classic Parts now :().

 

Rain was easing off so I wanted to get on with changing the heater matrix whilst the weather was ok, opended the passenger door to see a now familiar sight.

 

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Some tell tale drips and a wet ABS ECU told me all I needed to know, the heater scuttle foliage cover seal was shot. Luckily I had already picked one up from VW as I was going to replace it as part of the heater matrix work.

 

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During this the postman arrived with this:

 

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Yay foam! So in an effort to stop having to keep mopping puddles out of the car I started replacing the passenger door membrane which was in a bit of a state. Cleaned up any signs of rust with the usual treatment of some Jenolite jelly and then painted with Zinga; bottom 1/3rd of the door had a good attack with some waxoil too.

 

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First shot with the self adhesive foam saw it end up in a crumpled mess, used the old membrane as a template only to find it was too short. Finally ended up with a slightly ghetto looking door membrane but I have finally got the hang of working with a large sheet of self adhesive foam that has a tendancy to stick to itself!!

 

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Final job for today was to remove the centre console and heater controls, got loads of pictures of what goes where but will update that little lot tomorrow. Going to be getting some practice in with the plastic welding kit that arrived on Friday, centre console is a usual late Corrado disaster with more cracks than a builders convention...

 

Oh and the bloody sound deadening is still drying out......

 

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[Yandards 0]

Crikey its been a while since an update.

 

Suffice to say stuff has been done (quite a lot of stuff in fact), so here is a quick summary:

 

New heater matrix fitted complete with new foam on the paddles and all new seals for all of the ducts etc; I cleaned up the bottom of the heater matrix box to remove all the dead leaf gunk etc and also cleaned all the heater ducts up inside and out as far as possible.

 

An alarm appears to have been magically installed..

 

Got the plastic welding kit out and had a good go at sorting the centre console, a lot more solid than it was and the radio cage is now fitted properly.

 

Heater controls have been stripped down, lightly lubed in all the right places and then refitted with some new cables, I also fitted a 3 x green LED bulb in the hope of improving the rubbish level of illumination but it's not good enough :(

 

Moddified the head unit I had laying around from blue and white text on the main screen to green and white text by fitting some green filter plastic, looks very 90s.

 

Interior all rebuilt, cleaned up, sound deading foam added to various points, extensive use of waxoil in all the cavities (rear arches and the sills), carpet, dash and door cards all refitted properly using the correct/new fasteners.

 

Then it was onto the suspension work, new standard shocks fitted front and rear with new top mounts, used but refurbished VR6 springs, new wishbone bushes (R32 rear ones), new track rod ends, new ball joints, new arb links and new arb bushes. Stance is now back to 'off road VR' look but it is a daily and it makes the insurance easier to deal with. The bloody drivers side inner CV joint popped apart when I was doing that side so I had to strip that down and rebuild it all; ended up cleaning all the grease out and splitting the CV joint down to ball bearings and housings.

 

Brakes were bled post line replacement, both front caliper bleed screws sheared in the housing, some penetrating oil, freeze spray, heat, Irwin bolt grippers and a hammer got them out without too much bother; as you can see from the colour of the brake fluid it had not been changed in a while!

 

Next up was the engine bay, new radiator required, PAS line to replace and some rust to get rid off. I have ended up fixing quite a few wiring loom bodges, cleaning up a lot of areas, used around 35m of wiring loom tape and fitted a lot of missing clips etc. The oil filter housing drain plug was completely nerfed so a new one has been fitted, I also replaced one of the oil pressure switches as that fell to pieces when I poked it. Inner wings on both sides had spots of rust thats been cut back, treated and then painted with 2 layers of Zinga and then 2 layers of stonechip guard - it's matt black but you cant really see it where it's been painted. Cleaned out the old water expansion tank to get rid of all the gunk, I was chuffed that when refilled with fresh coolant you can now see the level with ease, windscreen washer bottle has had a similar treatment. Suffice to say it now looks a lot better and the wiring should last a good few years longer.

 

After all that I went to start it yesterday to establish the levels for coolant and oil, turned over but didn't fire checked for spark, nothing. Plugged VAG-COM in and couldn't get that to talk to the engine ECU but it would talk to the ABS one. Thought I could smell fuel so figured the ECU was working ok and then started checking the coil pack for faults, nothing. After an afternoon spent with the multimeter and the Motronic fault finding process I finally narrowed it down to a dodgy ECU relay and a plug missing from the back of the fusebox (Y1 - it provides the ECU memory with permanent live to save fault codes). Eventually got it started by wiggling the ECU relay in the board to then find the replacement radiator I fitted has a hairline crack new the drivers side top front duct screw hole :( Tried a spot of plastic welding on it so will go and see how that holds out today.

 

Still need to refurb and rebuild the drivers seat but apart from that and the bodywork needing a good going over it's not been too bad.

 

Random selection of images below:

 

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[Danny B 0]

Thats interesting what you did in March with you number plate suround......I often find one side of the black surround popped out of mine, and having never had the inclination to figure it out, I just use to push it back in.

 

I havent read anything before about it on the forum either, so I didnt think much of it really.

[Jim 1]

Awesome skills Yan... really wish I had your abilities and motiviation! :)

[Portent 0]

Nice. Love the head unit. Very old skool.

[VWVW 1]

Great skills and nice pictures for reference...noticed in the pic that your battery tray area is painted black. What have you used for this ?

[fla 9]

Yan, really impressive work, attention to detail is superb. Do you find the acoustic foam makes a difference over the standard stuff?

[KIPVW 0]

Truly laughable mate, your updates are something like a beginers guide to everything :) quality stuff!