corrado wannabe 12 Posted November 18, 2015 Folks, Had an electrical moment on the way home the other night, battery light came on and stayed on, now all sorts of strange issues going on. I think it is pointing at being the alternator as it is only a 6 month old bosch silver battery. Anyone know of a good source for an alternator (new)? ECP are selling Lucas replacements, but I thought the original fitment was Bosch? Any experience of the Lucas ones? looking to get something ordered ASAP so all advice would be grateful. Car is a 1994 9A valver, so is it the 90 amp alternator that should be fitted? Thanks Dougie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corrado wannabe 12 Posted November 19, 2015 Anyone any thoughts? Has anyone replaced just the voltage regulator? If so where did you source it from? Many thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted November 19, 2015 I googled a local auto electrical shop and just went in there with an old alternator, they ordered me a bosch one (i had to wait a big as it came from Germany) Cost something like £260. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corrado wannabe 12 Posted November 19, 2015 Gulp, £260 exchange! Thanks Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon green 5 Posted November 19, 2015 When mine played up,I got it re-conditioned at my local main dealers ! I went from a 90amp to a 120 amp for the same price as a normal recon, I can't remember the price (about 3 years ago) but it certainly wasn't any where the prices you were quoted ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted November 20, 2015 chances are a £10 ebay regulator will fix it , if its more than that find a local elec rebuild place and they will repair it for much less than what a new one costs theres even youtube vids if you can operate a spanner and diy it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted November 20, 2015 I had issues with my alternator last winter which caused the car to run out of electricity and stop. Tried a regulator first but didn't fix things. Then bought an ebay refurbished/exchange unit which initially showed 13.5v but over a month of use started showing 12.5v. Contacted the seller who sent me a replacement, next day which has been on the car since. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corrado wannabe 12 Posted November 20, 2015 Well, Just to update, As the car is at home I got my old man to get the serial numbers off it, turns out previous owner has fitted a 65amp instead of a 90amp. So my thoughts of just getting a regulator may have flown out the window. Will update if I have any more info later today. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted November 20, 2015 65 amp should be sufficient for a 16v, as its the cold cranking amps that make the difference. VR6 requires much higher CCA which is why the 90A is fitted, and 120A for cars with A/C. It depends on the load at the time, but 65A should be more than sufficient even for night running with everything switched on. I'd change the regulator first as already suggested, and see how you get on mate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted November 20, 2015 65 amp should be sufficient for a 16v, as its the cold cranking amps that make the difference. VR6 requires much higher CCA which is why the 90A is fitted, and 120A for cars with A/C. It depends on the load at the time, but 65A should be more than sufficient even for night running with everything switched on. I'd change the regulator first as already suggested, and see how you get on mate. I'm pretty sure my valver had a 65A fitted and the replacement was 70A, which works fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corrado wannabe 12 Posted November 20, 2015 Oooffftt, I'm getting more confused (very easy!) So it looks like 65amp is a fitment on the 9A engine. I assumed it was 90amp and 120 amp for VR's on late cars. So my next question for those that changed the regulator on ebay, is it a generic regulator, as the ones I have seen do specify particular bosch models? I assume that the regulator needs to be matched to the particular ampage of the alternator? I promise I am not being lazy here guys, just that I am at work and the car is at home, so I cant look at the regulator and take part numbers etc. If no one has the info its cool I will just need to wait until the weekend to get a look at the old girl. Dougie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted November 20, 2015 Ask around for someone with a multimeter to check the output that the alternator is providing first. I'd do that before spending money on anything, just to ensure it is that at fault. Definitely check your own alternator for part number too, as if its been changed, who knows what it has been changed with, especially if it was fitted at an independant garage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted November 20, 2015 Also make sure the belt is tight and isn't slipping. I bought a meyle regulator for mine and it cost about a tenner but didn't fix the problem despite the bushes on the original being clearly worn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corrado wannabe 12 Posted November 20, 2015 I have a multimeter so I will do that at the weekend. I checked the belt, and although not as tight as I would like it, has about a three quarter turn when twisting. As most have experienced, the belt is at the very end of the tensioner with no more adjustment, which I always find strange. Part number on the alternator is: 027 903 015 (I managed to describe to the wife what an alternator is and she took a photo and sent it to me!) Thanks for all the great help so far folks Dougie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveo29 0 Posted November 20, 2015 search for a bosch regulator , no it doesnt have to be matched to the output on yours , just make sure its the same style Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corrado wannabe 12 Posted November 23, 2015 Ok so a quick update, I got a chance to test the battery with a multi meter, was showing 11.7 volts at 2000rpm with lights and blower etc on. Googled Bosch regulator on Fleebay and got a million results, so made a cup of tea and started looking through the list. After humming and hawing, decided to go out and get the part number of the one on the car, googled that and got a brand new Bosch regulator from Amazon for 21 quid. Hopefully that will sort the problem when I get it changed over on Tuesday. Many thanks for all the help so far, Dougie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted November 23, 2015 Normally if the brushes are worn the shortest one will have sooty deposits on the end from arcing. The new brushes will come with straight ends that need to wear concave into the slip rings to perform at there best (a bit like new brake pads and old disks there performance will improve as they bed in) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites