Rear Suspension problem

[Goldie 2]

A couple of years ago i did a full strip down and rebuild of my car. This included every bush, bearing etc. The car is fitted with KW V1 suspension.

 

I now have a knock coming from the passenger side rear of the car. I have checked all the obvious stuff, boot floor, boot lid itself, rear interior trims, seats. I have looked underneath at the exhaust and all heat shields, nothing found.

 

I have found one thing that doesn't seem right. The passenger side top mount isn't tightened down as far as the drivers side. The nut needs to be at 25Nm. I cannot see however how i can get that torque setting on the nut as the threaded bar of the coilover just turns when tightening the nut.

 

I have removed the coilover and it seems ok, no fluid leaks, spring is in good shape.

 

So:

 

Are the coilers meant to be able to turn during tightening?

Is it normal that i can compress the piston inside the coilover by hand?

Has anyone else had this issue?

If it isn't the coilover has anyone else had a 'knocking in the rear' that sounds like metal against the car body and if so where was it?

Does anyone else hate it when their car is a pain (in the rear)?

[blue95 0]

Maybe try swapping the rear shocks around?

[fendervg 30]

Are the coilovers the same as stock struts, where you hold the strut in place with a hex key, and then use a hollow or open socket to tighten the nut?

[Goldie 2]

At the top of the thread there is a pair of flats for putting a small spanner on.

[babygrlliz 10]

A couple of years ago i did a full strip down and rebuild of my car. This included every bush, bearing etc. The car is fitted with KW V1 suspension.

 

I now have a knock coming from the passenger side rear of the car. I have checked all the obvious stuff, boot floor, boot lid itself, rear interior trims, seats. I have looked underneath at the exhaust and all heat shields, nothing found.

 

I have found one thing that doesn't seem right. The passenger side top mount isn't tightened down as far as the drivers side. The nut needs to be at 25Nm. I cannot see however how i can get that torque setting on the nut as the threaded bar of the coilover just turns when tightening the nut.

 

I have removed the coilover and it seems ok, no fluid leaks, spring is in good shape.

 

So:

 

Are the coilers meant to be able to turn during tightening?

Is it normal that i can compress the piston inside the coilover by hand?

Has anyone else had this issue?

If it isn't the coilover has anyone else had a 'knocking in the rear' that sounds like metal against the car body and if so where was it?

Does anyone else hate it when their car is a pain (in the rear)?

Coil over piston is normal to move by hand

The diff in the bolt is not good and needs fixed and the knock is the coilover/housing is not seated properly and or tightened . When u grab it can you move the housing? And can be the wrong coil over set for your vehicle.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[babygrlliz 10]

Coil overs and struts are two different things and yes that is right

Are the coilovers the same as stock struts, where you hold the strut in place with a hex key, and then use a hollow or open socket to tighten the nut?

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[Tjninny 10]

Can’t help,(yet!!!) but I’ve got exactly the same issue, but with Bilstein B12 set up not coillies.

I can’t remember when it started as I don’t use the car that much, but I’m sure it was last summer. It sounds as you said to be metal on metal passenger rear - checked everything including calliper carrier to hub bolts as well as everything else in the area, and also taken off trim panel next to rear seat. I can get the noise every time I drive over a slight bump in the road, and even with someone sat in the back it’s not possible to pinpoint the source of the noise (it’s really annoying)The only thing I can say is that it seems to come from inside the body, under the side rear window or close to the seat belt mount on the B pillar - problem is there’s nothing in there which can move!! If I can find out what the problem is I’ll let you know.

[Dave-e 10]

Can’t help,(yet!!!) but I’ve got exactly the same issue, but with Bilstein B12 set up not coillies.

I can’t remember when it started as I don’t use the car that much, but I’m sure it was last summer. It sounds as you said to be metal on metal passenger rear - checked everything including calliper carrier to hub bolts as well as everything else in the area, and also taken off trim panel next to rear seat. I can get the noise every time I drive over a slight bump in the road, and even with someone sat in the back it’s not possible to pinpoint the source of the noise (it’s really annoying)The only thing I can say is that it seems to come from inside the body, under the side rear window or close to the seat belt mount on the B pillar - problem is there’s nothing in there which can move!! If I can find out what the problem is I’ll let you know.

 

Sounds like it may be the exhaust , either hitting the rear axle or rear bumper .

[Jim Bowen 1]

I've had trouble with knocking from the rear since putting mine back together. Did end up being the exhaust, hitting the axle and then the lip of the backbox hitting on the rear exhaust bracket. Still not got it right after about 4 attempts.

 

When you compress the shock by hand, is it giving a fair bit of resistance and then returning to extended position on its own?

 

The only other knocking I've had from rear was the rear speakers not probably fitted. I only just worked out the speaker screws into the parcel shelf support, someone must have snapped all those bits off mine years ago

[vr6monkey 1]

SNAP!!!

 

I have exactly the same issue. I have a Magnex backbox and suspension is dropped by about 40mm. I get a knock when I hit any bumps whilst cornering or on roundabouts. I'm convinced its the exhaust hitting the rear beam when its under load, but no obvious signs of rub and everything seems tight and as it should be.

 

I'm not worrying about it.

[Goldie 2]

That sounds exactly the same as where i am.

[Goldie 2]

Sounds like it may be the exhaust , either hitting the rear axle or rear bumper .

 

I can wiggle the exhaust by hand and it doesn't touch anything under the car. The noise doesn't appear to be hollow enough to be there exhaust, it is a lot more solid.

[Goldie 2]

I've had trouble with knocking from the rear since putting mine back together. Did end up being the exhaust, hitting the axle and then the lip of the backbox hitting on the rear exhaust bracket. Still not got it right after about 4 attempts.

 

When you compress the shock by hand, is it giving a fair bit of resistance and then returning to extended position on its own?

 

The only other knocking I've had from rear was the rear speakers not probably fitted. I only just worked out the speaker screws into the parcel shelf support, someone must have snapped all those bits off mine years ago

 

The coilover compresses by hand easily and returns to its original position when turned with a spanner (either clockwise or anticlockwise)

[Goldie 2]

Can’t help,(yet!!!) but I’ve got exactly the same issue, but with Bilstein B12 set up not coillies.

I can’t remember when it started as I don’t use the car that much, but I’m sure it was last summer. It sounds as you said to be metal on metal passenger rear - checked everything including calliper carrier to hub bolts as well as everything else in the area, and also taken off trim panel next to rear seat. I can get the noise every time I drive over a slight bump in the road, and even with someone sat in the back it’s not possible to pinpoint the source of the noise (it’s really annoying)The only thing I can say is that it seems to come from inside the body, under the side rear window or close to the seat belt mount on the B pillar - problem is there’s nothing in there which can move!! If I can find out what the problem is I’ll let you know.

 

This is exactly where i am. It doesn't need to be a big dip in the road.

[vr6monkey 1]

I can wiggle the exhaust by hand and it doesn't touch anything under the car. The noise doesn't appear to be hollow enough to be there exhaust, it is a lot more solid.

 

 

Yep, exactly the same, a fairly solid 'clonk' noise.

 

Can't think what else it can be - I've emptied the boot area and it definitely comes from passenger side at the back. Never seem to get clonk noise when driving in a straight line, which is why I wonder if it is the rear beam under load on corners, combined with the suspension compressing for a bump in the road?

 

I'd be interested in any other theories.

[Tjninny 10]

Not sure my noise is from my exhaust, although it’s a recently (last year)fitted jetex with new hangers. I’ve been underneath and checked but the exhaust doesn’t touch - obviously can’t see when driving, but the noise sounds more like a tapping on or in the bodywork next to the rear seat. Suppose it could be transmitting through body from underneath but as I say it doesn’t sound like the exhaust. Think my next step to eliminate the exhaust will be to wrap it where it goes over the rear beam and see from there. I’m certain it’s nothing dangerous or about to fall off but it’s effing annoying!!

[Goldie 2]

Update.

 

I have managed to get the rear top bolts all correctly torqued up and sitting as they should be.

 

Has it fixed the noise? Erm no.. Bugger..

[tonedef 8]

Is the lower bush on the strut OK? How about the brake bias valve, it's in that corner although I wouldn't have thought it substantial enough to clunk.

 

I've had the rear coilovers out of mine today to fit new platforms as they were seized up, mine are Konis but they have three nuts on the rears and I'm sure yours will be very similar. Is the lower nut that holds the spacer and spring top cap down to the shoulder on the rod tight? If not that might allow some movement and a clunk. The spacer I'm thinking of is part 8 in this screenshot.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]93403[/ATTACH]

[Harrier 1]

Hi Michael

It might be worth you sitting in the back of the car with someone else driving, if you hold the top of the strut while driving along you might be able to feel the clunk which could be in the strut itself.

 

That’s if you trust anyone to drive your car!! :)

[Goldie 2]

Is the lower bush on the strut OK? How about the brake bias valve, it's in that corner although I wouldn't have thought it substantial enough to clunk.

 

I've had the rear coilovers out of mine today to fit new platforms as they were seized up, mine are Konis but they have three nuts on the rears and I'm sure yours will be very similar. Is the lower nut that holds the spacer and spring top cap down to the shoulder on the rod tight? If not that might allow some movement and a clunk. The spacer I'm thinking of is part 8 in this screenshot.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]93403[/ATTACH]

 

Which bush do you mean? The rear beam bush? The rest of the suspension is built up as per the picture.

[Goldie 2]

Hi Michael

It might be worth you sitting in the back of the car with someone else driving, if you hold the top of the strut while driving along you might be able to feel the clunk which could be in the strut itself.

 

That’s if you trust anyone to drive your car!! :)

 

Darren, you know me too well. My dad very politely sat in the boot but nothing obvious from in there. The noise is audible outside the car so will resume the hunt underneath.

[tonedef 8]

Which bush do you mean? The rear beam bush? The rest of the suspension is built up as per the picture.

 

I wondered if the lower bush in the damper was OK, where it connects to the rear beam, any movement?

 

Then on the blow up of the damper, there are three number 15 nuts, the lowest one of those holds sleeve number 8 and the spring top cap down against a collar on the damper rod. You could have the top two nuts tight and preventing any movement there (which you've checked) whilst still having movement lower down because the lower nut isn't tight.

[Goldie 2]

I wondered if the lower bush in the damper was OK, where it connects to the rear beam, any movement?

 

Then on the blow up of the damper, there are three number 15 nuts, the lowest one of those holds sleeve number 8 and the spring top cap down against a collar on the damper rod. You could have the top two nuts tight and preventing any movement there (which you've checked) whilst still having movement lower down because the lower nut isn't tight.

 

I have checked the lower nut is torqued correctly so feel my hunt will be in the lower area of the suspension. Ill check the bushing on the coilover itself.

 

Interestingly i cannot get the car to make the noise by pushing down on the boot lip and bouncing the suspension.

[Dox 22]

Park the rear wheels on blocks of timber and get underneath while someone gets jiggy with the boot lid.

 

Make sure it’s safe before getting underneath!

[Goldie 2]

Fixed.

 

Rear brake caliper to carrier bolts loose, hand tight passenger side and not much better drivers side. Both rear axle bushes not tight enough.

 

I have checked and re-torqued every bolt. Lesson here is double check everything and then check it again.