Anyone bought a vr6 maf lately

[Cressa 44]

Thinking of replacing the airflow sensor on my vr6. 0280 217 504    021 906 462.

Now I know this is a later one, but I was wondering if anyone has sourced a decent one. I intend on cleaning mine tomorrow as when I unplug it, there is no change!

[1xshaunx1 27]

I think the oe/ Bosch are nla. or very expensive. I used that maf cleaner in my thread and mine came back to life and still good. 

[1xshaunx1 27]

Whats your symptoms. Is it rough when cold warm, over 80, or both

[_Matt_ 32]

About 18 mths I stumped up the c250quid for a bosch one following poor engine data results on a jp group maf. I tried cleaning the original to no avail.

 

My symptoms were missing/coughing on revs from idle.

 

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[Cressa 44]

17 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

I think the oe/ Bosch are nla. or very expensive. I used that maf cleaner in my thread and mine came back to life and still good. 

Just trying that now as a quick fix. The mesh grille is a bit dirty, so the sensor may be..

17 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

Whats your symptoms. Is it rough when cold warm, over 80, or both

Shite when cold, Happier when warm but unplugging the MAF made no change

13 hours ago, MJA said:

About 18 mths I stumped up the c250quid for a bosch one following poor engine data results on a jp group maf. I tried cleaning the original to no avail.

 

My symptoms were missing/coughing on revs from idle.

 

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Definitely the same symptoms. I hate the car at idle.  I was having a good read of a thread you had posted. I may just bite the bullet of a Bosch.

Classic now list this part, but it does mean getting hammered on import tax ££££

 

There isn't much I haven't changed, so this must be the last part hopefully.  I was worried it may have a plug or lead down and that would be a bitch with a Schrick on top as that's how it feels at idle.

Watch this space,

Thanks Gents

[1xshaunx1 27]

Ecu doesn’t read the maf until the engine is warm 80 C and above, before that it runs on a cold map. So l think if it runs crap from cold it may be something else I’m afraid. Generally a poor maf as above will run not bad when cold and go lumpy and crappy as soon as the temps pick up

Cut slots in the screws if you don’t have the bolt/screw fitting/socket and remove the maf from the plastic housing. Give it a good squirting and don’t touch the surface with anything else. 

[Cressa 44]

27 minutes ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

Ecu doesn’t read the maf until the engine is warm 80 C and above, before that it runs on a cold map. So l think if it runs crap from cold it may be something else I’m afraid. Generally a poor maf as above will run not bad when cold and go lumpy and crappy as soon as the temps pick up

Cut slots in the screws if you don’t have the bolt/screw fitting/socket and remove the maf from the plastic housing. Give it a good squirting and don’t touch the surface with anything else. 

Cheers Shaun. I thought I read that the cold map was taken from a blue sensor,  but this was changed for genuine only a couple of years ago. 

I do wonder if it is on its ar#e due to me switching the wrong socket for the trickle charger and the car went flat for about 2 weeks before I noticed. Thinking it lost all of its settings. But I cant get it out as its blocked in by another project 🤬🤬

[fendervg 32]

Hmm - yeah, MAF is really only used for hot running when the full ECU map kicks in - I'd be looking for vacuum leaks and leaky injectors first for cold running issues.

[Cressa 44]

I had half an hour with the car today. Plugged in my VCDS which isnt brilliant, but it did show up the fault codes of everything I had unplugged.  Maf, potentiometer.... cleared and not reappeared.  

I have a niggle about it not firing on all 6 cylinders but in having a Schrick manifold, access to the plugs isnt easy. But I did fit new NGK ones and leads when I fitted the Schrick last year, so they should be okay, maybe... 

Then I decided to put some gloves on and pull the leads at the coil pack, one at a time.  And I got this:

Nearest to me top and bottom both arc'd and caused the engine to run badly when disconnected one at a time.

Furthest to me top and bottom both arc'd and caused the engine to run badly when disconnected one at a time.

Middle 2...... no change, no arcing,  nothing.

So I would think that leads me to the coil pack, what do others think? Yes it could be just those 2 leads and plugs, but how could I test this further? Hmmm

[1xshaunx1 27]

I have a coil pack if you want to try one 

[Dox 23]

Get a spare lead and plug and test for a spark on those 2 cylinders?

[Cressa 44]

6 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

I have a coil pack if you want to try one 

Yes mate. If you are around tomorrow I could call over 👍

4 hours ago, Dox said:

Get a spare lead and plug and test for a spark on those 2 cylinders?

Great idea Dox, thanks. 

 

I think I read somewhere that the coil pack are linked in pairs, I don't know how they work anyway,  so might just do a bit of studying on theae

[Cressa 44]

-https://the-corrado.net/topic/57324-vr6-coil-pack-issue/

Just read this. It talks about ICM... is that ignition coil module?... or something else

[1xshaunx1 27]

12 hours ago, Cressa said:

-https://the-corrado.net/topic/57324-vr6-coil-pack-issue/

Just read this. It talks about ICM... is that ignition coil module?... or something else

It’s the bit on the coil pack with the plug for the wiring from the ecu. You remove this from the oe coil pack when doing the mod using the Bosch motor sport coil pack mod, as in ABV’s thread, that he got from vortex. Yours must be dead, so you still need another coil pack. 

[1xshaunx1 27]

 

[Crasher 3]

New hot wire AMM’s are impossible to find, I had one from a company in Lithuania and it was worse than the old one.

[1xshaunx1 27]

1 hour ago, Crasher said:

New hot wire AMM’s are impossible to find, I had one from a company in Lithuania and it was worse than the old one.

What does this mean? I the the last bit 😂😂

[Cressa 44]

A huge thank you to Shaun and his delivery service. He dropped off an ignition coil pack for me to try,  15 minute job and it's a different car. Glad to have her back working. 

Nice to know I will only be buying a new coil pack and not a MAF as well.

Everyone needs a Corrado friend close by 💪

 

[_Matt_ 32]

That is excellent news and a coil is easier/cheaper than a MAF so win win. I have an extension plate on my coil to stop it getting so hot (and perhaps prevent it cracking?). I got it off the Facebook group but forget the name of the seller, perhaps someone can remind me? It was 25 quid or thereabouts and seemed a good bit of preventative modding.


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[Cressa 44]

29 minutes ago, MJA said:

That is excellent news and a coil is easier/cheaper than a MAF so win win. I have an extension plate on my coil to stop it getting so hot (and perhaps prevent it cracking?). I got it off the Facebook group but forget the name of the seller, perhaps someone can remind me? It was 25 quid or thereabouts and seemed a good bit of preventative modding.


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I have a Phenolic spacer plate too. Well a piece of hard plastic thingy to keep it off the head. I don't see any cracks from heat but it is knackered in the middle 2 sockets. 

Turns out this is a Bremi item, so I assume was changed by someone. I may just treat her to a Beru item ££££££

[_Matt_ 32]

Yes Beru is the best though I bought a Bremi back in 2018 when I was fault finding before the car went off to Stealth and it's still ok today... for now..