Dubcharged

Exactly! :lol: I have already taken out one of the rear seats, but its been replaced with something a bit heavier. It makes you laugh if you sniff it :D

My Rallye is about the samne weight as the raddo! Think i might try and strip it out a bit :D I am still doing the 3.5 bar FPR 8)

Also, its advisable to replace the fuel pump. The 8v pumps are not very good. Its best to go to the breakers and pick up the 16v unit with the swirl pot and mounting brackets.

Rams: Those scoobies are overrated, they lose a lot of power through their tranny, they are stonking up to 60 but then seem to lose steam. Just to show that us G60 boys have some fun too: Modified Jap spec scooby WRX- 0 (Apparently with 280bhp) G60 - 1 Modified Celica GT4 - 0 G60 - 1 Clio Sport - 0 G60 - 1 new BMW M3 - 1 G60 - 1 (But the look on his face was priceless!! ) Porsche GT3 - 1 G60 - 0 (I had to try!!!)

Ouch. When did you buy the car? Cracked piston is very odd, usually if something was to go then it'd be a ring or an edge would show signs of lean out in which case the valves would also show some damage. Just curious as to the chip, did you buy the car with it in there?

Love that black charger! Mean!! Twin inlets, think about it: How much do Jabba charge for the R1?? which is increasing the inlet of the charger by a couple mill. Twin inlets increases the inlet area by 100%!!! Just gotta make sure you draw cold air in!

The bypass hose throws pre-heated boost back into the charger which then heats up the air more and this then goes through the intercooler making the intercooler even hotter. Also, the oil vapours from the breather coats the inside of the ic making it less effective, and dilutes the octane in the petrol leading to a less intense combustion process.

Putting the filter in the wing is the best way, just make sure it wont get damaged by debris or excessive water. Alternative to rerouting the ISV, you can just stick a breather filter on it! Banana: I'm glad there's someone else out there who has realised the benefits of removing the bypass pipe! :D

harry - My apologies for the lack of response, you must have mailed the guys in the states cos they only cater for customers on their side of the pond. UK and European customer mails are sent to me if i'm not contacted directly via my mail in my sig. Yes the 3.5bar FPR is a must with the chip since we've mapped for the higher fuel pressure. With the chip and pulley, you next focus should be on improving cold air flow to the intake filter. Heat saps power in a big way! Cone filters increase the surfaec area through which the charger can draw air from but must be shielded from engine heat. A good way to do this is by either making (or buying) a heat shield OR put the filter in the wing where the charcoal canister is!! I'm based in East London, would be happy to help you out if you're unsure about fitting the chip yourself.

If you remove the bypass, you can either block off the end of the charger with a blanking plate, or put a second filter on it. At the throttle body end, you will see a 90 degree bend rubber hose which goes into the plastic bypass pipe. This can be turned away from facing the engine bay otherwise the constantly venting air will make a lot of noise as it hits tubes/wires/etc etc. I will be doing a step by step procedure for this on the SNS site once its finally done :( As for adjusting the throttle linkages, you wont get more boost, but you will be feeding more of the available boost to the engine. There is a danger in doing this since you'll be feeding boost to an engine whose ECU is still in closed loop mode. Therefore your fuelling is still cycling between rich and lean yet your engine is being loaded with more boost than usual. :shock: We're currently testing some code which wll ensure your ECU provides the engine with correct fuelling under boost with or without WOT switch activation.

The ratios in the G60 box suck for 0-60 since we have to change to 3rd to hit that magic number. However, on the road against other cars it shouldn't matter much. 185hp sounds about right but peak power doesnt tell the whole story. If 2 cars with 185hp go against one another and one car has a better throttle response and a better power curve (quicker build rate), then guess which car will come out on top????

You're right, they did come in 2 variants, the other is a 6 pot which is weaker (apparently). One of the big charger killers is heat (destroys the seals). The smaller the pulley the faster it spins therefore the more heat it generates. There are a couple of things that can be done to minimise heat: Remove the bypass pipe and route a cold air feed to the filter. External Oil cooler. I've tried and tested 68's, 65's and 62's. My personal favourite is the 65 and thats what i'm currently using. :D

Interesting! I use a Schrick 268, great for mid and top. Idle is nice too! :D

I use a gauge which shows PSI, doesn't really matter which you have, just a matter of preference. Although if/when you go for a ported charger and 68mm pulley or smaller then you might wanna get a gauge which reads to 1.5bar/20psi or higher since you'll probably be making 1 bar boost or even a bit more!

You'll only get a vac reading on idle and part throttle, boost will register with over half full throttle. Peak boost will be under full throttle at around 5500rpm - 6krpm

Try the small pipe coming out of the end of the inlet manifold (on the left as you look at it). 8)

My G60 has a dodgy fuel gauge, i put some injector cleaner in once and tried to use up most of the petrol, the gauge showed empty but i was still able to do 30 miles!!

I'm using Red Dot 6 groove disks and pads on mine. There have been a few road tests and the Red Dots have come out on top on a few occassions.

Just try resetting the mixture using that gas analyser.

There's nothing magical about a 68mm pulley. Its just that this size of pulley has been widely used so people get scared of going smaller. VW didnt specify that you could go to a 68mm pulley, or a 65 or 62 etc. If your charger is well looked after ie has had its service, is ported and you check the oil and change it regularly AND you have an external oil cooler to keep the heat down (heat is one of the contributors to seal failure) then a 65mm pulley should be fine to use. I used a 62mm for a few months to develop some maps, but i personally didnt like it since you had to change gear at 6k and i felt it was providing to much boost low down and the head isn't so efficient in flow. I then switched to a 65 and love it. For those who have the 6 port chargers, make sure the charger is in very god nick before going 65 / 62. Obviously as mentioned before, you need to match the fuelling to the boost!

Baz, when you select the pulley size the limit is shown by the red arrow and the limit figure that they display is just the closest lower 500rpm increment. On a 65, the limit is near more than 6500 since thay say 13000rpm is the charger design limit and it reaches 12899 at 6500. So i just change at 6200 - 6300. I wouldn't go so far on an unported charger of course :shock:

SNS?? we dont rebuild chargers!! Perhaps you mean SLS in Germany?? :D Take out your spark plugs and have a look at their condition, also check that they are the correct ones! Checked the vac lines etc?

Nope you dont need to touch the O2 sensor cos your gonna be making peak boost under WOT therefore the sensor is bypassed anyway. I've pm'd you a quote on the injectors :D

Basically you don't need 30lb injectors until you're making 15psi and over. :D

Check the basics; check the vac lines especially the one which goes to ecu. Check your grounds, check the spark plugs. What plugs are you using? What mods?