Dubcharged

Just spent HOURS cleaning, waxing, buffing my car .... what happens when i'm finished.......... RAIN ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Why does this always happen to me? :(

My sincere apologies for the lack of traction you now have!! :lol: :lol:

Also the standard fuel pump runs at its maximum on the 3.5bar fpr. The 4 bar would push the 8v pump too far. To run a 4bar fpr reliably you'll need to uprate the pump to a 16v one.

You wont need bigger injectors unless you make at least 16psi boost. Stick a boost gauge in and go for the 68mm pulley. Not sure what effect the smaller pulley will have on the chip. Assuming it was mapped for the 70mm pulley then you'll need to change the chip also. Using a smaller pulley wont mean your cam will not work as well. G60 aftermarket cams are mild and give you that bit extra at around 5800-6000 rpm. The smaller pulley just means you gotta change gear earlier in the rpm range. WIth the 68mm you should change at 6300rpm so the cam will still do its job.

Damn, ya beat me to it :lol: :lol: Must be getting slow! make sure its a 68mm not a 63mm cos even on te 68 you are running the injectors to nearly full capacity. Get your charger down to pitstop/g-werks for a proper flow! I will be in London from Wednesday till the 5th Jan. You could come and meet me for a wideband set up on an SNS chip, would enable me to write you a custom map. That goes to anyone here who needs a wideband analysis on there SNS chipped motors.

RR figures mean.........not much to be honest. Its all about what the car does on the road, the power curve characteristic is actually more important than the peak figure. Also things like, throttle response, gearing, drivers balls come into play. :lol: Its a good way to gauge the effect of modifications, but as mentioned i'd prefer to have a group thrash to check performance rather than a RR anyday!

Proper Crimbo!

Where are you based??

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: You put an SNS chip from another G60 into your 2litre G60......and without a 3.5bar FPR, running a 65mm pulley on a 2 litre!!!!!!!!!! SHHTOPP!! Our chips are not that generic, they are specifically tailored to certain mods etc, you have to use a 3.5bar fpr and being a 2litre you cannot stick in an SNS from another car (unless the other car was also a 2 litre with your mods) You need: 1) The right chip 2) an Fpr 3) maybe bigger injectors depending on boost Phew

If you do go for a smaller pulley then fuelling becomes more of an issue. Digi-Lag will cause more damage when you can boost quicker!

This one is also more to the drivers side (RHD). The other one is downstream of the bypass butterfly. I cant believe VW designed the two outlets so close to each other yet they are totally opposite in function!! So easy to get mixed up!! The vac line to the ecu is really the jugular of the G60. Everyone pease make sure yours is secure on bothe ends. If this comes of whilst in full boost......bad things could happen :?

Could you have maybe damaged some circuitry in the ecu whislt swapping chips? Did you ground yourself before touching the chips/ecu?? sounds strange that this has just started after the chip swaps. Check that the ecu harness is connected propery. Sometimes the connector pins on the harness bend back and so connection to the ecu pins doesnt happen properly. Take the harness off and with a small pointy object "GENTLY" pry the catch pins forward to ensure a good connection to the ecu pins.

And this is where the G60 boys can physically see the digi-lag in action on the gauge!!!

Or get em from me 8)

Nice product Kev. I recommend all performance car owners especially G60's to have an A/F gauge just in case. Couple of points to remember though: The reading on any gauge is only as good as the lambda it reads from. When using the standard lambda, you cannot accurately get readings above stoich (14.7:1) ie you cannot use it to fine tune your motor in the WOT range. It will show you rich/stoich/lean but just as an indication, not an accurate figure which nevertheless is very essential to know. For tuning purposes you have to use a wideband lambda which is where the cost surges since as the name suggests these are accurate up to around 9:1. Keep up the good work Kev, its about time people started to see what their engines are being subjected to!

YEP! Standard G60 is a wolf in sheep's clothing. TAKE OFF THAT SHEEP SUIT!!! :lol: But be warned, some chips retain the sheeps balls :lol: :lol:

You know you guys could open a G60 repairs garage and between you you'll probably know more than a lot of these "specialist" garages out there!! As mentioned, first thing to check os the vac line to the ecu: It should come off the back of the throttle body (the upper outlet on the passenger side if you are Left hand drive) and should have no splits etc in it all the way to the ecu. Plugs should be Bosch W6DPO

Sometimes the CO Pot is set to very high resistance ie 1250 from a garage so doesnt automatically mean its dead, just try adjusting it and it shoud change resistance.

I had a hard enough time getting used to the world north of the M25, now i gotta come to terms with the south too??!?! God help me!!

Congrats, I guess i'll be making the trip south of the M25 on my wknds too now :lol: As if travelling from newcastle to london wasnt enough :lol:

hmmmm, we could develop a chip for the stock boost boys, but that kind of defeats the purpose of having a G60. A 68mm pulley requires a service interval of 40k? that'd take a while to do and you'd have a lot of fun doing those miles too! C'mon Olly, liberate your G :lol:

Dont need a dump valve. Just remove the return tube altogether and you'll have a natural dump valve - the bypass butterfly.

Yes we have a variety of maps for standard injectors. 30lb injectors are only needed when going over 16psi boost. The hall sendor/Dizzy problem: To come to a conclusion we'll need to do some more testing, this was just recently diagnosed so we're getting to the specific culprit steadily. It could be that at a certain rpm, the natural harmonic frequency for a dizzy component is reached causing phase/jitter if this component ie the hall is worn. Time will tell.

:D :D Well if you dont think that Digi-Lag is a problem for your car, ie if you dont mind your car going lean under boost before enrichment, then SNS is not an improvement for you. Seriously, you need to look on an A/F gauge or wideband plot to see the difference. The most recent person on this forum to have done this is Gazza. To Lag or not to Lag, that is the question. :lol: Try a chip before you go for the dyno, it needs setting up properly with CO and ignition timing (and fuel pressure), you cant just stick it in the ecu and hope for the best. Drive the car about and see what you think.

Well the dyno wont show you Digi-Lag - unless they hook up a wideband as well. If you have an A/F gauge then you'll see the difference. Dyno wont show you throttle response improvement as a result of No-Lag either, you'll have to use your butt dyno to feel it. You also need to use a 3.5bar FPR with our chips. Like i said, peak power may not increase, but the way it gets there on the road will! Be interesting to see though!