randal

Yeah, I'll find them one day... I tell ya, it's Henny the Borbet Baron scooping up all the spare sets. :lol: I've been looking for about a year now for a reasonably priced set, can I find one around the time I've got enough spare cash!? Pfft, Naaaaah!

wicked :D I've been looking for a 40mm drop on sebrings pic, as mine will be sporting the same very shortly. Well, until I can find a set of Borbet 'c's that fit! Same boat methinks... How is the handling btw? Notice much difference to the ride quality? ta randal

Tree? Pant? Boob? Shoe?

Oh you'll be able to tell alright. Your wipers will suck more than ever, just pushing water around the screen and missing a spot right on your field of view. Also, if you spring the wiper up (as if you were washing hte car) there will be a huge amount of play in it. Failing that, remove the linkage and you'll be able to see where it's sheared off. I'd take a pic of the one I've repaired, but it's dark and I'm lazy :D Drop me a line if you still need.

Yeah, that sounds about right. Best way is to fit 'em I guess! :) Check the state of your linkage as well, these wipers *may* cause extra strain on the mechanism causing the driver's side spline to snap off from the rest of the linkage. This stops the blade having proper contact with the window, and means you'll have to strip the linkage down, drill out the holes and drop a nut+bolt in there X2.

There was a good article on the BBC news webby about Phishing the Phishers. "The Church of the Painted Left Breast" springs to mind! randal

Yep, sounds like a Nigerian money scam to me. Dodgy...

Can't take the credit for that one. Was Mr kevhaywire's idea :)

Drill through the wiper spline shaft base, and the linkage together and use a nut and bolt to keep them together. It'll have to be a shallow headed bolt and a thin nut as to allow the mechanism to turn without hitting them. It's a 20 minute job, and will last. hth randal

Wicked! Haven't had to do any plastic welding in ages! :D

Nice one Henny. I'm not surprised in the slightest that VW do things that way, *cough* jerks! *cough* I'll take a look at lunchtime, see what bulb I need. Well, if it stops raining anytime soon.. :roll: Thanks again mate, much obliged. randal

Didn't want to create a new thread as I'm sure there's a million and 1 about this already... Like it mentions about, where is the bulb on the early heater controls? Mine has been out of action since day one (my day one). Thanks in advance randal

Yay! Another Miltek fan! I think it's more than just the exhaust system that makes me recommend John, more over the speedy service, his knowledge of the Corrado - and of course getting to see his rado in the flesh. Worth every penny!

Gauge eh? Would this be similar for a 16v? I've got random terminals by my oil cooler and near the ISV too - these the same then? ta randal

Yeah, I know about 2 seconds before me! :D

Yep, spot on - that's pretty much what I did. The only thing I'll add to that is cover the upside down "L" shaped in copper grease or something, reason being they corrode and can rust through the rad giving you a water leak from the top. Learnt from 16VG60 and experience on that one!

Yep, I think you're on with 3. Prefer the colour tbh.

I guess it depends on who's money it is. Personally I wouldn't part with 8K for a pre-modded rado, however I'm willing to bet there are 100's of people who would. I'm one of the semi-purists, I believe that standard or slightly breathed on is the way to go. Again, a matter of preference. Although It's not to my taste, It'd be a shame to see it go, after watching it come together over the year or so I've been here. Stick with it, you know it makes sense. :D

In my experience bearings tend to rumble more than anything, especially when you get up to speed. They rumble to such a degree you can almost be certain 100% what corner it's coming from. CV joints are pretty easy to diagnose as they click at full lock if they are worn.

Doesn't have a name as such, but that doesn't mean I don't think of it as something personified. I normally end up talking to her (oh it's a she for sure, something that can give you that much pleasure AND grief in such a short space of time HAS to be a lady) on a daily basis. You know, keep her sweet. A "Thank you" here or a "sod you" there works a treat. :lol: Yo Tempest, those dudes in white got space in the van??

Not totally excessive. On a motorway drive of about 45 minutes, the gauge reads around 90-95, and the MFA is about 96-100. Hmm, I'm wondering about my head now - glad I've got a replacement in the works...

When enquiring about resprays in the past, I've been quoted around 60-80 quid a panel, 100 on the bonnet/roof. Paint is normally between 40-50 on top of that. It really depends on who, how good "who" is and how much "who" charges for labour. Stripping the glass out of the rear quarter, grinding away the rust, filling/prepping/priming/painting/matching/blending/laquering is going to take a good few hours too. I also recently enquired about a full respray and was told 1000-1500 quid for a 2 year job, or for something that'll last and look like a proper job you're looking around 3K easy!

How long have you left it to idle when it hits 100? Is that 100 on the MFA or on the gauge?

I'd rebuild the G60 lump whilst driving the 8V around, that way you're mobile - and you get to gauge whether or not it's out of your scope. Sounds like an interesting conversion ya got on the cards there Dave. Keep us posted :D edit - or scrap that idea completely, and charge your 2.0 lump :twisted:

PM 16VG60, he sources Miltek kits and works closely with them to provide custom solutions. I know it's not a Magnex, but I'd seriously consider them as an option. The build quality and sound are really nice, and the price is reasonable too.