MikeVR6

What about this?

In all the time I've known him he's never sold a car with MOT. Sounds suss doesn't it? Trust me though, I know most of the people he's sold cars to and if there's ever been a problem it's been VERY minor. For the sake of £25 to MOT it myself, it ain't worth the hassle asking him.

No way anybody with any sense would pay that sort of dough! After-all, these were about a tenner from VW last year (before they became obsolete). :evil: Can someone who owns one of these post up a drawing with the dimensions so we can make our own? A bit of MDF or better still a correctly vacuum formed bit of plastic would cost a fraction of that price. Alternatively, I'll swap my cassette holder for one (minus gauges) :)

Cheesy : Don't know how much the switch was, he pulled one off an old 16v Golf in the scrappies and said nothing ;) He reckons this would've made it difficult to set the engine up correctly since the switch let's the ECU know what position the throttle's at and it references the mapping accordingly. This would have knocked the engine right out. The car was really slow moving up the revs below 4000rpm before. It's now more smoother and responsive. Also, had a poblem with really lumpy cold start (like it was firing on 3 cylinders) this has now disappeared. The car seems run slightly higher revs for a few minutes when started from cold now. It never did this before. Anyway, car's much improved and according to my calculations and the MFA reading, my MPG has improved to an average of 32 with higher figures achieved on a long motorway run.

Just helped him replace the alternator on it, see what yu mean about the headlight having to come out :) Took it for another spin after. Holy s#$t does that thing go, the gears are setup just perfectly and the thing sticks to the road like it's on rails :shock: I'd be interested to see how it fairs against a G60. I reckon up to 100mph it would be ahead.

Turned out to be a bad earth on the sensor. £7.40 from VAG for a new sensor. 2mins to fit. It's located to the RHS rear of the head, just round the corner from the distributor cap. Cheers :D

Lemon, Turned out I had a dodgy throttle position switch. If you look at the top of your engine around the throttle assembly, you'll see a little microswitch that should click as you open and close the throttle. This little fella adjusts the fuel/air mixture on cold start. They're about £10 for a new one (not a Corrado specific part, a Golf 16v one will do). Once I had mine replaced, I found the lumpy startup problem was eliminated. The car should tick over at about 1,400 revs on cold startup for a few minutes then return to normal. Something which my car NEVER did before.

A fellow Club GTI member who's a mechanic has now given my car a full going over. This included, timing belt, gearbox oil, coolant flush, fuel filter and fully tuning the engine. Turned out I had a dodgy throttle microswitch. Now it's been replaced and the car's been correctly setup it is running like never before. MPG has returned to the 35-40 mark on a long run. 8) 8)

I was buying it to drive whilst my Corrado is away having some bodywork done. That should take a week or two. Then I was going to keep it until the end of the summer and sell it on at a profit (hopefully) As you guys have said. £2300 is cheap. The reason for this is it needs MOT'd and taxed. But he's a mechanic and assures me it'll pass MOT, if not he'll do any labour for free and parts are readily available from the local scrappie. I just want to be sure I'll get at least £2500 for it later on.

Nothing to do with Vee Dubs but..... My mate's selling a '95 Phase 2 Williams Clio for £2300. Just wondered if it is a worthwhile buy? He's done a lot of work replacing various bits and bobs lately and it's just had a full service including timing belt. 85k miles. Very good shape. I've driven the car and love it to bits. Frightening performance and grip. Obviously it'll not be replacing my Corrado though :)

Quick question.... Should my central locking work from inside the car? All works ok from outside with the key. However, when I push down the pin on either door whilst inside the car, it locks that door and nothing else. It's been like that since I got the Corrado. Is this another standard ''feature?''

Thanks Jim. They're 16" Speedline Chronos. Bought them with tyres for £450 second hand. Only 2 weeks old! The guy bought them for his Golf and didn't like them! Thought Speedlines would be in keeping with the Concours look, since they were fitted to VR6's.

Bought my ViperTech Dropshox suspension kit from Cheesy. He'd only had it fitted a few weeks and prefered coilovers. He was very helpful, kept me informed throughout the sale and delivered promptly with no problems. Very happy with the results too :D Top Marks! 8)

Hi Cheesy, Really happy with the ride. :D The car always handled well, even with 3 shagged shocks. :shock: Now it goes round corners like it's on rails Best £160 I ever spent 8) Just need to get my new Reg (B16 VWC) sorted out and on the car.

Nearly finished the work on my car, so here's a few pics. Let me know what you think. :D

Sounds good mannie. Although, anti fog is no good for late night suspension testing :wink: Thanks for organising the discount!

I would certainly sell the Valver and buy a VR6. You'd still have the elegance and head turning ability with a lot more tarmac tearing power to boot :evil: I love my 16v, but ideally I'd have it and a VR as well. The money's there, just a matter of finding a good example locally. Once you've driven a Corrado, no other car comes close. (trust me, I drive brand new cars every day)

Nah, Grey's crap :wink:

Nah, I think they're great. Especially in the wet! :evil:

If the cables loose, the likelyhood is it's snapped. Quite a common problem. Caused by the cable becoming snagged inside the motor because it isn't well enough lubed. It's happened to both my windows over the years. :( As far as I know, the only solution is to buy a complete motor\frame mechanism assembly. These retail at over 200 quid new. Best quote I got was 150 from GPC. :shock: I managed to get full mechanisms for both sides from a breakers for 80 pounds in the end. 8) You'll have to drill out the rivets holding everything in place when removing the old mechanism. Best to jam the window in the UP position whilst doing this. It's extremely awkward to remove the old motor, expect lot's of swaring and shredded hands. :twisted: When fitting the replacement, make sure the cable is saturated with white grease and open up the motor and grease it up too. This is the sort of job you'll NEVER want to do again. :cry: Sorry for sounding so negative, but it's best you know what's in store. Good Luck

Very nice Jimmay. Don't forget a set of clear repeaters :) Cheapest mod you'll ever do!

Hi Lemon, My '91 16v has a similar quirk. And I've also replaced leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap to no avail. Apparently this fault is caused by the Idle Stablisation Valve (ISV) becoming clogged. Easily fixed by cleaning it out with carb cleaner or soaking it in petrol overnight. If you look in the "Problems" section, there's a post titled "HELP! Corrado Doesn't Want to Idle!" There's more info there, along with a picture of the 16v engine with the offending ISV highlighted. Good Luck :)

You can get the chromed "Corrado" badge from http://www.gpcvwaudi.com they may have the "G60" badges too. The "Supercharged" badges are available from http://www.trimsport.co.uk in a variety of colours and sizes.

Brookescourt was the seller. Very prompt. Posted the items to me before cashing my cheque. Not often you get that kind of trust these days. 8)

How about a nice leather gaitor and chrome sleeve? See this Topic.... http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1120