Scott

I would never use a second hand block from a breaker without at least stripping it down and checking it for wear BEFORE installing in the car.... saves alot of hassle. Good experience too. Scott

How many miles since rebuild? Are you still using oil? You have good compressions so if you are using oil it can only really be oil scraper (control) rings or something is a miss with the head... I would stick a couple thousand miles on it mate and see how it goes.... Sun is out and I have just driven mine - puts a big grin on my face and yet no smoke :?: lol - some days it does it some it doesnt.... anyway it wont be on road for much longer - got the head booked in with engineer for 2 weeks time so will be pulling it apart shortly :( Scott

Are the no.1 and no.6 plugs still fouling up? If so then you have a problem with the bottom end - either rings / oil scraper or ovalisation..... They are good figures but again it could be the oil control rings that are shot....? :!:

lol - nutter!!! - My missus wouldnt let me put it in the brand new washing machine :shock:

Chain wax is the same as the oil used to lube ram air kits..... at least it looks and feels the same - is also much cheaper!!! :D

Nah mate - that was done at about 7pm when it was nice and cool.....

Agreed - they are high but its likely to do with the head being skimmed and the valves being re-sealed - more important is the difference between the figures... I think they are within tolerance. And I personally think it is number one to go first - then six as a few people have had this problem and number one always shows up worse. It is quite possible that the people who did your head work did not check for bore ovalisation - this is not possible to see - you see to measure it. Scott

Right - I have just been for a drive with the standard air box and original paper filter - talk about gutted - total lack of response... I seem to have to push the pedal harder to get anywhere and the engine doesnt want to rev up so fast.... So I have just cleaned the induction kit out with loads of fairy liquid and hot water to find its supposed to be grey not black :oops: - lol. So waiting for it to dry out then apply some chain wax and its going back on :D Will be building a heat shield for it with lots of cool air feeds when the head is being done. Cheers Scott

The STP is an oil thickner - therefore it WILL take much longer for the oil to reach critical areas such as cylinder heads.... it will also put more stress on the oil pump as it has to work much harder.... You might as well put 20W 50 oil in instead of STP :shock: STP is used for f**ked engines.... yours is far from that. Scott

Aerial liqui-tab??? - never heard of it!! - I assume its just washing powder type cleaner>? Scott.

Yep thats the compression tester I used - pipe is long enough to get to the VR6 plug holes.

DONT put STP in the VR6 engine!!!! :shock: Its an oil thickner therefore was accelerate wear on your new cylinder head!!!

Will give it a go :) cheers!!! What about running carb cleaner through it?

Where do you live? - I could do it for you or you could go and buy a compression tester from halfords for £20 and do it yourself - very easy. Just make sure car is fully warmed up Fuel Pump relay is disconnected Compression tester is screwed into the plug hole accurately. Scott.

For the North West mate I would recommend Dubsport in Wrightington, Lancs - they have a good rep! Kev is your man for the ARB's.... I think Neuspeed are your best bet.... wouldnt go for poly bushes as the ride will be very hard.. For suspension Koni's or FK's your best bet. Change your engine mounts - vibra technics front mount - makes a huge difference am told - doing this myself when my engine comes apart.... :shock: Cheers Scott

Strut braces arent worth the money - better off spending that cash on uprated ARB's...

:cry: I have just had to remove my induction kit (RAM AIR) as the VR was struggling to breath - suspect the filter is dirty and certainly seems like it!! Trouble is I cant find a cleaning kit for it so I have had to take it off till can clean it properly.... already have the wax too apply... Any suggestions? - missing the noise already :oops:

:D Thats what I want to hear.... engine now done 113k miles so it aint doing too bad 8) So yeah its all steam ahead for new cylinder head - will also skim it a little (within tolerance) to up the compression - so hopefully be like new!

Well I always thought a decent engine should show compressions of over 170 - 180 psi so seem a bit low to me..... :?:

Right!!! :) Compression figures.... : No.1 - 160psi No.2 - 160psi No.3 - 159psi No.4 - 159psi No.5- 161psi No.6- 160psi Now they arent as high as they should be - but I suspect being that they are all equal that I can rule out bore wear in general. I suspect lost compression due to valve guides / ineffective sealing of the exhaust valves..... What do you reckon? And Kev - rest assured I wouldnt sell :wink: Scott

:lol: Nah mate - just sell it in winter when it doesnt happen :shock: :lol:

Relax, no one is going to slate you for that :lol: Suspension is very subjective. You might love this kit and hate the Konis/H&Rs, you just never know until you try. So I hope they work out for you. Well knowing what a fussy git you are Kev I would go along with whatever you suggested :-P

Mine pops on the overrun a little - but its more of a burble.... and only when hot.... interesting info there Kev - will be checking out the exhaust valves when the engine comes apart...

I do like the FIAT Coupe alot - the 20V Turbo is an animal :D

Why not just replace the spring then? :!: