Scott
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Everything posted by Scott
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Am based in Manchester area mate and have OBD wire / laptop and software so if need hand let me know. Scott
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:lol: :lol: Thats the most sensible suggestion put forward so far when questioned 8)
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Already got the Peter Russek manual mate - just not read it properly yet! Everyone keeps telling me its easy.... if it is then why do garages charge the earth for the job? :-P It does look as though if push comes to shove then I will drop the gearbox .... if I have to do that then I am doing the whole lot... no buts. I dont really have too rush either as have a second car can use. Cheers mate... will post up my progress when I start! Scott.
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lol thanks Phat - you make it sound easy *:) I have been told I wont need to remove camshaft sprocket bolts as like you say they are a pain - It has been mentioned I can prise of the timing chain by lifting the cams out at a tilted angle and then tie wrapping the chain up out of harms way... To be honest with you if I do find that I will have to replace tenisoners I will finish the head job off and get my local VW specialist to replace the clutch then politely mention I would like the chains and tensioners done at same.... after all I wont need to remove the head again to do the chains and tensioners eh? - a clutch change with new chains is going to be ALOT cheaper than getting them to do the full job... Having said that I might even have a go at the gearbox myself if needs doing... :shock: - it is a heavy bugger though!! :D Scott
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Am pretty sure they are all like that mate.... mine is as was my old Corrado.... its a pretty poor fit IMAO. Scott.
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I havent but I know a mate has with a standard VR6 2.9 Corrado with K&N induction kit and he did a 14.97 sec pass.... standard figure is 15.1 I believe???
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Kev: I am buying the genuine VW Head Gasket kit as I dont really want to have to do this job more than once!! I am having my engineering shop do this: Full Strip down and rebuild including new valve guides, seals, valve seat re cut and valve grind with a skim just to take off what is necesary - no more no less!, and new hydraulics. I will ask him about doing a 3 angle cut too depends on how much it costs... But so far he estimates £250 all in which aint bad I reckon! - plus £80 ish for head gasket kit.... so I reckon £400 all in with fresh fluids / filters / etc will sort it. Thats providing I dont find any problems with bores / timing chains! :cry: Do I need to take it easy after assembling do you think with a cylinder head rebuild? - Obviously when doing a bottom end its essential.... but I dont drive my VR6 much so its going to be hard to resist :twisted: Cheers Scott.
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G60 drives more like a vr6 and poor throttle response HELP!
Scott replied to raddo_g60's topic in Engine Bay
heh heh - yeah true enough -
G60 drives more like a vr6 and poor throttle response HELP!
Scott replied to raddo_g60's topic in Engine Bay
Well exactly it SHOULD sit flush :-P :lol: -
G60 drives more like a vr6 and poor throttle response HELP!
Scott replied to raddo_g60's topic in Engine Bay
Hand brake should always be fully down and flush with the console that it sits in... if it aint then its sticking... simple. -
Whats this to do with cylinder head removal mate? :roll: - keep it on topic eh?
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Didnt know about the timing tool from VW - anyone got a part number? - Would prove very useful! Nah I am not replacing the chains - too much hassle to drop the gearbox but I will be checking the upper tensioners and will replace if needed. Spline tools I have :) Cheers Scott
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Cheers Kev - will be watching this thread then. Will be doing a few odd jobs (rust proofing the front cross member for one!) so might as well do the lot whilst in bits! 8) :lol:
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Come on guys.... you can do better than that!!! :oops:
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Worth doing on own Kev? As you know mine is coming apart shortly (will be inspecting tensioners, etc) so could make some worthwhile additions although a schrick manifold is a defo no-no with the other jobs that need doing :lol: I assume they have just enlarged the butterfly area? Scott.
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Hello All! Right am in the process of getting the relevant parts together to do a full cylinder head overhaul and some general engine cleaning. Am also hoping to replace the suspension and brakes at same time but thats for another day :roll: I am after some tips for removing the cylinder head on a VR6 - I have done more than a few before but all have involved four pot engines (8 / 16V) therefore feel the VR6 is going to a little more complicated.. Anyone done this before and would like to comment on issues such as removal / timing / etc? Am basically trying to research as much as possible! Cheers Scott
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I'd forget that - break it and scrap the shell.
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Kev: I have heard that some later VR6 (1996 onwards) do in fact have the variable inlet manifold and have some sort of white plastic rod that goes inside it.... a few guys on the vortex forum have talked about it and shown how to remove and fit it.... as it does rattle badly apparently... Scott
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Nah thats heavy... Been quoted £400-500 for a top notch job which includes full front end plus the rear bumper....in pearl paint. :)
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I always find sumps are tricky to get at the bolts on gearbox end....
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Might explain why mine still pulls to the left a little after four wheel alignment...... :mad:
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Yes I agree.... it aint cheap stuff but you shouldnt be topping it up anyway... but make sure you use the correct stuff. Mines in a squarish VW metal container and is green I think.... used it on my 16V and VR6 once. Scott.
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I have never raced a R32 so I have no idea if my VR6 would keep with one - but I have totally annilated a V6 4 motion though.... :lol:
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You'll get your Butt kicked.... off the line it should be pretty much equal but once the Golf gets up to 60/70mph its torque from the 3.2 will pull it ahead.... A VR6 would have a tough time against one I would have thought.............
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A total waste to strip if you ask me..... do it up. Sell it on for £4k then you have £2k to play without spending much ......