davidwort

update for anyone considering an install, had them for a year now, they've reduced my electricity consumption by about 1/3 and have paid about £450 in Feed In Tariff, the total generation is not far off my consumption but of course I don't use all of it, up to 2/3 gets exported to the grid my total electric import for the year was about £400, so you could say I get my power for nothing now or alternatively they look set to fully pay back in about 6 years, which is good as the Feed In Tariff continues for another 19 years! The FIT for new registrations has dropped a couple of % since I signed up last year, so the returns are a tiny bit lower for new systems now, but much the same. Next on the list is a PV diverter so that instead of exporting power to the grid it will proportionally divert into my hot water tank immersion heater element, reducing my gas consumption too, the beauty of that is you get paid at 50% of generation for export regardless as the meters can't measure export only generation and import, so I get paid for exporting electricity that I use! - twice! - FIT for 100% of generation plus 50% of generation deemed as export. [ATTACH=CONFIG]80574[/ATTACH]

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=43319&highlight=injector+testing

sad to hear about the cars being up for sale Kip, must be two of the best in the country, but if you don't use them that's a shame too I was pretty sure the sherry hadn't had any glass when I had it, I know the front screen wasn't the best but I did notice it still had the registration mark etching which was probably done not long after it was new.

run a piece of cord/string around the pulleys and measure it's length, be interesting to see what you come up with, one thing I will say is that there are several sized alternator pulleys and it's not uncommon for a replacement to have the wrong size for a 16v, even VW supplied the wrong size to me when I ordered one to the chassis number!

Pretty much any 10/40 semi synthetic is fine, I think most 16v's use a bit of oil so topping up with a fully synthetic can be a bit expensive if you buy a litre every month or two. The only oil to really avoid is very light modern petrol engine oils, just too thin for the 16v tolerances.

VR6 will have a different number of splines to the rack, there are 2 types of UJ, pre and post 1992ish 22 and 36 spline

that's not an ABF inlet, the ABF one is totally different as it uses EFI I'd imagine that is an early mk2 16v inlet

yep, GSF etc can be rubbish for belts, the proper parts are odd sizes in between the standard factor sizes, in fact the genuine VW ones aren't even 10mm wide (standard V belt width) they are 9.5mm! 2.0 16v alternator belt (non aircon) should be 950mm x 9.5mm part no. 026 903 137C oh, and don't trust partsbase, the info for Corrado 16v's al looks wrong to me, as if it was 16v mk3 golf parts!!

they're very similar but I'm not sure if the 2.0 16v has the exact same vacuum connections and idle bleed screw, only other thing is the idle control microswitch that the electrical plug connects to, if all 3 of these items are on the 2L one and the same then they should just interchange, sorry but I haven't actually had them side by side myself

from my experience it's modern diesels that make the most noise when cold and that's often the early riser company car owners, not much you can do on cold morning though, you've got to clear the frost and condensation before it's safe to drive :shrug: if you want to make things a bit quicker I've a reflective material screen cover that somehow keeps condensation off the inside of the screen as well as ice off the outside, must just keep the screen temp a little higher

it is a bit confusing when CV grease is Lith Moly grease but the right grease is Low Melting

another vote for plain Castrol LM or similar, they're only taper roller bearings, you don't want CV grease or anything

that's pretty good TBH, 14cfm should power most things, you wont get a lot higher on single phase electric anyway, small respray job wont need completely continuous full air as you'll do small strokes and stop the full air use each one (trigger right in and spraying paint), my 100L 14cfm runs a large HVLP gun fine, 100L just means you have a little more buffer before the pump switches on, it's the cfm that's more important for running continuous tools like guns and sanders etc

I'm a moderator, not donator if that makes a difference?

It doesn't affect me if I use the link above I have the problem on TalkTalk at home and My work (open.ac.uk) strangely on my Samsung mobile (full desktop view switched off but not the mobile version of the site) the ad appears under the menu options, so they work, but it's still positioned incorrectly if I switch desktop view option on, then the ad goes over the top of the menu! [ATTACH=CONFIG]80485[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]80486[/ATTACH][

yep, I have had this for a month, asked the other mods about it as it affects both iPad and PC for me but no-one else seemed to have had an issue chrome is no better BTW: [ATTACH=CONFIG]80473[/ATTACH]

$45 a barrel today, it's clearly an unhealthy movement in a commodity the whole world relies on so much, the economic and political implications will take some time to play out as the rises did, I think a gradual reduction would have been better for all of us long term. I've sympathy for people who lose their jobs in Scotland over this, bubble or not, (the most immediate effect the UK will see) but it makes the SNP projections look ridiculous now (over $100 a barrel wasn't it?), just as well for Scotland they stayed in the UK, the industry needs the UK taxpayer now. And on a related matter, EON boss on the radio this am, proudly announcing a few % off their domestic gas prices, after wholesale gas has been dropping for over a year.

yeah, sounds about right but no need to put heater on any position as it doesn't affect the water flow, that's done with air flaps I usually do it like this: undo bottom rad hose, water pi55es everywhere, forget to remove expansion cap, do that then more water ****es everywhere, think it's all drained out and suddenly an air lock frees and even more ****es out... reconnect hose, fill up fairly slowly which helps to avoid big air-locks, measuring how much you put in, ensure you get close to 4 litres in the system, squeezing top and bottom rad hoses helps get some air locks out, put cap back on, run till rad fan comes on, let cool down for a few hours, then top up, also take a bit of coolant in a bottle on your first trip out in case you need to top a bit more up away from home. If you can, collect all the old coolant and measure the amount, should be about 4.5 litres, and don't dispose of it down a storm drain.

just about every engine has a separate part no. ISV but I've also found that providing the electrical connector and hoses fit then they perform much the same, they just provide a varying air bleed so you might get a slightly higher or lower idle. I've used a mk3 8v one on a 1.8 16v for years just fine even though the valve and valve head casting is different.

Just a thought, wouldn't spacers on the rear create slightly different rear suspension geometry to the correct rear wide track wishbones? As spacers are after the wishbone end and shock/spring mountings? I've been in a 20v turbo, golf MK2 synchro based Corrado and it felt very different to a Corrado, it's an amazing feat of work to complete and I admire anyone with the skill to complete it, but I'd make sure the result is the sort of car you want. my 2p, a turbo 20v ur Quattro is the way to have a German 4x4 of that era, it's properly engineered as a 4x4 and the running gear can handle the power with ease, plus it has a proper engine note :)

drill down the centre and use a screw in stud extractor, ideally you want to get some heat on it with a gas welding gun, heat/cool to help break the corrosion, vw heritage do the bolts, same as mk2 golf, replace all 4.

Happy new year to everyone! All the best for 2015 and the next summer season of car stuff.

in the end I tried some of these, work OK but not a magic solution to heavy condensation or water leaks, VEHICLE/CAR/HOME DEHUMIDIFIER BAG MOISTURE ABSORBER/DAMP EATER - SUPER 1.5 KG (Maxi) by Damp Eater http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ELK8W8C/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Cz6Oub1ZQTNNC

My 8v box was basically identical to my 1.8 16v box, only the speedo drive cable and gearshift tower were slightly different

I knew it was possible! I think it comes back to the shortcuts fitters make and particularly the correct spacers at the bottom to get the screen mm perfect while the bonding cures