davidwort

decent second hand one might be the way to go, don't forget swapping the headlight glass is pretty easy so you could use your current one if a second hand one isn't any good and finally, both pre and post 1992 cars use the same headlight bodies, only the trim at the front and the actual glass are different, so that gives you even more options second hand especially as early lights complete can be cheaper to pick up

I've an old sheet of plastic to put over the screen to keep the frost off :| and some jump leads in the boot, that's all I need to do, surely? Oh, and this is the car care forum and not the suppliers forum :wink:

lift an arm up (wiper arm :) ) look under the arm at the base piece that is bolted to the spindle where the spring connects, either side you will see a little ledge moulded into the casting of the arm base when the arm is in the down position the long part of the arm rests on those ledges you can test where it sits by removing the wiper and carefully lowering the arm to the screen you'll see the arm stops short of the screen by a couple of cm by filing off a bit of the ledge the arm will sit closer to the screen and press shallow wiper blades to the screen at all positions along the wiper sweep

yep. 280mm calipers are basically the same as 256mm ones, just slightly wider jaws and spaced out a bit more by the carriers, there are possibly some variations in calipers over all the years VW used 256 and 280 discs but corrado ones should be the same

:lol: just keep out of the concours threads Kev, we know it's not your thing :) it's not my thing either really but I can see how you can get drawn into it and I do love looking over the concours cars at shows even if it's mainly to work out what clips and bits are missing from my engine bays. the part reconditioning info is a good read in here too

take the trims out, fill the gutter with clear silicon sealant and push the trims back in :)

the aero style blades still rely on metal inserts to keep the blade flat and even pressure, take the wiper off the arm, press it again a flat surface, rear screen for example, as you press does the blade make even/symetrical contact from the edges to the centre as you push down from just the edges touching to the whole blade pressed flat? After recently aquiring a second Corrado I've realised that the original corrado arms are not to blame (I've read this many times before too), in their wisdom, VW made the front arms with shoulders at the hinge to prevent an arm snapping back to the screen without a blade in from breaking the screen, this works fine as long as you use a conventional blade with a fairly high profile (from rubber blade to fixing), problem is most new blades are fairly shallow and so at various positions in the arm sweep of the screen the arm sits on the shoulders of the pivot and can't get close enough to the screen, file down those shoulders a couple of mm and the blades work perfectly.

with the right hoses :) you jsut need the appropriate hoses, check the length and fitment you need for the new calipers in position them pop down to a GSF/ECP counter and jsut get the appropriate ones.

good headwork on the 16v isn't cheap, there was a chap on Club GTI doing them for around 3-400 quid but with a full rebuild of the head, possibly some new valves/guides and 16 hydraulic lifters it can stack up. IMO it's worth doing properly so flowing/polishing etc without removing guides and not replacing the lifters etc wouldn't give you the best results

stuff that is an issue when hot is usually something like the starter or solenoid as they're electromagnets and weaker when hot, but as you've done those... :scratch: have you checked the timing, just to make sure, if it's been over advanced it will be a bugger to start, not sure if that would be more of a struggle when hot though alternator output seems OK, perhaps try a heavy discharge tester on the battery when the car is hot

Don't think it will sort out...... If the belt was out as said, the previous owner/garage could have adjusted it to pick up the idle. ... ... wicked, will get onto that next week, think my dad's snap-on computer should do all those functions :salute:

[strike:1si6wbpc]I'd love to know where the idle control/bleed is, got a feeling the digifant on this engine controls idle itself?[/strike:1si6wbpc] see below :)

may well of been like that since the previous owner (or two) last had the cambelt changed :roll: having only had the 16v before I didn't think about checking the position of the intermediate pulley, but now you say that I guess that is the most likely thing that happened, you'd have thought :clap: :help: the owner would have noticed how bad it drove afer the belt change though :shrug:

well just about sorted, was having more and more trouble starting, thinking the battery was on it's way out (it is probably getting tired too) the other night I tried to check the timing, as I said above, today I took it to the garage to check the emissions and lambda. Lambda is spot on (new sensor) but the emissions was all over the place and just leaping too high to meet MOT reqts. Finally freed off the dizzy and timed it up. Blow me the dizzy was about 15 degrees too far advanced at idle! Can't believe it's been driving as well as it has, ECU must have been having kittens, no wonder there was a knock sensor error recorded! Set the timing right and drove it home, gave nearly 45mpg on the 10 mile trip back and that was in -3 degrees! Runs so much better now and with much smoother pulling away. It idles a little high now and there's no manual adjustment, but that might sort itself out when the ECU resets itself? Pleased I sussed it in the end, quite how it got so far out is anyones guess and it was like that so long the dizzy was siezed in that position :roll: just feel a bit daft I didn't check that as soon as I got the car!

don't know much about car audio but you'd need a 5 way amp (2 front 2 rear and one sub channel) for a single subwoofer driver, so no, you couldn't run that from a 4 way amp. I'd imagine a 4 way and a separate amp for a single (bridged output) or 2 way, sub is what you'd need.

VW seam sealer is similar but much thicker, comes on a shultz gun can rather than the tins the sprayable stuff does, it's what I used for over the join to the body when fitting a new wing, more silicon sealer/caulk type consistency :)

I'd remove damaged underseal, remove the rust underneath in just the corrosion affected places, warm the area for a while to extract moisture from the metal, prime with an etch primer and then paint or spray on the rubberised underseal from VW, it's very resilient to stones when cured and just spraying stuf everywhere underneath simply masks problems, traps moisture and allows problems to travel underneath. Plus the VW stuff can be painted over to further protect it. Parts like subframes and rear beams and brackets can be blasted, treated with POR-15 or similar, or powder coated or even Hammerited. Depends on how far you want to go removing parts or treating in-situ.

Do you really believe this ? ... And - I was waiting for David to have some smart a%ed answer - and you spoilt it !!!! :) it's simple -ish, 1) half the garage is full of Corrado parts, 2 wings, 2 bumpers, 3 doors, starters, alternators, crank, grilles, steering rack, exhaust, 2 sets of seats, 3 sets of door cards, 2 old washing machines, lawn mower, tools, bikes, random bits of wood that might come in useful one day, 90% used tins of paint etc... 2) the other side has my black 16v in it now for the winter :) and lastly... wot kev said :)

de-icer - genius :lol: if I get caught away from home on a frosty night I suppose I could piss on the handle :)

ooooh shiny! I can see you getting requests :) how much did the plating chemicals cost out of interest?

you must have lubed them up well then when you re-tumbled the locks :) my 8v was treated worse than a skip by the previous owner, hardly surprising the locks haven't been cleaned and greased since it was made I guess

Ah, so I might try the PTFE spray I've got in the garage tonight, works wonders on seat runners too, no more grease collecting dirt :) 63929.jpg[/attachment:2vc3z5j6]£2.64 from Toolstation :)

I used that this morning to get me in, but doesn't it wash the grease off the barrel tumblers etc?

a 92 car should have the late style rack (22 spline input shaft from steering column universal joint) 192422061K although looking at your chassis number it may well be the early (golf 2 16v) rack with the 36 spline input 192422061P track rods should simply be mk2 golf (PAS) ones, no difference from year to year on corrado 191422803A left 191422804A right (assuming it was a 185 or 195 width tyre from factory) track rod ends are just standard mk2 golf.

any ideas?, the old style handles on my valver were always fine but the 8v has the later handles (raised bit around lock) but they freeze every morning. should I just take it all apart and grease thoroughly?