davidwort

same module AFAIK should both be part number 357 957 033 AC (kilometres)

yep, sounds good.

early mk3 golf VR calipers, just make sure you don't end up with ATE 288's (1994 on?) actually mk2 2L 8v GTI and 2.0 16v (ABF) golfs have the same 280's (early ones again.)

From all the cars I've driven, my 1.8 16v with non-abs 256mm brakes has the best feel, bite and progressive braking. The front disks are relatively cheap brembo disks and Pagid pads, the calipers are all in good condition, only the rears have actually been replaced, pressure bleeding made a good difference. Non ABS cars always seem to have better feel to me, so a non ABS 16v should be good. If you do want to fit 280's to the front then all you need is the correct carriers and preferably the G60/VR calipers too, you can use the 16v calipers but they aren't wide enough to fit the slightly thicker G60 pads without sanding them down a couple of mm as the pads and disks on the 280's are slightly thicker. Check the hose fittings but I think standard G60/VR hoses will do on the front, the hoses did change in length at some point in production, possibly due to a caliper revision on the 280's?

standard 16v brakes are 356mm vented discs, don't bother upgrading rears, the fronts do most of the work. front brakes changed to 280mm disks use basically the same caliper (just slightly wider) and will be a bit more resistant to fade but pad choice is more important as the pads are the saem size but marginally thicker on the VR and G60. early mk3 golf vr6 calipers are 280mm but later cars use 288's which have better, bigger (ATE) calipers anbd pads but disks are not available in 4 stud as said above. I'd seriously consider new 256mm standardf fronts but using quality disks and pads and renewing calipers etc where required, with the right pads you can improve feel and bite and make the brakes feel a lot better, G60 280's won't improve this aspect of the brakes, as I said above they just provide slightly better heat dissipation for extended and repeated braking, it all depends on what is most important to you.

bargain price considering ropey calendars are available from your high street shopping centres (with dogs, cats etc on them) for best part of a tenner!

or our very own WIKI ! http://the-corrado.wik.is/Categories/In ... eplacement does the fan run with 12v directly to it's connectors? (couple of bits of wire straight to your battery) if not, then you need to trace the main fuseboard fuse for the blower fan and the feeds in/out of your fan speed control switch

I'd say go for the late wings first, and perhaps do a trial fit of one of them onto an early bonnet car, g60's had both early and late wings and late wings are on more cars and offer slightly better wheel clearance. It may be that the bonnet side line is near enough for a pair of carbon late wings to fit an early car fine.

the flare on the arch on the late wings is about 10mm more, difficult to see unless you have them side by side, more important though is the re-profile of the wing/bonnet joining line, they are different and early and late mixes will not give an even panel gap, the curve is different. They will fit but to those 'in-the-know' they look wrong.

here's a pic of a KR and 6A (converted to equivalent of a 9A) blue block is the KR one. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfcombined_6A_KR_engine_blocks.jpg[/attachment:1ujuk27d] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf116-1617_IMG.JPG[/attachment:1ujuk27d] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf116-1624_IMG.JPG[/attachment:1ujuk27d] 115-1587_IMG.JPG[/attachment:1ujuk27d]

painting discs - - just buy Pagid discs, they come with a painted coating which the pads wear off as required when new, quite common on a number of brands of disc now.

I personally wouldn't fit anything other than standard mounts on a valver, anything else seems to transmit a lot of noise and vibration even if it's just an uprated front mount (which is the one that gets the most strain on it)

back to your actual question :) I think you're right, the mk2 golf style Corrado front subframe is pretty good, but if you have a very high power car it must add some rigidity, braces are usually added to high performance models of cars where engine output exceeds the original chassis design requirements or to add strength that the basic body/subframe pressings can't be pressed to achieve. The mk2 chassis is much better than the mk1 chassis, for instance VW had to fit a bottom brace to the 16v rocco where the engine output was nearly 3 times what the mk1 golf was designed for :lol: For a modest power increase on the Corrado I reckon TT/R32 bushes on the wishbones are all you need really.

truth is I don't know yet, I have a pair I'm planning on trying in my gasflowed head, but the KR cams are designed for the short block (KR/9A) engine and the ABF engine has a number of changes and variations to the early 16v engines, not least a totally different, fully electronic injection system and I'd imagine the cam profiles were designed to be optimised for those features. My guess is that the extra lift of an ABF inlet cam may make the KR/9A engine a little more peaky but may rob some low end. But to be fair there are a fair few complete ABF engines running on K-jet (particuarly in mk2 golfs) and they develop pretty good power even without flowed heads. I guess the big question is how the ABF head is matched to the ABF cams and whether a KR/9A head casting and valvetrain interacts less than perfectly with those cam profiles :shrug: Once I've finished refitting my bathroom I'll try it and tell you for sure :lol:

:shock: :salute: the most complex thing I've done is make a cup of coffee :)

usually front wishbone bolts isn't it? is there an alternative?

nice how-to though, very similar to the old 4 cylinder bosch ones really, I guess an alternator is an alternator :) I like the bearing heater 8) In my usual bodging approach I've simply sanded down worn/grooved contact/slip rings before, the bearings can be done with small pullers, but like you say it's a darn site easier to pay a starter/alternator repair place to do it, the biggest issue I've come across is the rectifier diode plates are soldered to the windings on the bosch ones, well it looks more like brazing!

must be some other damage then, it's pretty high pressure compared to most fuel systems but the unions should only need nipping up to seal fine.

I've only ever seen mk2 switches that don't have the illumination that the corrado ones do, a pin or two less on the back of the unit, rest of the pins are the correct configuration though.

Should use the original Corrado pulley, the larger alternator should just have bigger windings and a bit harder for the engine to drive when you really need that extra current. Only reason I've seen different sized pulleys is for engines with a different diameter crank pulley (to keep ratio the same) or on a higher/lower revving engine.

they can be copper, or soft alloy and sometimes have a rubber insert/edge on the inside, as long as it doesn't leak it'll be fine :) all these washers/seals should strictly speaking be renewed when removed, but like sump plug washers, in reality they can be re-crushed and get away with it. Re-used mine when I did the KR fuel filter.

well in the end the stub axles were fine, I reckon I've just been too gentle with the bearings in the past, this time they got a good tighten up to seat them on the stub axles and I've now got next to no play at all... which is nice :) washers are still moveable and discs spin freely. Bit of a result with the discs, ordered 2 pagid discs and sets of pads from ECP, discs non ABS ones by mistake, they are identical to the ABS ones but just minus the ABS rings. pop the old rings off the old discs, pinch them together very very slightly to make a tight fit on the new disc and away. non ABS discs are half the price (trade) of the ABS ones and come with that special paint coating to stop them rusting too :clap: (the abs ones we ordered later to compare are bare steel and just oil coated which needs cleaning off) removing old abs rings, not tight at all, just that the puller was easiest way to pop them off. old ring pushed onto new disc

instant reaction to that list is that it'll take you a fair while to spend that grand you save over the 150tdi on fuel in the V6 and you'll probably win out on maintenance costs on the V6 too, so many people expect a diesel to be cheap to run but think again, especially on a 106/122k mile TDI. The 60K v6 should be a much tidier, less worn car generally too, and you should barely hear it running until you floor it of course :)

if your driveshaft is rusty and/or the paint damaged a new one won't stick in place properly anyway, they have to be fitted at a very specific position but it doesn't seem to cause a problem if you run without one, so as above, just ditch it :)

I take it you mean non PAS rack (yes will fit) , and not a non-adjustable steering column? (column may be a diff length to corrado one)