davidwort

thanks for that too, I did check the vac pipes a month or so back when I did a lot of work on the car, clutch, suspesion stuff, but I'll check everything you mentioned when I can get to my dad's place and use the fuel pressure gauge, ta muchly :)

passat or seat ones can be used to repair a corrado one, although the passat ones work slightly differently, speed settings are one position out if you just use the passat part as a whole direct swap.

any info would be cool :) I think the 2E engine is a bit more basic than the ADY, but similar if you know what I mean I spent ages when I got home trying to check the timing the mark on the crank pulley looked too far advanced at idle, even setting my gun to zero I couldn't get the mark back far enough so I stopped the engine, turned it by hand to line up marks on pulley and timing cover, then looked at flywheel mark, that lined up spot on with the gearbox casing mark so I marked them white tried running engine again, but no luck seeing mark on flywheel :scratch: tried slackening dizzy but even with the clamp off I couldn't budge the bloody thing, gave up as I got too cold :mad2: when I get the chance I will see if I can budge it and get a reading on the marks, very odd. not done leakdown test but it's not seeming to use any oil

thanks again, another little job to eliminate another possibility :) at least I've got an old adjustable advance timing gun, it's been very handy when tweaking the 16v on super unleaded :)

cheers, I've had the inlet to bits and cleaned everything including throttle body, did that a while ago, seemed to improve things a bit, sure I checked all the vac hoses thoroughly. will keep an eye on the oil consumption, hopefully get it on the gas analyser next week and check the lambda value, it was wavering about on the old sensor although still in spec just about, from the marks on the old one it's genuine VAG but a 1997 replacement if I deciphered the readable info left on it OK. it really bogs down and vibrates like a juddering clutch when pulling away, but it cruises very smoothly, whipped the plugs out and cleaned in carb cleaner last night, started fine after that so I'll check them again, first time I've looked at them on the new lambda. I need to check the advance too at some point, not sure of procedure on a catalysed 2E 8v though, assume it should be hot with water temp sensor plug removed like 1.8 8v?

that's cheaper than the one I bought in 1996 :lol:

bit of a noob when it comes to digifant 2L 8v (2E engine) on digifant, cat and single lambda, 1 knock sensor. I've checked leads, plugs, rotor arm, cap etc, all seem OK and fairly new, fitted a new bosch lambda and it's still running rich I think. haven't had it back on the MOT gas analyser yet, but after a good run the plugs are fouling up, oily black, all four the same, good compression on all cylinders but the tailpipe is a bit black for a cat car and the fuel economy is wrose than my K-jet 2L 16v. I've even tried a spare temp sender, not new but the result is the same, wqarmns up fine, runs smooth on a cruise, but bogs down under load pulling away. Plug fouling is starting to cause starting issues. Any ideas anyone :scratch:

In truth, it's pants, I prefer the valver any day, that starts fine and there's no cat or bollards like that to worry about :)

wow! I didn't think the paint had any problem with it when I saw the car a while ago :shock:

Oh, now I see why you talked about welding :? that's going to be a bit of a job then, and a rear quarter re-spray, whatever you do if possible get it protected as best you can to try to slow the damage if you are using the car this winter.

wing is just bolted in, front bumper needs sliding out, arch liner removed and then there's some underseal inside down the joint to the leading edge of the door that needs to be trimmed from around one bolt head and cut down the line of the old wing and then it just lifts out. I'd imagine you should be able to find someone to do a single wing properly for about 150 quid, not sure how easy your colour is to match perfectly though, shouldn't be too bad as it's not a badly fading VW colour is it?

worst quality picture of the month goes to... DSC00683.JPG[/attachment:2sn079mh] been meaning to get this fixed for ages, the join between the sill and the rear arch had rusted through on one side on the valver, dad did a very neat job of welding in a patch whilst I put out the melting flaming underseal :lol: the drive home was a bit smoky smelling, nothing between the bottom of the sill and the inside of the car if you look inside the rear passenger trim panel and the sound insulation I put in there got a bit singed too :) should be good for a while now anyway. New drivers side fog and lambda fitted to the 8v and now i really can't feel my fingers! next job, new bog to fit in the en-suite - have to do this to earn now you can do some Corrado fixing - points from Jen :) (only joking - I know you're reading the forum :lol: )

after all that it refused to fire this morning, turns over fine and the injectors are rattling away, think I''ve got electrical gremlins in the ignition side :roll: was looking forward to seeing how it ran with a new lambda too :mad2:

they have the hose connection in a different position IIRC and so need a different length hose, otherwise the are very similar, just with a further improved handbrake release mech and they are an alloy instead of cast iron.

yuck, that wing is shot, anything can be repaired of course, but for the cost a good second hand wing painted is going to be a better bet.

you sure it's not a caliper release meachanism problem Jim? you should be able to force the mechanism back at the caliper if it is just getting stiff, when I had rear calipers go the handbrake went floppy, unless the cable actually breaks I can't see really needing to replace one, in any case if it did snap and the caliper was still binding it would def be the caliper. A temporary handbrake cable freeze should be possible to free off pretty easily, the end rubber boot on the handbrake cable splits and a little water could get in there I guess, but I can't see it binding the brakes on for long.

I've finally lost it, went out to the garage at 7pm to change the lambda sensor on the 8v :cuckoo: my indoor/outdoor thermometer is showing -3 and the ice on the car barely started melting after I pushed the car in the garage and switched the little fan heater on for an hour :lol: Astonishingly the lambda sensor came out without too much trouble but the connector to the loom and it's little mounting bracket squeezed down the back of the engine was a real :bad-words: I think I'll get a hot bath now, things we do to keep driving our beloved Corrados :lol:

lock removal info, it's in the fixed steering column stickied thread, you drill a 3mm hole so you can push the retaining spring on the side of the barrel down to release.

:shock: seen it happen on a crappy old polo with a siezed bonnet catch but never heard of it on a Corrado, I've driven at over 100 and then noticed the bonnet jiggling on it's safety catch, really surprised yours let go.

I can lock the brakes on my 256's if I press hard enough, but the 280's should be fine, that can always be altered by pad selection but I've never heard of it being a problem.

shouldn't be a problem, calipers are basically the same 256/280

don't want to hijack, but I don't think I ever found an explanation of why copper or cupro-nickel pipe is a problem (and it's so much easier to shape and correct if needs be.), I've always made replacements out of this :shrug:

no Steve, he took another cheap brand one out (the original replacement) and replaced it with an LUK one to fix the problem :)

I think most of these sorts of things are for humidity control and dust protection inside a building (there are other types too, using a tubular frame instead) , you might just be better off with a decent quality car cover like the 50-60 quid jobs from halfords.

if the dampers are designed to run on shorter springs (eg koni's - which often specify and operating range) then all will be fine, but aside from the issue of spring and damper rates not matching, the main issue you will have is that a damper designed for a normal ride height will be operating at the end of it's travel, this affects it's operation and lifespan, don't be surprised if the dampers start to leak in no time. As a rough guide to ride height the gap between arch and a 15" tyre and the angle of the front wishbones is a good guide. Early cars seemed to have slightly shorter springs and sit lower (G60's and 1.8 16v's) my 94 8v sits with about 70mm between tyre top and arch front and rear, the 16v on eibach springs (supposedly 40mm drop) has about half that. 8v wishbones point very much down, 16v's are about dead level.