davidwort

nice motors the V6 4 motions, underrated in lots of ways IMO trouble is they weigh as much as a Corrado VR6... ... ... ... towing a polo :lol:

after changing my 8v pump (for a mk3 VR one :) ) I can see why it's a really bad idea to have much less than 1/4 of a tank in the car all the time, the 8v/VR pumps are a fair size and rely on the fuel for cooling, the interesting thing is the variation in pumps and senders means that you can mix and match pump bodies, top covers/connectors and level sensors across a wide range of VW's, and mk3's had the smaller 12 gallon tank don't forget. I was lazy and my 8v has a golf VR pump with the float arm bent into the right position for the corrado tank :lol: works fine though Corrado 8v VDO pump

whatever next, checking the oil level and tyre pressures? :)

well I guess if that 58% front weight bias figure for the VR6 is correct then it's hardly surprising the 4cyl corrados feel so balanced to drive, the VR is some 100Kg heavier than a 4cyl C around that 8% over 50/50 could the 4cyl Corrado really be 50/50 weight distribution :shock: the VR engine and ancilliaries is further forward in the engine bay then there's a bit of extra weight from the plus axle gear too I'd think, not to mention a bigger radiator. At the back there's little difference betwen the models.

x2 I'm also going to try and get hold of the bearing greaser Stealth use. You pop the bearing onto a plastic holder, then pump it into the pot of grease a few times. This really pumps the bearing full of grease prior to assembly, meaning you don't have to cram so much into the cavities and rely on centrifugal dispersion etc etc.... I find just turning the bearing on my finger with grease liberally dolloped onto it works it in OK, as you suggest, filling the dome cap with grease is pointless as the grease won't make it from there onto the bearing, it wants to go in the opposite direction :) I'd not really thought about the fitting of the bearing onto the stub axle, it's obviously got to be fairly tight to push the bearing on snugly, in my head I'd only been thinking about squeezing out the excess grease to get a close fit of the bearings in their races, but nipping it up and slackening (as I do anyway) obviously helps to make sure the bearings themselves are seated properly on the axle, I've always been a bit worried about over-doing the initial tightening/seating and damaging the bearing, but from what you chaps say I don't think that's an issue unless I use the breaker bar :) although the bearings I've just taken off are visually in good nick and don't roar when spun I think they must have play in them, but of course like a lot of components it's only when they are fully loaded up that the play can be evident, in this case the extra leverage you have on the hub when the wheel is bolted back up.

I most certainly do have a micrometer, should have thought of that, failed on the brake discs, picked them up from my dad's and they are non-abs ones :roll: so will try the new discs on tomorrow. Odd thing with the discs is, the abs rings popped off the old ones with a very gentle lift from a little 3 leg puller, and they fit on the non-abs brembo disks just fine, it's just they aren't a tight fit to stop them spinning :shrug: otherwise there's no difference between the abs and non-abs ones :confused4: all this abs stuff is new to me :)

odd those bolts, the front nearside bumper mounting bolt seems to act as a little trap for water, on both of my rusty cars water dripped out when I removed them, bit of a problem area.

ah! miss-read your original post, should of realised when you said 4 rubber mounts, I wouldn't advise replacing the front subframe bushes with tap washers though :lol:

171 121 276D should do the job, that's for a mk2 1.3 litre engine, but the slam panels, rads and fixings are all basically the same over all the engines, or you could just find a thick rubber plumbing type washer from B&Q etc. :)

wishbone bushes shot?

so what do you reckon? got new disks and bearings coming today, will see if I can get a better fit with brand new parts.

TBH doing the job a second time it wasn't really that difficult, I think you'd struggle to get ties on over the column (not sure how snug the spring is over the end of the column), you'd have access to the spring once installed, but I don't think it's really worth faffing about, it should go on fine without and on your own :)

Ah, OK then. touch of the insomnia, here's a few pics of the nearside rear axle: difficult to see because of the reflections, but the top of the axle is smooth and polished, the leading edge is discoloured (but seems smooth), this is where the outer bearing sits and a couple of cool pumpkins we did for Sunday night :lol:

cheers, will do :salute: I'll have a look at the mk4 to see what the axles are like, got to do the rear shocks on that this week anyway :roll: I know the bearings are totally different, more like the fronts IIRC.

I've tried every way that people have suggested, yourself, Kev etc., I usually nip them up and back off a couple of times to make sure they are seated, and I always run grease into them by hand before assembly. It just struck me that there appears to be a bit more play vertically than horizontally (it's not the shock/spring moving) and that would tally with the direction in which most of the forces are applied to the hub - well that was my thought anyway. Perhaps I will have them off the 16v and run a dial gauge on them, think I can find someone with a lathe to mount them on somewhere, well, once I've re-done the shower etc., after spending the last 3 months on the 8v I've promised Jen I'll do something on the house :)

Both of my cars seem to alway have some play in the rear bearings, a bit more than I'm happy with as normal, irrespective of bearing supplier, I'm now thinking that perhaps the stub axles are past their best, particularly as there seems to be more play vertically (with the wheel bolts back on) than horizontally. Is there a way to check the stub axles? AFAIK neither car has had bearing failure on the back ever, in fact my bearings only really get replaced when I change disks and the old ones are usually pecfectly servicable (no point in attempting to remove and fit to a new disk obviously). Any advice, comments etc? Are new, pattern stub axles OK?

or while the gearbox is in :) it's only 2 bolts on the top of the box.

TBH the top one seems well over guess-timated, yours is about right, but the important thing is the power at the wheels, if you've got around 130-140bhp then I'd say it's fine as a standard car is about 110. You can't expect a lot more than 20-30bhp from a head and slightly higher lift cams. Full plots would be useful, as would running the car on the same day on the same rollers against a car with similar wheels and tyres and the same tyre pressures. The 6A is identical to the 9A BTW, only has a different code as it comes with a different sump and oil pickup pipe :) How does it go on the road?, you need to take rolling road results with a hefty pinch of salt - just pub/forum boasting numbers really :)

Euro car parts do a 230mm sachs clutch kit fairly cheap for all 4 cylinder Corrados, got one a few weeks ago, although it's listed as 230mm it's a replacement for all 228mm clutches found on 1.8 and 2.0L boxes. VW do specify slightly different part numbers for some of the 4cyl engines, but a generic 228mm clutch kit will do fine, just avoid the very cheapest brands on the market and try to get an LUK or sachs one as they are nearest to OEM.

yuck! surely that's not an original wing, never seen a factory one go like that unless it's been bent, filled and resprayed.

1H0 498 020A yep that part is a 'set of seals for ZF power steering 16v,VR6 (well those cars with a ZF rack obviously) and... 1H0 498 020 set of seals for TRW (I believe Boost Monkey bought one of these sets of seals from VW last year?) AOF 063 000 04 - 250g steering grease :) (that's an alphabetic 'O' not a zero in AOF)

it's not too difficult to do some basic tests yourself, see my injector flow and pattern test thread below: here that would pick up any fuel delivery problem to one cylinder. if it really was oil in the cylinder then you have a more serious head/block related issue, has it had a compression test?

What a familiar story :lol: good job though and drop me a pm if you want a bit of 8v repair chat :) Mine's getting there, should be taxed next month as I've done just about everything needed now, just sidetracked by doing things and spending money it doesn't really need :) ... it's impossible not to do on a C though and I have a very understanding Mrs :notworthy:

best thing to do is go down to a store and get them to dig the part out, valeo label=good, chinese writing=bad :(

does sound more like voltage control than diodes gone down, this looks OK for the money on e-bay plenty of second hand ones, some from sharans etc, on e-bay cheap too.