davidwort

yes, there is a difference, if you have a 1.8 with the later single waterpump pulley then you need the same pump as the 2L 16v, if it's a 1990 it will most likely be the earlier type pulley setup (extra idler pulley on waterpump) the difference is the hub spacing on the pas pump, that is the spacing from pump body to pulley, make sure you get the same as you have on the car.

If the alternator is causing a problem, then you might find it's slightly warm when you come to it in the morning with the engine stone cold, that would suggest a current drain through it. Disconnect it and see if the drain still exists too.

with the meter connected, start pulling fuses, should be able to narrow down the circuit pretty quickly, have you got extra aftermarket connections direct to the battery? I forgot to disconnect my meter (in-line in current mode) and operated the central locking, took a couple of goes before I popped the internal fuse in the multimeter :lol: amazed it coped that well!

should seal fine with the washer, I've had pattern rads that need help from a bit of PTFE tape on the threads but not on OEM rads.

yeah, but it does absorb a lot of noise, especially the OEM foam with the 'holes' in it to aborb certain frequencys.

K-jet pump is well up for the job IIRC, Blue95 is runnning one for a BAM 1.8T in his old 2L 16v shell

DG do laser cut brackets for slimline fans on the 16v rad :)

well, that's the odd thing, although most headbolts are stretch bolts these days (like the VW ones) there's plenty of cars that the manufacturer specifies re-torquing after a few miles, does make me wonder if even the stretch bolts might benefit from this. Then there's the other issue of few people having regularly and properly calibrated torque wrenches anyway.

I'd imagine it's wear on the re-centering part of the lever, had a similar problem on the wiper arm. You might be able to repair it, I did on the other arm, by filing a bit of the plastic so it doesn't make contact on one of the metal tabs that complete the circuits. Tell tale sign is if the arm is a bit 'floppy' in the centred position.

I'd fit the UJ to the rack and then fit the combination to the car, connect UJ to bottom of column once it's all in.

to do the job you need a complete elec window loom and control box from another C, or use just the front wiring from a passat, same system, just the control box has two more outputs and switch inputs.

^ www.vwspares.co.uk :lol:

I think you have the dealer fitted switches and regulators that are NOt the same as the factory fit early ones. The problem is you don't have the right loom, the dealer fit windows are permanently live and don't run to a control box, so they have an extra 'live' feed to them as they switch power up/power down separately unlike the wiring to the factory fit ones. AFAIK the early and late factory system is basically the same (i.e. same control, box and wiring), so the cards and switches can be swapped using the same loom, it's only the dealer fit ones that are the problem :(

just in case anyone is interested, the RHS seat base bolster, for the usual saggy, worn-to-the-metal support bar issue, is still available from VW, £31 +VAT and on 2 day delivery, same part for all standard Corrado front seats (non-recaro) obviously a part plenty of people keep asking for :)

don't know, but I had a samco go on the 16v, tight bend small hose, but it was definitely a manufacturing fault, pretty sh1t quality TBH, but they'd been on the car for yonks.

now you're hoping... :) saw toads video on youtube though, looked really good and that was lower than the original resolution.

VW ones are 1.2W I think, have a look at the one in the ciggy lighter holder, should be printed on the old ones.

Corrado subframe has long 'tails' fixed underneath the car, to give it more rigidity than a mk2, extra bolts further back. Quite different looking side by side with a mk2 one. Have a look at BoostMonkey's gallery/build thread IIRC for pictures. Corrado subframes should all have the little 'horse-shoe' locating pieces welded into the subframe for locating the centre of the rear wishbone bushes(certainly my 1990 1.8 16v does and I know the later cars do), mk2 has a sleeve inside the bush instead.

factory fit window switches run to the window control unit so don't need to be 12v as don't feed the motors directly, I assume the updated roof electrics are similar, whereas the early roofs are a direct power switch to the motor with no auto features.

the small front bushing on the wishbones rarely wears much as it's the rear one that takes all of the torque on acceleration and braking, something definitely wrong, but then you did admit you bought it from GSF :(

there's quite a few variations of K-jet injector, the Golf/Corrado 16v ones have the top hat heat shields, but the same injector part no is listed for A80/100/coupe (from 1981) passat GL5 and early mk2 8v's on K-jet (1983-85) mk1 injector appears to be different as are the brass mercedes ones (on e-bay), even though people seem to have run them OK (on Club GTI forum)

thinking about a set myself (mine are on 165K), if you can wait, I'll get my dad to enquire with all the parts factors they use, get them bidding against each other hopefully :) should be able to better that.

Bosch Injector part# 431440160 ...according to Euro car parts anyway :)

I've changed these bulbs a few times too, from what I remember you just need a standard capless dash illumination bulb (probably available from VW, my mk 4 golf uses the same ones in the heater panel) and preferably one with fairly long wire 'legs' to reach the connector pins they need to be soldered too. Fiddly job, but quite easy really, you don't need to be expert at soldering :) In fact I think I used a bulb from an old dash fog switch I had lying around, that happened to have long wire legs on, off an old audi, but VW ones are much the same.

inline radio fuse holder should do the job, from halfords or anywhere, just make sure you have the right rated fuse so it pops first before anything gets hot!