davidwort

I know for a fact that all 4 cylinder VW engines from this era benefit from a well designed 4 branch, some engines benefit more than others though. 8V GTI's can see up to 10hp when combined with big valve ported heads and the right cams. The 16v doesn't benefit as much as the 8v engines do as it's cast iron manifold is better than the 8v ones to start with. By internally polishing the standard 16v cast iron manifold you'll get pretty good results and keep standard parts, TSR used to do this but it's less of a money spinner than 4 branches. It's unlikely that you'll see much difference from this on all but the most highly tuned 16v engines, by that I mean flowed heads, high lift cams and engines built to rev well over the 7,200 rpm (the KR red-line) You might get say a small improvement in peak power on a 16v with a 4 branch, but you'll get some with a ported OEM one too and not loose any torque, so hp per £ it's never stacked up for me, far better things on the car to spend 300-500 quid on.

I'm not surprised, X19 panels would only last one winter in Northern Europe anyway :lol:

I wouldn't try it in the winter, damp and cold will be a big problem, but you can cut rattle can paint back to make the finish nice, it's just the colour match that is a problem.

can't imagine a decent place would want to do anything other than whole panels, and you won't get much change out of 100 quid a panel, once you start looking at that many parts of the car then a full respray won't cost much more, it all depends on the quality of the job. I'd get several quotes from people that have actually had a look at the car. I had a quote recently for a full prep, respray and laquer sorting out al lthe dings and rust and it was basically 2 grand, on the other hand I had a reasonable (2 pack, no laquer) job done on a tailgate and front wing (off the car) for 250.

ah, I see, I've always wondered why the 1.8 and 2L 16v engines had different filters, I've used both on mine with no ill effects and that explains why. I guess the G60 filter on a 16v would be overkill and just more expensive.

only because it's short surely? I've never quite understood why all the 1.6-2L VW engines 2E, KR, 9A, PB, PG etc... all have different filters, the blocks are all basically the same, I guess the 16v and engines with piston squirters have slightly higher capacity pumps but why you need a slightly different filter other than space to fit it... :shrug:

:shock: Not disputing this at all - but what the hell stops them getting blown out then? How tight a fit are they? if anything they get sucked in :lol: unless you really have a problem, your inlet valves should be shut when the piston comes up, so nothing's going to be pushing those injectors out, often what happens when the seals get old and hard is they leak air in and make the engine run lean/cause idle problems

9a should have a securing clip on each injector, remove these first and then pull the injector, or prise using the hex of the union for leverage on a warm engine and they should pop out. The inserts can be removed with a large allen socket, something big like 13mm cant remember exactly.

suspension top mounts, track rods and ends, steering column if you have a 100K plus adjustable one at present.

I've found a couple of G-clamps are dead handy in holding down the inner arb bush clamps while you get the nut to bite on the bolt thread.

nope, you just need to do that to get the bubbles out. sounds like you've got the dreaded sticking valve in the pump body, it's worth just taking out , visually checking the tiny gauze filter and popping back in, I've had them stick like that then just start behaving themselves again and never causing a problem again. Worth checking the drilling in the pump body the valve sits in is smooth and not scored in any way.

you need about 60/40 distilled water/coolant, so that's about right for a VR cooling system.

well it has got a nearly new cambelt :lol:

well it's listed on ETKA so it might have been an option on UK cars

passenger side is 535 807 193, I'd imagine the driver side is something like 535 807 192, haven't checked that one though.

no, use ordinary bearing grease for rear wheel bearings, was only about a fiver for a tub, even from Halfords.

just go to VW, this question crops up about once a week and basically genuine VW filters are about the cheapest every time someone checks prices.

from Mr Yandards:

you see the pic above where the indicator wiring is coming down from the inner wing, well the temp sensor wire is the black sheathed cable to the left of my hand, I think it comes out of a hole a bit further back from the indicator/fog wiring, and presumably it's slightly different on post 92 cars without the brake ducts.

ah right, actually I found a torx head screw amongst my random bits and bobs with the same thread and depth and the washer built in, it's a mk4 golf fixing so I might order a bunch of those, not sure they would last the 20 years the original corrado bolts did though, they've done incredibly well considering they sit in the wheel arch!

well I've read countless accounts on how to remove the front bumper but never seen any pics of it (I'm sure there are some somewhere), so thought I'd take a few pics as I did the job. Main aim of this mission was to get plenty of underbody wax spray over the radiator support panel as it takes such a bashing from the road spray and dirt. This is all early 16v/G60 specific, as these cars have the brake cooling ducts two main 17mm bolts that need to come out either side of the front cross member, leave the middle small one and help support the engine either from above with an engine support or below with a jack ot stand: outside temp sensor, sits just inside the brake duct on the early cars arch liner bolts to remove, blue ones are for brake duct pulling bumper forward after gently prising the edge lip of the arch liner out of the way cover behind headlight, remove to get access to indicator/fog loom connector dropping down indicator loom from inner wing the front with the bumper off, grubby but not too rusty, it's had plenty of hammerite and wax in the past! one bust bumper side support to be replaced with a 99p e-bay bargain - which has sat in my garage for 5 years :lol: grubby but very solid back of the bumper, it's at least 16 years old, possibly replaced in a bump in the first 2 years of the car's life everything has had a clean, paint and wax spray now, should protect it for at least this winter, need to order a bunch of arch liner screws etc now have some more dull pics of removing the fogs and indicators but this isn't needed as the looms can be detatched in the engine bay and for putting things back together, the 17mm bolts (the front bumper ones) are 85Nm, the 13mm one for the radiator support panel only is 25Nm

nope, just removed, cleaned inside and out and with a mk3 cap on it, came up a treat though.

sounds like a respray to me,I can't believe they would not paint the arches first before inserting the plastic pegs and then the self tappers

tom tom or garmin and then decide what features you really need and how much you want spend. For me, 150 quid on a garmin with traffic info and europe maps has been spot on. But you could get basically the same unit but smaller screen, no europe and no traffic info for about 80 quid. Speed camera updates are a yearly fee though, think it's about 30 quid.

probably disturbing the earths helped, worth cleaning them up with some fine wet and dry and protecting with wax spray