davidwort

carbon bonnet, small battery, lose the subframe weight, rear wiper/motor, interior... there's a thread on here somewhere where someone's weighed all the stuff they've binned and the car afterwards, think I'd rather keep the interior and soundproofing myself.

if both gauges play up then it can be the voltage regulator on the dash PCB, which can be replaced, this is certainly the case on the older style dash, not sure about the later ones.

yep, but you need the late foglight assembly too.

you really need to check the fuel delivery rates and system pressure, I can give you some more detailed info of how to check things if you give me an e-mail address via pm.

gasket between cooler and bracket or bracket and block?

Assuming we're still talking about the rear WB bushes when you say MK4, I'd just like to add I've had my TT/R32/Man & his dog rear bushes in for over 2 years now and they've been faultless and they're still perfect. No sign of this 2 way flexing wear.... that was rear beam bushes IIRC

I really don't know, I've just got a new Exide battery with a 3 yr warranty for under 40 quid :shrug:

think it's the cable connector from an early style shift tower

I really don't think the storage of that optima battery before use or your usage is the problem, looks like you got a dud, whole point of those batteries is that you can store them without use and they don't deteriorate like a conventional lead acid. For instance I regularly leave my car for a week without use and in about 14 years on the same vehicle I've had two bosch silvers (65Ah, one replaced in two years by warranty) and a fcuk-off great Hella 75Ah that lasted about 4 years, in comparison the daily used Golf has it's original 9 year old 55Ah VW battery! My Corrado also has the sh1t dealer fitted elec windows which are live all the time! - even so I only get about 0.03 a drain with a radio, immobiliser, mfa and alarm all live. The current drain seems a little on the high side on your car, what do you get if the starter and alternator connections are removed?

it's a pig to get on them though, the track rods sometimes only have one flat to get the spanner on and there's not much room down there

it appears that the Golf G60 uses passat/mk3 golf parts (357 prefix) the corrado uses a corrado specific housing, I guess because of the lower seating position and higher relative position of the gearlever

The advantage of using a passat plate is you only need to raise the position of the bottom ball connector (for the shift cable) i.e. less complex welding needed. Also, you can keep your original corrado plate in case you don't like the result :)

yep, by modifying the relay plate of a passat at the bottom of the gearlever, 25-30% less throw will be had, a couple of people on here at some time or other have done it and I've got the part to mod, just lazy in getting round to it, I will post up all the pics and info when I eventually do it though :lol:

funny you should say that, it was on the rolling road at stealth for the forum day the other week, it's still putting down around 135bhp at the wheels (just under 170 crank) which is only 5 or 10 bhp off a number of the standard VR6's that ran :D I've got a bit of an abortion of an exhaust on it at the moment which I don't think is helping the top end and my injectors are well past their best before date, I'm sure there's a couple more ponies in there somewhere :lol:

you're much better off using a steam cleaner than a pressure washer and then respraying the engine bay with light protective wax afterwards, the oily grime might look aweful but it's a good protective film for the engine :)

vinegar or bio washing liquid, vinegar is way stronger than coke for cleaning, try it on a 2p piece compared to coke and you'll see what I mean I cleaned a header tank out totally with it once that had 15 years of crud built up in it, I've also used it for reviving scaled up taps, kettles and a 3 port central heating valve :) bio washing liquid will break down carbon deposits apparently, that was a tip from 'how clean is your house' :lol: using it on baking trays. I guess carb cleaner would be a good bet too.

no idea on current vw price but I think even VW rack are recon now, the important thing is the quality control of a VW supplied rack is probably better than the average recon supplier, if you can afford what VW are asking (whatever that is) I'm sure theirs will be a better bet.

a recon rack may or may not solve the problem, the racks don't usually wear much and so recon ones often use bits that are within tolerance but not new, on a performance car like the C that gets driven hard a recon rack may not be as tight as you are looking for.

ah, so the OEM plastic connector serves two purposes, the actual clamp for the cable and a pivot piece for the top of the tower, come to think of it the pre 92 tower doesn't use that type of pivot, it has a solid metal pin IIRC like steves/gruvenparts mod.

I think you'll find the 8v C has the same rack as the 16v golf (and 16v/G60 corrado), the 8v golf rack will fit and is basically identical (apart from the input shaft which would need a pre 1992 corrado UJ to match the number of splines) but you'll probably find the 8v GTI rack is slightly slower than the Corrado one, slightly more turns lock to lock.

couple of things, looking at doing this myself and I'd quite like to make up some kind of adjustable gearcable connector so I could set the throw reduction on a slider to any value (if you see what I mean) I guess a slot that the connector could slide in and the a nut and thread on the back could clamp it in the desired position other thing is what on earth is the OEM plastic thing all about? apart from being crap and breaking, what is the twin seal business that goes through the top of the tower, it seems pointless as the thing is clamped in place anyway? :scratch:

A mk2 golf tubular manifold and downpipe will fit the KR corrado, tuners like TSR supply them although you will have to be careful with the gear change cables on the corrado as they run very close to a downpipe and can be damaged from heat of not shielded. Threy can provide small increases in peak power but don'r expect miracles as the standard OEM 16v system is pretty good. A 50mm inlet may produce slightly higher top end bhp but it's marginal and you may get less torque from the same mod. Aftermarket cams are available from companies like kent, schrick etc but are really best as part of a tuning package with a flowed head, as they are not cheap and may not provide much of an improvement on an otherwise standard engine. Really, by far the best mod on a KR is a 2 Litre bottom end, it drops straight in with all the same ancilliaries and will give 160bhp pretty much every time with a KR head and cams, anything up to 200bhp with other mods like flowed heads, aftermarket cams and blueprinted engines.

17 years, that's some contract, makes the whole Donnington episode look like a pointless waste of everyone's time now. Even in the pre-credit-crunch days, funding what would basically have been a world class circuit and facilities from scratch looked pretty unlikely in the UK.

looks great, what size bolt is the long one, the main pivot?

yup, cause you'll be pushing the hydraulic fluid about yourself and usually PAS racks are quicker ratios than non, so that amplifies the problem.