davidwort

looks to me like they've used dark cv grease :scratch: I'd have thought it should be clear/yellowish ordinary bearing grease? it's also worth re-checking the play in the bearings/washer/nut/split pin thing after driving the car for a few days, should be fine but they can settle in a bit a need a little tightening.

good point, going left/right without the engine running will gently push the fluid about in the rack and around the system I guess

not sure what quality those would be for that price, but if you lower much more than that the front wishbones will be past the horizontal postition and handling will be adversely affected. If you just want it low, then add to the above a £25 quid set of JOM lowering front top spring plates and you'll get it down another 10mm or so. If you trawl though the suspension thread you'll get an idea of what you get for your money. viewtopic.php?f=23&t=39334 Has to be said though, cheap suspension is a false economy, you'll end up wanting to ditch it and buying something better.

you want fluid in the pump for when the engine starts, you can add a bit of fluid till it runs out of the pump the other side if you like (you'd need the pressure hose disconencted then), but the bubbles in the rack will simply disperse up to the tank with the engine running and the rack turned lock to lock. TBH, when I did mine the fluid runs straight through the pump and didn't really need priming, but it's better to make sure it has some lubrication, most important on a brand new pump I guess.

added a bit more info.

undo the lowest point in the system (fill hose to pump?) and drain the old stuff out reconnect hose and fill from header tank, prime the pump by winding pulley around by hand (need to slacken drive belt) start car, preferably with tyres off the ground and turn lock to lock, filling the tank back up if it drains down and repeating lock to lock until the system stops making a horrible droning noise, that way all the air is out of the rack check for leaks :) you might want to unscrew the pressure hose from the pump and remove the pressure valve (keep the springs and bits in the order they come out) and inspect the little gauze filter inside for crud a second drain and fill may help to clean the rack out

ah, didn't realise plastic was involved :) on the topic of impact guns, was down at the old man's garage the other week and they have a petrol driven impact gun for commercial vehicles :shock: beast of a thing, it's a bit like an industrial paving/kerb cutter but with a hoofing great drive shaft coming out the front of it, does something stupid like 450lb/ft 8)

:shock: a little bit of heat can do wonders, one or two things have led to me getting the Oxy torch on it... never admit defeat.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/8370852.stm

ignition switch is my bet too I'd change it anyway if it's original, it would be living on borrowed time anyway

Bally's valver ran a system with no suitcase, very quiet really, it's the tailbox design that makes the most difference but you will get more interior noise with a straight through pipe particularly if the rest of the system is stainless.

quite a few aftermarket systems can be bought without this silencer, although generally it will make the car a fair bit noisier inside, you can either fit a generic straight through small silencer in it's place, which won't make a huge anount of difference to the noise, but won't affect flow either, or put lots of felt/dynamat under the rear seating area, or both :)

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=84188

I know late 80's/90's VW's weren't perfect and even some of the jap cars were pretty bad in many ways, but how on earth did Rover, Ford and Vauxhall get away with those cars looking back :lol:

:lol: my dad bought one of those as a cheap run-around after smashing up his old A80, I was horrified at the way it drove, I swear it was no better than a Marina estate

set of ABF mk3 16v cams? bit higher lift than KR ones. other than that it's £££ for schricks or similar that won't be of full benefit until you flow the head this will give you an idea of the pros/cons more power/less low end torque of changing cams and headwork: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfnew_torque_runs.jpg[/attachment:cl3n29f2] new_power_runs.jpg[/attachment:cl3n29f2]

had such high quotes for what I wanted to do that I'm in the process of sorting out a big compressor and tools to do the job myself, at the moment I reckon about 600 quid on kit will give me a big air compressor that will still run on a 230V supply, spray guns and shot blasting kit as well as air tools for working on the car :D probably have a few abortions to start with but I've got plenty of spare panels to practice on :lol:

cam chain as it's pretty cheap and has to come off anyway, depends how far you want to go, could put in a new cambelt, tensionner and even a set of hydraulic tappets.

boot seal, rear light seals, sunroof drains clear? badly fitted screens and rusted front screen surrounds can also let in water and of course the door membranes that on 90% of corrados are unstcuk or torn

I connected up a SEAT and Golf 2 switch temporarily when I was changing the colour on mine, same thing IIRC, L shaped lug removed and they worked fine you could always check the connections with a test light or multimeter and make sure they operate the same as the original one

leave the intake where VW intended it to be? the mk1 GTI's had a low down pickup and occasionally destroyed the engine when driving through water try moving the outside air temp sender to the 'behind-headlight' position, I doubt you get any different a reading than from the low down position. it's probably swings and round-abouts, in the winter close to the road may be coldest, but in the summer the tarmac heating up can cause higher temps close to it

still high losses even for 4wd :scratch: that would have made the standard G60 rallye way slower than an 8v GTI, I know they were slowed by the weight but they must have got more to the ground than about 100hp :shrug: did you RR it before changing the standard manifold and downpipe?

right, well if I read the detail on your RR session right, your ABF is making less at the wheels than my standard 1.8 KR did :lol: My 2L (6A running on the 1.8 K-jet and with the milder KR cams than the ABF) is now doing 140 ATW me thinks the estimated transmission losses on that RR session are way over the top and the car is putting out nearer 140bhp at the crank.

it could be the cap on the expansion tank, if that isn't holding pressure for some reason then water will overflow out through the side of the tank and drip from underneath, the old style cap is black the new ones should be blue, slught re-design of pressure release. the hose may well be leaking though, best clean everything up and check while the engine is running and also after it's beenm standing for a few hours as sometimes small amounts of water evaporate from the engine heat while things are running.

water leaking straight into a cylinder through a break in the gasket would produce clouds of white smoke(steam) water leaking through the gasket into the oil system wouls definitely give you mayo in the sump/oil fill cap a leaking heater matrix would steam up your windows/wet carpet leaking hoses at joins usually leaves some crusty trace of dried antifreeze red or blue depending on type used leaking radiator would usually show some crusty deposits somewhere leaking heat exchanger (oil cooler) usually dumps water into the oil, so can seem like a head gasket you might also get oil in the header tank cylinder head plastic flanges (front or side) should show up crusty coolant again water pump could be leaking, this usually coincides with a very noisy pump (on the front under the alternator) the water pump thermostat flange can leak too, like the head flanges bit to go on :)