davidwort

sounds like the idle circuit isn't being triggered, does the switch under the throttle body make contact properly with the throttle shut?

someone mentioned the other day that they'd used a (non GTI or VR) mk3 golf subframe, although I think one bolt hole needed drilling, should be a very cheap alternative.

my thoughts, the 205 is about as heavy as a bean tin and the corrado is heavier on the front than a mk2, it would probably feel nice on the open road, but in practice with wider tyres, smaller steering wheels and the corrado weight it would be a pain in the arse to drive daily.

according to sealey this one is about 10CFM free air delivery and about 14 displacement, which means it should cope with just about every tool even a medium sized sand blasting gun, no way it would do a spray gun and an air fed mask though, those masks need a hoofing great industrial compressor running on 3 phase electric, I'll just have to hold my breath while painting :lol:

latest addition to the toolkit, a bargain second hand buy, nice and quiet belt drive and the biggest one I can run on a 13 amp 240V supply 8) chap I bought it from used it for spraying mustangs he restores, 6 coats of paint and 5 of laquer on the one he had in his paint booth :shock: was like looking in a mirror, beautiful motors. was ****ing heavy to lift in the back of the golf though :lol: I've got big plans for painting, blasting hammering etc :) comp.jpg[/attachment:2phpnjrj]

if the belt isn't slipping and squeeling then make sure there's no leaks along the hoses and check the fluid level in the reservoir it could be the pump, the valves insode them can stick and the little gauze filer in them clog, or it could be the rack that's at fault, the valves can stick on them and give intermittent assistance.

I've driven a C with a very small wheel and it's not great TBH, but then I have an Italvolante wheel that's about the same size as the OEM one and that feels a little big, something around 20-30mm less than the OEM ones would probably be best IMO, the C power steering is pretty heavy which is good in many ways but I don't think suits diddy-little wheels.

electrical connector in side of distributor (3 pin), sends signal to ignition module (TCI-H) on when to spark

fubar-ed hall sender? to test you need a diode test lamp probe (not a bulb test lamp -the current would be too high), connected to pins 2 and 6 on TCI-H control unit, operate starter motor and the diode should flicker.

must admit that was my first reaction to it, it's the posed ppictures at each stage of the 'operation' that made it look sus to me. it's pretty much like 'you've been framed', set up something half amusing and try to make some money out of it.

michelins tend to be good in the wet, but TBH unless it's a semi slick track tyre, tread patterns often seem to be more for looks than function.

Jim's is on 16's mine's on 15's viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19344

they just tend to be good patterns for shedding water and are usually directional tyres, what make are they?

fan run on switch, will run the rad fan even with the ignition off if the under-bonnet temp is too high

back right of head just around from the distributor no, doesn't affect ecu, just mfa temp

unfortunately I think the 9A PAS pump has the wrong hub spacing to pulley, if it was a 1.816v you might have got away with just using an ABF pulley as they have the same 52mm hub spacing on the pump

track rod inner joints will cause this, the ends may be fine as they may have been replaced, the inner joint may have play though. worn suspension top mountings will also cause this, as will very low cars (as supercharged is saying), those with big wheels and/or poor tyres. worn wishbone bushes, steering rack and steering column will all contribute too. If you don't know how to check these yourself, ask the garage to, just becasue it passes an MOT by not having excessive play in the joints doesn't mean they have checked everything that can cause this sort of behaviour, inner track rod joints in particular.

:lol: never ceases to amaze me, my mother in law can only operate the throttle and brake as switches but manages to slip the clutch all the time, also, for some reason it's the manufacturer's fault it doesn't like pulling away in 4th :brickwall:

very interested in this too, planning on having a stab at spraying in the new year myself, probably 2 pack with no laquer as that's what my early car has on it AFAIK. seems you can still buy pretty much any type of paint mail order despite what was said a couple of years back about legislation effectively banning cellulose and 2 pack.

most of this stuff you can check for play on the car, although play is often most noticeable with the weight of the car on things and driving rather than just you levering for track rod inner joints (i.e. full new track rods) just hold the rod whilst someone rocks the steering on full lock (engine off), you'll hear and feel a clonk from the inner joint (where it screws into the rack) if it has bad play top mounts, you'll really need to remove the suspension leg to check play, but if they are really bad they partially collapse and flop about as you steer from lock to lock ball joints you can lever the appropriate bits with a tyre lever, that's all the MOT guys do wishbone bushes you can see breaking up front wheel bearings tend to make a horrid noise before they get play in them the steering colum play is usually felt with clonks on the column when turning and general paly in the height adjuster mechanism

sounds to me like a combination of wobbly suspension top mounts, tired valves in the PAS rack and possibly track rods with play in the joints. have you had anything like wishbone bushes and bottom ball joints ever done on the car?

K-jet can deliver a lot of fuel :) it might not meter it very well for the top end, tends to lean out, but it can easily deliver enough fuel for 200bhp, all you need is a 16v that will rev to 8,500 rpm :lol:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78232&p=907912&hilit=injector+spray#p907912

there's no blue temp sensor like on 8v cars, the 16v has 3 identical sensors on the side of the head feeding gauge, ecu and idle control unit IIRC.

there's a lot you can check, correct resistance across the electrical connector on the warm up regulator, cold start injector, vacuum lines, throttle idle switch and so on. for starters ISV should measure 3.5 to 4.5 ohms across terminals warm up valve resistance (it has an internal heating element) should be 20-26 ohms to check control pressure of fuel from warm up regulator you need the appropriate unions and a fuel pressure test gauge, but after 2.5 to 3 mins control pressure should increase to 3.4 to 3.8 bar it should be about 1.7 bar on a cold engine with 20 degree ambient temp ecu temp sensor (small ones on side of head) should read 2,500 ohms at 0 deg C dropping to 100 Ohms by the time the engine is fully warm if you're happy the ignition side of things are all new/claen and operating correctly, I'd also check ignition advance and timing just so you know everything is OK idle CO should be about 1.5%