davidwort

I think the main tip is to refill very slowly (into the expansion tank), this helps prevent airlocks, it needs to dribble in really slow, take 5-10 minutes over it, and mix the coolant and water first and add a litre at a time, then you know exactly how much has gone in and how much more will be needed if you do get an airlock. Once you've got all you can get in, hopefully at least 4 or five litres before the header tank doesn't drain down any more, then run the car till warm/thermostat has opened fully (wait till fan comes on), let it cool pretty much fully and it should expell any air into the expansion tank, i.e. the coolant level will drop a bit, it shouldn't need more than a cupfull if you originally refilled slowly. If you rush it you can get big airlocks that can be a bugger to remove.

no, no, I can live without Irwins... I can. Just 'cause you've all got Irwins.

get a big bastid drill on it and hack the top off the bolt, Irwins are for :camp:

Thing is though there is so little margin in those kinds of cars I'm just wondering where the manufacturer's £1000 is going to come from.... my guess is that models that don't have the margin in them will amazingly become unavailable and as you've said already I bet a load of other 'discounts' on list prices will disappear pronto. this is such a stab in the dark, it could end up creating a blip that then leads to another dip which is not going to help anyone, but it's obviously aimed as a blip that coincides with the general election :roll:

your cable is too tight for full throttle, slacken the adjustment of the cable (just before the trottle body) and move the throttle to the fully open position, reset the cable adjustment at that position. It shouldn't pull on the throttle at idle and equally make full throttle before your foot is to the floor, can't remember, isn't there an adjustable stop on the floor under the trottle pedal too?

err, it's not 2K it's 1K. the dealer/manfr is expected to discount new cars by a grand to match the grand the Government(taxpayer) are putting up. So what's new, they would have offered discounts on the forecourt anyway, so that 2K figure is total spin.

I think late 8v's (golf 2's and Corrados) used the same type of mount as the 16v and G60 Corrado, as long as you have the Corrado subframe and block-to-mounting alloy bracket to match the mount being used, you should be fine. The engine munting part number seems to be the same for all 4 cyl corrados, so basically use all the 8v bits and you will be fine. I've heard people modifying the mount and/or bracket to drop the ABF engine by the amount the block is taller than a KR/9A to avoid any exhaust fouling issues from the taller ABF block. But you might get away with it, the head will only be about 15mm higher than on a KR/9A.

that's roughly the same spec as the VAG fully synthetic, they usually work out about the same price as you usually have to factor in a bit of postage on the Redline stuff. Dealers don't usually stock the VW fully synth, they have to order it in and it can take a while.

TBH I don't think there's much they can do, European law ties their hands at doing anything protectionist or directed at UK companies specifically. Bottom line is, they couldn't do much to stop us getting into the current mess and can't do much to help us get out of it. Things will gradually improve but expect a very different decade to the last, more tax and lots of cuts coming in the years ahead whoever 'manages' the country, I just don't think the average bod in the street has worked this out yet. Oh, and buy a 4x4 if you do go for this scheme, you're going to need it the state the roads will be in soon :lol:

my mk4 golf hated that stuff so much it would barely change gear once the box warmed up, but both that and the C like the VW fully synthetic very much.

what a waste of time :roll: that 2 grand per car has got to come from somewhere, 2p on fuel in September then another 1p at the end of December should just about cover it :mad2: just who voted for these muppets anyway?

:help:

angle grinder! :shock: I've always carefully hand filed them clean of built up rust :lol:

just done exactly the same job on my valver, even from just a tiny slit in the boot the whole lot sprayed out everywhere, lovely mess isn't it? Do you need to use and extension when doing the hub nut?, I found that even a short socket and breaker bar head was enough to clear my wheel, perhaps because of the wheel design? - Borbet C. Had to stand and bounce on the breaker bar though :lol: and I only did that nut up over the winter so it's not like it had been on for years.

cheers Jim, think I've peered at the connectors before but never really carefully and not recently, and apologies to Supercharged, it wizzed up the gauge and flashed all the way to work this morning soon after the engine started to warm up.

I knew I'd find another use for my tube of no-more-nails on the Corrado :)

cheers mate, will attack the old passat dash I have, I'm sure the temp gauge is the same. :lol: about the wallet, I know it's not funny really, but it's the way you recount things :) reminds me of one morning I drove off to work leaving my rucksack on the drive, wallet, work pass etc in it, fortunately when I realised and drove the 20 miles back again it was still sat on the drive all on it's own :clap:

wot was it then?

somtimes yes, sometimes no, I've had mine flash and the gauge rise and then drop of it's own accord, oil temp doesn't change and I loose no coolant and I've never run the engine on anything other than distilled water, def no airlock, it also still does it with a new VAG header tank and when switching the temp sensors around on the side of the head :scratch: I'm down to wiring or the gauge itself, I found a round VDO temp gauge the other day, so might try that before stripping the dash, I assume a short would give a max gauge reading and flashing LED?

That's build date maybe, not first registered/sold date, as my Nov 1990 (first registered) has mechanical clocks.

A lot of difference, unfortunately you can't just bolt on the G60 head and charger.

isofix might be a good idea in theory, it also helps prevent poor fitting, but the seats are usually twice the price and not transferable to any non-isofix car.

did you try the ignition OFF/ON again trick?

it's just a breather unit (breather assy. on ETKA) I'm using a KR hose (from the metal type of KR housing) on a 9A plastic unit, they are the same diameter outlet 027 103 772 A (metal type to 9A, chassis 50-M-021 000) (KR to chassis 50-M-035 000) 048 103 772 (9A after 50-M-021 001) (KR after 50-N-000 001) also golf ABF, 2E passat, 048 103 772C on AAM, ABS, ADZ, 2E, ADY, AEK engines, this might have the different diameter :( never seen a late type on a KR or an early on a 9A though?

HTH, from ETKA: CDA 1st 33/10 2nd 35/18 3rd 34/26 4th 35/34 5th 36/43 FD, not sure, should be about 70:18 but all I can find is drive shaft listed as (teeth) z=10+18 for comparison corrado boxes are 9+19 or 9/17 depending on build date with only CHN? being 10/18 CTM 1st 34/9 2nd 36/17 3rd 35/24 4th 35/34 5th 36/43 FD 9+17