davidwort

don't think it works like that Jim, you need to have owned the old car for a while before being eligible for the scheme. It's a stupid knee-jerk reaction by our goverment (again), just think in a year or so's time when (just like the VAT) the scheme ends, car sales volumes will drop again, we'll still be in the recession and the Government will have spent a shed load on helping people buy cars they would have bought anyway eventually. It might buy a couple of votes for the next election who knows?

Don't start fiddling with the CO screw if something else is likely to be the problem :) You need to check the Warm Up Regulator is operating correctly and the thermo timeswitch on the right of the head is OK, I think Haynes has the correct resistances for these. Check the Cold Start Valve isn't leaking or running when it should be off. Could also be ropey injectors, wouldn't harm pulling them and checking the spray pattern.

Changed my nearside outer CV boot yesterday (again, after a few weeks) as something had put a couple of small slits in the widest part and grease had sprayed out everywhere :roll: Thought I'd pop into GSF and get a new boot kit so wrote down what I reckoned was the correct VW part no. from ETKA, seems to be a couple listed, roughly pre and post 1990. When I compared the new boot to the one I'd just removed they were basically the same, but the GKN one from GSF has an extra raised band of rubber at the widest part on the outside of the boot, all dimensions and lip shape over the CV joint are the same. Chap from GSF said he'd never have found the part without the VW number as they hadn't got it listed for the Corrado. It fitted up fine but the kit contains a part I just have no idea about: cv-bits.jpg[/attachment:2rb915fi] Anyone got any ideas? I'm convinced the boots are basically the same over most of the Golf 2's and probably other 4 cyl VW's, but some of the small parts in the kits may be why there are different VW part numbers. Strange thing is I've used generic pattern VW boot kits before and they've always fitted up fine, just don't remember this odd circlip thing, which I don't seem to need anyway :scratch:

the part you need for a 9A: pretty much any 2L VW block and even smaller engines after about 1992, mine for my 6A/9A came off a 1.6 SEAT engine.

rarer than a very very rare thing, major sleeper too, I like :D

3rd cv joint boot in as many months as one new one has aquired a small knick from something and splattered cv grease all round the arch and hub :bad-words:

1.8 16V I assume? vacuum leaks are a favourite at idle as the manifold vacuum is at it's highest, you need to check there's no leaks in the various vacuum pipes (the rubber connectors), and the rubber connecting section of the intake system from airbox to throttle body can split and cause varying idle problems as the splits open and close as the engine moves and vibrates, some carb celaner or WD 40 spray around the area should affect the revs as it gets sucked in to any leak. Also, make sure your throttle cable is nice and smooth and the throttle idle circuit switch is being pressed as the throttle shuts at idle. If it does click shut, then check it is actually making a circuit (it's at the front/underside of the throttle body with 2 pin connector)

as aide says you need to check if water is flowing around the radiator to check if the stat is stuck shut or not, if the radiator and bottom hose get warmish fairly quickly then you need to make sure the fan is coming on at the two speeds correctly, should be speed one at around 95 degrees and speed two if it get up to about 103, IIRC. old radiators can sometimes get partially blocked with crud and can benefit from a flush out, but it's usually the fan switch or stat that is the culprit.

I reckon the rectangular end of the shift cable at the gearbox end has bust, only fix is a new cable. If you go for a 2nd hand cable try to get the type with the oval alloy end rather than the usual rectangular end with the rectangular rubber bush in it, stronger and less play in the bushing. poss useful threads: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=55679&hilit=nylon+bush

I take it we're leaving the roccos for Eric :) Oh, and I'll have the soft top C.

makes you realise what a sales failure the Corrado was, compare the production figures with the mk1 & 2 rocco.

:nono: the cam bearing caps are line bored when the head is made, you don't want to get them muddled up still all good experience I guess, I managed to miss time a valver once when I had no idea how engine timing worked and bent 4 valves when I started it :epicfail: still I can laugh about it now, but at the time major :bad-words: :mad2:

:( looks like another heater matrix has gone.

???? are the valves hitting the pistons? is it timed up with the cam belt on? you'll want to very carefully get a stud extractor in that broken stud if it wont unscrew easily with grips on it, did you torque them up correctly?

when we were at the factory they said they had all the Corrado body panel press mouldings still, basically all you need to reproduce a new Corrado shell, hope they don't go for scrap.

think the passat has a separate bush in each side of the beam mounting, so two each side, I guess the whole thing is a bit beefier than the Corrado.

there's quite a large range of 1.8T engines for different car and model years, but IIRC it goes something like this: early (passat) non DBW (drive by wire) 150bhp (AGU?) and early audi A4/A6 early mk4 golfs (150) later mk4's, leons, octavias, A4/A6/TT with DBW 150bhp late golfs/leons/octavia/TT VRS 150/180 (same DBW engine and turbo but different VW mapping) then the bigger power 210-225 bhp leon cupra R, Audi S3, TT A late 150 1.8T can be happily mapped to IRO 195bhp (REVO etc) and about the same for 180 engines earlier cars can't be mapped quite as high 210-225 engines are stronger and come with bigger turbos etc as standard, so with just a remap can go well above 250.

the nicest seats I've seen in the C are Recaros in various flavours, you certainly used to be able to buy them new as a separate individual item, they have much bigger bolsters than the fairly good standrd VW ones, a brand new pair would be spot on IMO.

far more fuel circulates in the system back to the tank than the engine actually needs, this helps keep the fuel at a low temperature while the engine is running, problems occur when you stop the engine as heat build up in the fuel lines can cause the fuel vapourisation, that's why it would run fine once it's going, but struggle initially. I get similar, although much less serious, lumpy running sometimes on warm starts, but that's mainly due to slightly tired old injectors.

good time to do it, but you don't have too, takes a fair few miles to bed in new pads, especially if the disks are old

they're only paper/fibre type gaskets and will probably tear as you remove the breather unit, cheap-ish from VW though. AFAIK the alloy ones were the type used on the 1.8 KR and the black plastic ones are for the 2L blocks, if you compare the two they are a different fitment as the 2L blocks have a different ('bent top') to the oil filter housing mounting face. it should come free fine if you lever it at the right point, that tab on the far left that Yan pointed out oh, and there's a rubber 'o' ring too at the left hand end

sounds like the dreaded failed matrix, it could be some problem with your cooling system that has caused the weakest point to fail each time though?

try lifting the bonnet when you stop, keeping the engine bay cool, and see if that makes a difference to the starting, the fan run on switch should have a black wire that comes from the engine loom on the left hand inner wing area, that's if the car ever had one when it was built? old tired injectors can cause funny starting issues too, they don't have to leak, just have poor fuel delivery and spray pattern at idle speed, worth pulling them, and spraying them into jars to check the spray pattern and flow rate see here

does the fan run-on work OK? triggered by the little switch on the front left of the cam cover, this is intended to keep engine bay temps down to prevent fuel vapourising in the fuel lines causing exactly the problem you describe. I believe the pressure accumulator should do a similar thing, by keeping the system pressure up, you also need to check the pressure the system is maintaining after engine-off for the specified period - which unfortunately I don't have the figures for, you should be OK with that though, as you've replaced it. I don't think it's the WUR from your description.

are the late hangars in a different position on the underside of the car? would like to change to the bar type hangars but I've got a feeling you can't just bolt up the parts in place of the early ones.