davidwort

found a disconnected vacuum pipe under the throttle body, plugged that back together, no wonder I was getting odd mpg readings on the MFA and some wierd idling :)

I don't reckon your gearbox mount will solve your problems, but I also found it a bit of a struggle to get that mount changed, I think the nuts are awkward to get at IIRC. changing rear and gearbox mounts on mine was pretty pointless, even at 150,000 miles, it's the front that takes all the strain on power take up.

they all are? they look the same as the 3 on a valver head, single connector, black top, in which case they are all the same part number, just provide a signal to different sytems, gauge, ECU, idle control unit.

yeah, the thin one that holds the heat exchanger in place, definitely did it with a spanner, might have been a random angle bodge of an approach though :lol:

I think there's a screw under the little yellow plug on the pipework end, I think I'd read it was just for the closing position though??

like I said earlier today mate at the AGM, I've reused bolts before with no problem and on the valver on which the head gets hotter than an 8v too. I'm a penny pincher and I'd say leave it :) I've spoken to mechanics about this before and it seems you can get away with re-torquing those VW headbolts a second time, if you were going to have trouble it's most likely it would have already happened on the 2nd stretching :)

is that a polo GT wheel then?

:) all I could remember was using an adjustable spanner

I think a knackered alternator can actually drain the battery, depends on what's gone on it, if the diodes are fubar'd then it may well be draining, does it get warm at all all by itself, like overnight?

it's not a reason for totally avoiding the car, providing you're happy with getting your fingers a bit greasy. there's a number of things that go wrong with the corrado's cable change setup, but they can be pretty good if set up right. from what I can remember: 1. circlip can pop off pivot under gearlever cover - makes reverse hard to get 2. plastic selector cable connector on top of gearbox tower can crack (couple of quid) 3. bushes on mech under gearlever wear (few quid for all bits from VW) 4. gearlever selector plate parts can actually crack leading to really odd on/off selection problems 5. misalignment of cables from people messing about with fixings 6. poor lubrication/cleanliness of shift components on top of gearbox 7. worn plastic gearlever guide (x shaped part that is on bottom of lever) few quid from VW 8. torsion spring weak under gearlever, can be bent into a tightly sprung position in neutral again failing that a mk4 shift tower and gearlever selector mech is do-able and a much better design

:lol: from experience I agree, it's impossible (remembers the level crossing closing when we were in Germany in Sept)

is that eligible for a government grant? or do you have to be over 60?

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/ http://www.exchangeandmart.co.uk/iad/carinput http://www.fiestabreakers.co.uk http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford2/inde ... wforum=136

that's not a golf tailpipe or something is it?

if you go by 110bhp at the wheels, then you'll get a more accurate comparison if you have it rolling roaded at any future point.

any particular reason for fitting carbs? for more tuning potential I'd have thought full EFI with something like megasquirt would be better, and throttle bodies if it's going to be built for >200bhp. There's a fair few 16v's on over 190bhp with the original K-jet too.

are you sure it's a polo 1.6, I thought the felicias had the last of the agricultural based skoda engines :)

I've used expanding foam once, not on the car thank god, but the house, I'll never touch the stuff again, took me a week to get the stuff off me :lol:

a bit of b'rown bread' or 'dynamat 'in the doors makes a whole lot of difference noise wise and is only going to add a kilo or so to the cars weight, if you're really worried I did buy some stuff once that was a lightweight plastic sound deadener, can't remember the name, it was OK but not quite the performance of the heftier dynamat type stuff.

err, the reviewer says it is a chrysler van rebadged :) commentary cracks me up, sounds like a kitchen multi-blender ad on a shopping channel :lol:

ideally you want an OEM type sender, made by VDO, this will have the correct thread, both the pressure gauge sender and you existing pressure warning switches have the values stamped onto the bottom of them, something like 0.3 bar and 1.2 bar for low and high, it's not actually high really BTW, it's a warning for low pressure at over 2000rpm as opposed to idle (0.3 bar one) This is the VDO type sender, several are available, 0-10 bar or 0-5 bar and some replace the 0.3 bar warning switch, others the higher value switch gauge.jpg[/attachment:bdezbtgr]

ideally you need a narrow hex bit (4 or 5mm?) to get at the allen head bolts that hold it on, you may need to remove the filter to get at them all but I don't think so. Make sure the hex heads are clean and you use a proper hex bit, not just an allen key, becasue if you round the hex's off they'll be a real PITA.

you can use either a brass screw in T piece that gives you 2 more threads, or a pressure sender with 2 connections that replaces one of your existing oil pressure warning switches on the filter housing.

there's some pretty tired rusty old Corrados knocking around now, if you took two cars, a tidy well cared for C with good bodywork and some of the tatty sheds I've seen about, then for the same age car of the same model 2 or 3 grand is definitely a sensible price difference between them. A rusty tatty valver is only worth what it can be sold for in bits and a VR could well cost you 2 or 3 grand for an engine rebuild on top of 1-2 grand for a respray, you pays your money...

for the price I'd consider buying a reducing elbow, alloy connector and straight hose from SFS, I've made up a complete hose kit for my valver like this, and it ends up being nicer looking and a whole lot cheaper than VAG hoses.