davidwort

tell the dimwit to pass the keyboard to someone who can work the parts program, it's not that difficult to find parts even if they have been superceeded, it's not like you didn't give him the car model and part description :roll: (did you?) :)

or a turkey baster with a length of tube on the end to suck it out :) it sits in nice little globules at the bottom of the tank, quite easy to spot.

as said, those (Bowden?) cables do wear inside, much like throttle cables or bike cables, and get stiff as the do.

I guess you just pop off the clamp and then turn the control unit around a bit (90 deg?) so the end of the cable can slide off the lever more easily.

the allen head jobbies are M10x1mm thread 25x20 splash shield ones to hub/axle are M10x24

check out what GSF have if you have a local branch, I'm sure someone said they bought one from there and it was a Valeo item made a year or so ago, in which case it should be the same as the VW part :thumbleft:

Jim, just realised reading your C-GTI thread, the Corrado inspection cover for the tank is in the boot, not under the rear seat, I was still thinking about doing the job on my mk1 when I wrote that :lol: , anyway wherever it is, look for the round black hatch 15cm or so across with 3 or 4 phillips screws holding it down :)

get it scanned for fault codes, could be the lambda probe is shot.

about in the middle setting, but you can space it down with washers to the desired level :)

again, Club GTI have a fair bit of info on this if you dig around, the basic gist is a 50mm will give slightly better power on an engine with a flowed head and high lift cams at the very top end, but on a standard motor, even with the KR inlet cam a 42mm will provide better torque pretty much throughout the rev range. I'd recommend a ported and polished lower half of a 42mm inlet with a flowed head, perfectly adequate for this: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf127-2746_1024img.jpg[/attachment:2q9kzt6v] before and after fuelling and ignition rolling road setup 127-2747_1024img.jpg[/attachment:2q9kzt6v]

do a search, there's at least one thread somewhere on how to loosen the power steering pump and remove the belt

not nece-cellery, my old mk1 gti (K-jet too) got water in the tank from a rusty filler neck, once the water was out it ran fine, even though water was in the system for ages, at least you know it was done recently, probably no damage, but if water sat in the metering head for months then corrosion would eventually do for it.

Jim, just spoke to my dad and described what you've done, he firstly said fuel pump, damp causing it to short - what we've thought already and then secondly he reckoned (less likely) that water has got into the tank through the tank breather system. get the seat in the back up, remove the tank lid thing in the floor, remove the tank cap (not sure if the float is attached to that) and peer in with a torch to see if there's any globs of water rolling about in the bottom of the tank, pickup is from the bottom, water sinks in fuel, so it would get sucked right into the system.

just check the voltage with the engine running, if it's over 13.5 to 14V then the voltage regulator is shot, should be less than 20 quid for a replacement for the bosch alt. If it's under that voltage then a diode or two may have died, which means a new alternator.

providing that's the way they're connected to the head unit :)

knackered top mounts will make it wander all over the place, not that expensive to replace, I reckon they're an item that should be changed every five years, especially the early types.

head recon won't make any difference to performance, by that I mean negative, as it doesn't need to be run in like a bottom end rebuild. I reckon you've got dodgy injectors, you need to pull them, disconnect the dizzy and crank it over lifting the air plate in the metering head, spray each injector into a jar and see how much fuel and how good the spray pattern is. The cold weather kills economy on the 16v too, especially the 1.8. Edit: Actually far better to remove the fuel pump relay, bridge the main terminals for it on the fuse board and run the fuel pump like that, then there's no need to crank the engine and you can switch it on/off by connecting and disconnecting the battery negative, with one 1L bottle strapped to each injector you'll get about 250ml of fuel in each in a minute with the metering flap wedged fully open, that should give enough time for you to clearly see how good the spray pattern is on each injector and also compare output from each injector, the amount in each bottle should be identical.

It does make quite a difference, even with standard KR cams, back to back plots with a standard 2L and you can see the power plot pull away the higher the revs get, if done well it makes an improvement throughout the rev range with the most at peak power, probably around 10-15% gain in power and torque at the top end. It also makes the car run more efficiently if the fuelling is set up properly so you get slightly better MPG.

don't think so, Ideally the film should be a complete barrier and have no holes in it, some of the VW ones I've seen have a sort of box area in the membrane that sticks into the door to cover the back of the speaker, I just cut a hole in the sheet and duck taped a wider piece of plastic to the back of the hole, so it covered well past the sides of the hole I'd cut.

stick your location in your Profile and your model/year of car in your sig, helps everyone know a little before answering postsmode> :D

you cant get 288 disks in 4 stud, so you need G60/VR6 280mm calipers and caliper carriers + 280mm G60 disks, or some other aftermarket setup if you want to go bigger. rear disks are one of the first things I did myself on my first car, not difficult but it helps to have someone to advise/ask for help :)

you don't say 1.8 or 2.0L but that's not really an issue, all the 16v heads are much the same, possibly the MK3 golf ABF heads are a little better from the factory but minimal, they have slightly different valvegear and cams. You could just have your head refurbed and perhaps a little porting and polishing while it's stripped, you won't get much more torque from even extensive headwork (gas-flowing) perhaps a few %, and expect about 10% more torque by going from a 1.8 block (KR) to a 2L block (9A, 6A, ACE or ABF). It all depends on how much you are willing to spend and how long you plan to run/keep the car. It's going to be over 500 quid to rebuild and gasflow a 16v head, so you have to consider just buying a mk3 16v ABF complete engine as you could probably get a lowish mileage one for less than that, certainly one with a good 50K miles left on it.

I made a flap that hangs behind the speaker to shed any water away, problem is the doors, pods and membranes weren't designed for deeper speaker magnets. One other thing to note is the stupid design of the door pressing where the membrane should be glued, it has small drain holes along the bottom edge of the bottom cutout in the inner door skin, the sealant/glue you use needs to be precisely located or the bottom part of the membrane will catch water and it will sit there, eventually finding a way into the car. You can see why VW eventually went to the bolt in panels in the mk4, better in every way - except weight!

It's just a straight swap, it's basically just nuts and bolts, everything fits, although the block of an ABF/ACE is slightly taller (if you use one of those) and I'm not totally sure what clearance you get with the standad manifold and downpipe. Club GTI is the place to look, loads of info on putting 2L blocks into 1.8 GTIs in there, basically an identical job in a 1.8 16v C.

the clips can be a fiddle but the filter should just fit with the metering head lifted up a few cms, you need thre hands but shouldn't need to undo anything else, new cars aren't any better, my golf has about 12 philips screws that have to be undone to split the engine cover in half it makes what should be a 5 minute job take half an hour, just ridiculous.